McCulloch Chain Saws

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Pretty sure the one with the cam (that he removed) is made to use points, and the other (no cam) is electronic ignition, so he had to swap to a chip for timing.
Ahh was thinking something else.

Glad to hear you finally got the oiling issue sorted Jethro!

Thanks Ed đź‘Ť can't believe this whole time that was the issue and I never noticed it underneath the tank
 
The old saying goes....necessity is the mother of invention..When you don't have access to parts like we do here in the States,ya gotta be inventive.
Pretty much Ed. It's crazy expensive shipping and seemed worth a try and works well. I keep forgetting to find a single thick piece of rubber. Be much nicer than the stack but was all I had at the time
 
Nice saw. I check out the pictures of projects and these Mac’s used a variety of mufflers in the 10 series. I have the flat Stryker with the same baffle as yours, the muffler with the small opening baffle, and the Reed flat style. Was any one of these mufflers better than the others?
Apologies if I’m screwing up this sticky with questions. Pig
The most open muffler is the best, in my opinion.
 
The most open muffler is the best, in my opinion.
Thank you. I picked this one up cheap, self muffler modded I think, I gave it the usual Mac clean out and parts and it cuts great. How Buckin Billy makes his 54cc saws with 28” cut like they do is mystery to me. I’m gonna give this one a touch up sharpen and back to the firewood pile. Oils real good.
 

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Thank you. I picked this one up cheap, self muffler modded I think, I gave it the usual Mac clean out and parts and it cuts great. How Buckin Billy makes his 54cc saws with 28” cut like they do is mystery to me. I’m gonna give this one a touch up sharpen and back to the firewood pile. Oils real good.
A razor sharp chain , does wonders for the performance of any saw in hand , đź‘Ť
 
I beg to differ on the no key way on the crank statement.I bought my 1st 7-10 about 5 yrs.ago & when I went to do a test cut the chain stopped.I took the clutch off to find it was missing the woodruff key
Is it a RH start 7-10 (10- serial number with the DSP)? In my brain I typed a statement about the 10- serial number 7-10s that were what I thought were 6-10s with a LH starter (I have one). Apparantly it never made it to my fingers. I did some research through the IPLs and discovered that the 1/2/3/4/5-10s, 10- 7-10s, the RH start 10-10s, CP-55/70 and the 3/5/10-10Es (basically all pre 71 10 series EXCEPT the 6-10) used the 63336 crank shaft with 63429 ball bearing. The 6-10s used the 85125 crank with the 63429B ball bearing. the LH start 7/10-10s used a 87699 crank with the 63429B ball bearing. The 6-10s were in production until 6/72, so I would suspect a few cranks made their way into production after that. I know that my 3 LH start 7-10s do not have the key way on the clutch side and none of the IPLs for the left hand start saws call for a key. But there are always saws that have been rebuilt/created with what was available. And then there is my Right Hand start SP-80....
 
Thanks Rocker,
I have another mutt I’m playing with, broken off tag
No DSP or button. Black one piece top tank with idle provision only, takes the flat air filter.
Handle is quite tall.
RH start
Reed flat muffler
Cleaned points and it sparks
Piston and cyl borderline ok looking. Many treatments of marvel and premix gas to flush some brown stuff from crankcase. Rings free, move a bit in piston groove
Gave it a fuel line and it started 2nd pull, ran, revved, quit. Airbox swamped with fuel.
I’m gonna pull and seal the tank and rebuild carb and maybe have another runner, probably 54cc, lol.
These ol macs are pretty tough.
Sounds like a Super 10-10 (54cc). From what I can tell, the flat mufflers only fit the 10-10 and 57cc saws. You can force one on a 1/2/3-10 with multiple gaskets, but there is no boss for the third screw. My observation is the Super referred to the marginally larger gas tank with the provision for a flat air filter (and it looks cooler). Performance was the same for the given model. It seemed to morph into the Pro and ProMac kit. RH starts have the keyed crank/clutch. I guess some Mongos could pull hard enough to cause the clutch to slip and gall the taper if they didn't get their candygrams....
 
Is it a RH start 7-10 (10- serial number with the DSP)? In my brain I typed a statement about the 10- serial number 7-10s that were what I thought were 6-10s with a LH starter (I have one). Apparantly it never made it to my fingers. I did some research through the IPLs and discovered that the 1/2/3/4/5-10s, 10- 7-10s, the RH start 10-10s, CP-55/70 and the 3/5/10-10Es (basically all pre 71 10 series EXCEPT the 6-10) used the 63336 crank shaft with 63429 ball bearing. The 6-10s used the 85125 crank with the 63429B ball bearing. the LH start 7/10-10s used a 87699 crank with the 63429B ball bearing. The 6-10s were in production until 6/72, so I would suspect a few cranks made their way into production after that. I know that my 3 LH start 7-10s do not have the key way on the clutch side and none of the IPLs for the left hand start saws call for a key. But there are always saws that have been rebuilt/created with what was available. And then there is my Right Hand start SP-80....
I'm finding as time goes on that Mac didn't throw much away when it came to leftover parts from one model to the next.If there were cranks left from a 6-10 they found a way to utilize them in the 7-10 ( as an example).
 
Gents there is a former small engine shop advertising nos stuff on marketplace. Says he has Mac stuff but needs part numbers to see if he has anything we would be interested in. He may sell as a lot of someone was interested. I may go get some stuff if it's a reasonable distance and if course would pick up something for one of y'all if there was something you wanted. Will see if I can copy the ad and put it in here. Not too hopeful tho given my lack of tech skills.
 

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