Bar slot spacers,I’m not sure what the two little medal loop are for on the bar bolt? Not sure if I need them thought it was a spacer. I can’t find it in the IPC.
If you're not able to secure the choke you must be missing the stem that allows you to lock the choke in place. Push choke in and turn it to the left and it should hold it.Not sure if this is the correct place to ask? But i'm trying to get a old 250 running correctly.
Will start and run with a little fuel down the carb bore and will stay running and while trying to adjust it will stall unless i half choke it. Will not accel at times and just runs funny, first seem very rich and then lean. Cleaned up the carb and replace fuel line.
And how should you use the choke if it is spring loaded, hard to hold choke on and pull cord!!
Strange that it work like that.
Very simply cleaning the carburetor will not solve the fact that aged diaphragms inside the carburetor are hard and shrunken, instead of soft and supple.Hey thanks for responding, I have replaced the fuel hose from the carb to the tank. Filter and pick up in tank are both clean and not plugged. Piston and cylinder look great looking through the exhaust. Did not take compression test, but it feels great. Cleaned points and set gap, has a great spark. Saw starts on first pull almost every time after putting a little fuel down the carb bore.
There is no way to lock the choke on, only a black place knob to push. It does seem to stay running if i hold choke half closed. Then seem to run rich, then to lean? screwy!!
---Does anyone know what carb. kit I should get? The carb is a Tilloson # HL63d
I will pressure test and check for any leaks? I have pressure tested husky saws before. Are these different with a reed plate? -- Plug off carb, and exhaust, pressure hose in spark plug hole, correct?
Love these big old saws! Thanks to all for any help. will keep you posted on outcome.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1917302589...lx6FfZ4S9a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYHey thanks for responding, I have replaced the fuel hose from the carb to the tank. Filter and pick up in tank are both clean and not plugged. Piston and cylinder look great looking through the exhaust. Did not take compression test, but it feels great. Cleaned points and set gap, has a great spark. Saw starts on first pull almost every time after putting a little fuel down the carb bore.
There is no way to lock the choke on, only a black place knob to push. It does seem to stay running if i hold choke half closed. Then seem to run rich, then to lean? screwy!!
---Does anyone know what carb. kit I should get? The carb is a Tilloson # HL63d
I will pressure test and check for any leaks? I have pressure tested husky saws before. Are these different with a reed plate? -- Plug off carb, and exhaust, pressure hose in spark plug hole, correct?
Love these big old saws! Thanks to all for any help. will keep you posted on outcome.
Do you have either a PM1000 parts saw or a recoil housing for one? I'm in need of a recoil housing for mine. If not, know where I can hunt one down?In order of motor size I have a mac125 (123cc), model 73 (120cc gear drive), pm1000 (100cc), super44A (87cc), 1-53 (80cc), 250 (80cc), G-70 (72cc), pm610 (60cc) and an early 10-10A (50+cc). All of them get used in rotation then cleaned and displayed until the next go-round. The 73 is a beast with a long bar once you dig the spikes in and push. The 125 is a legend and deserves it. The pm 1000 cuts about like a 660 with a 32" bar on it (maybe a little more guts). the super 44A is heavy but suprisingly quick. The 1-53 and 250 cut about the same and share a bar. The 10-10 is one of the strongest saws in this size segment that I have ever used. Oh yeah..... I almost forgot about the little mini mac 6 top handle.
Mark,my DE80 has a Walbro SDC85 on it & it's stock as far as I know.The Titan 50/57 and DE50 saws use a Walbro HDA77 carburetor, and as an alternate the HDA46. The HDA77 seems to be in high demand, does anyone know if there are actual differences between the 46 and 77 or is it just perception?
Edit - I will add that the HDA46 has a 3/4" throttle bore, I don't have a 77 on hand to compare.
Mark
Contact Lil Red Barn and convert it to 3/8” while you’re at itWhat would be the part replacement for a Super 250 clutch bearing and rim clutch drum? Looking to acquire these but I couldn't find any information on replacement parts other than a babbit bearing for the clutch (I would like a needle bearing conversion if possible). Thanks all
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