McCulloch Chain Saws

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Bar plates are 10 Series and the recoil spring is from a large frame McCulloch saw, AV mounts are McC 10 Series.

There is one 92818 seal/gasket for the 10 Series automatic oil pump, one oil pump, two clutches that work on the LH start 10 Series or 600 Series saws.

2 insulators are from the 54cc 10 Ser saws, one is from a 600 Ser, and the one goes under the carburetor on the 10 Ser rigid saws.

Mark
So, something useful?
beer$ and freight…
 
I bought this little 2.3 Wildcat about 1 1/2 yrs.ago.I put a new fuel filter in & it wouldn't run,so I set it aside thinking it needed a carb reuild.Today I came across the saw while looking for another & got to it again.I tried starting it with fresh fuel in it & it was a no go.Something told me to try a Zama filter & wouldn't ya know it took off.It runs great after adjusting the carb & it oils well too,but the chain runs continuously while idling.I pulled the chain brake off to have a look at the clutch & couldn't find a thing wrong.The shoes are in good shape,the spring is in one piece,& the drum spins freely.Any ideas as to why the chain spins constantly?
Intact but weak spring?
 
I cleaned up the exterior of the 1-61 today. It was dirty enough to fill the filter sock on the parts washer at work twice. The bottom rear of the engine was covered in ancient oil, which makes me think the gear case has leaked out over the years. How hard is it to split the gear case if I were going to install a new gasket? Do I pull the gear case off as a unit first, or just the outer housing? Cut a gasket or use RTV? Similar question for the gas tank. What kind of gasket would give me the longest life? And what joins the carb to the intake? Is it a rubber boot or is it just a machined surface?
 
My Dad used to supply parts to Bob back in the ‘70s for McCulloch. He was the distributor of McCulloch for all of NY and northern PA. I remember the first time I saw a McCulloch with the red, white, and blue on her side. I was lit up with excitement. My dad said “ that’s the biggest saw they make”. I actually got to drive a factory racing cart as well. Went to
Los Angeles took a tour of the factory. 1970 or 71 can’t remember.
Did he supply payne brothers in Hailesboro NY?
 
Also, does anyone have any tips for getting the chainbrake back together? I've done it before a couple of years ago. From memory the bent part of the spring goes into the bottom of the latch, then the pin in the brake arm engages with the top of the latch...
I just fixed it, it was much easier to fit the bent end of the spring into the latch LAST otherwise the latch is forced down which makes it hard to get the pin of the brake arm engaged.
 
I did 3 or 4 of the chain brakes on the 600 series saws & I know they're not an easy task.Bob Johnson showed me how to do 'em & he made it look so damn easy,Lol.I had one this past winter that fought me tooth & nail.Every time I'd bring the brake lever around to engage the brake & lock it in place the spring would jump outta place.I finally got it though after much perserverence.The brake came on a Timber Bear IIRC.
 
Yeah it would be much easier with three hands.
If you do it with the cover off the saw you can push the end of the brake band further out so you have less distance to go. Having the bolt that the arm pivots on only in a couple of turns gives more wriggle room too.

I watched a couple of videos of others doing it which showed me the correct way everything fits (and how frustrating they can be). Doing it the way I did in the end however only took a few seconds.
Perhaps I should make my own video. 🤔
That would mean undoing it again though. 😂
 
Yeah it would be much easier with three hands.
If you do it with the cover off the saw you can push the end of the brake band further out so you have less distance to go. Having the bolt that the arm pivots on only in a couple of turns gives more wriggle room too.

I watched a couple of videos of others doing it which showed me the correct way everything fits (and how frustrating they can be). Doing it the way I did in the end however only took a few seconds.
Perhaps I should make my own video. 🤔
That would mean undoing it again though. 😂
Come on go for it, just think of all the people you'd be helping and then we can make fun of it
Na we wont do that !!!
ha ha doctor GIF by I'm A Celebrity... Get Me Out Of Here! Australia
 
Tim - I use some 009 o-rings and Dirko.

Breckenridge - I normally take the whole gear case off the saw if I need to work on one. I have NOS gaskets if you decide to pull your case apart. I have not had any 1-6X fuel tanks opened up but I suspect you will find it is no easy task to get the 1/2's separated. I checked and I do not have any fuel tank gaskets for those saws.

There is an adapter and two gaskets between the carburetor and the mounting flange in the air box.

1689038259149.png

Syncop8r - I made a tool from a piece of 1/4" steel rod with a hole drilled in the end to fit over the spring. Makes it must easier to wind the spring far enough slip behind the pin and roller on the brake handle.

Mark
 
Breckenridge - I normally take the whole gear case off the saw if I need to work on one. I have NOS gaskets if you decide to pull your case apart. I have not had any 1-6X fuel tanks opened up but I suspect you will find it is no easy task to get the 1/2's separated. I checked and I do not have any fuel tank gaskets for those saws.

There is an adapter and two gaskets between the carburetor and the mounting flange in the air box.

View attachment 1096398

Mark
Thank you Mark. I would gladly buy those gaskets off you. Just PM me the details. No question the case has been leaking. There's no mistaking the sticky, stinks to hell buildup all over the underside of the motor. I have almost everything else torn off and the gearbox is the next step. I assume I will have to remove the clutch assembly? Is the clutch supposed to run "wet", or is that just because of the gaskets?
 
Well I split the fuel tank, removed the tank, carb, rear handle/carb box. The piston looked perfect. A little roasty brown on top. The piston still had oil on it and moved easy.
 

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On the bigger gear drive saws the clutch is "wet", that is runs in the oil bath with the gear set.

On the 650/660 gear drives the clutch is external and runs dry, in fact it is the same clutch as the one used on other 80 cc front tank saws.

Send a private message with your email and I will send a list of what I have available.

Mark
 
While in the barn today searching for a Poulan saw (sorry guys) I came across an E.B.2.0 with a 10 in.bar on it.I haven't had that saw fired up in probably 4 yrs.I fueled it up & pulled it over 15 times - my limit before I prime it,& it didn't fire up.I gave it a prime & away it went.I shut it down & put the AF cover on & tried to start it again & the rope stayed out.The spring deciderd to pop out of it's notch,so I got lucky & was able to pop it back in place & re-tension it.It fired right back up again.That little saw sounds just like it's big brothers - mean,Lol.Funny story about that little guy - I got it in a truckload of saws about 4 1/2 yrs.ago & there was a tag on it that said "DOA".I put a new plug in it & it's been running since then.This is how a saw shop works nowadays,too freakin' lazy to fix the old saw.Just so easy to sell the unknowing customer a new Stihl or Husky.
 
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