The flywheel seal had failed and the garter spring wore into the crankshaft some. The side cover has plenty of room to set the seal out further away from the bad spot.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Airbox on, tons of compression turning by hand with the clutch.
Not sure who this Mark character is, but the MAC1 is clearly a choke version flat back.
Mark
Mark
matt_lamb_160
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Most 87+cc cylinders have the third port drilled. On one of my 550s I put in an extra spacer on the reed plate which opens the 3rd port more at the air box. I also put MC49 reeds and made adapters to use a HL324a carb. There are pictures in this thread I believe. The saw revs up good and idles ok but isn't great on transition, but I also seem to have a minor vac leak which is being hard to track. With my other saws and jobs, I haven't really got back to trying to get it working better.
GDS
ArboristSite Lurker
If you sound authoritative, even when you're wrong, it is believable...
Does a magical list of block numbers for each model exist? 
Unfortunately the FB vintage chainsaw forums are full of such ''experts''.That's why any advice I need or questions I might have,this is the place I go every time.
syncop8r - I have notes that say the Super 250 block # is 62481, 795/895 is 63629, and 797 is 66251.
That said, I think I have other "regular" 87 cc blocks that also have the 62481 number stamped on them.
Most of the large frame saws had a model number and serial number stamped on the bottom of the crankcase. Often there were two numbers with one lined out as the same block could be a 300 or 650 for example.
The 10 Series saws and other models did not normally have a block number cast or stamped anywhere that I have found on a regular basis. There are some odd 10 Series saws with numbers stamped but I don't know what they mean.
Mark
That said, I think I have other "regular" 87 cc blocks that also have the 62481 number stamped on them.
Most of the large frame saws had a model number and serial number stamped on the bottom of the crankcase. Often there were two numbers with one lined out as the same block could be a 300 or 650 for example.
The 10 Series saws and other models did not normally have a block number cast or stamped anywhere that I have found on a regular basis. There are some odd 10 Series saws with numbers stamped but I don't know what they mean.
Mark
They're like doctors, they have a license toUnfortunately the FB vintage chainsaw forums are full of such ''experts''.That's why any advice I need or questions I might have,this is the place I go every time.
"practice" medicine.
Here is a different McCulloch for you, Pro Mac 61, from and Italian McCulloch factory. I picked up a bunch of saws while in Oregon a few years ago, the story on them was they were purchased by Oregon (chain manufacturer) and used in some sort of chain test. I think it was testing kick back propensity, and you can see on this one how the front handle had been modified by cutting away the cushion so it could be clamped in their test rig. I have several other saws with similar modified hand grips including one with a broke rear handle, evidently that saw/chain combination failed the kick back test...
The PM61 before...I believe the red tape on the trigger release was also a part of the test set up.
The saw is very well made and easy to work on. I was curious about the construction so I took it down quite a ways for inspection and cleaning. If this saw ever cut any wood it was very thoroughly cleaned up with they were done.
They installed one of their own clutch drums for testing purposes.
Very little use on the sprocket.
There is a second lever on the throttle shaft to operate what I determined must be a valve or throttle on the oiler.
Throttle
Oiler
I did have to replace the fuel tank vent line as it was badly deteriorated. They even put a sintered metal vent in the line.
Mark
The PM61 before...I believe the red tape on the trigger release was also a part of the test set up.
The saw is very well made and easy to work on. I was curious about the construction so I took it down quite a ways for inspection and cleaning. If this saw ever cut any wood it was very thoroughly cleaned up with they were done.
They installed one of their own clutch drums for testing purposes.
Very little use on the sprocket.
There is a second lever on the throttle shaft to operate what I determined must be a valve or throttle on the oiler.
Throttle
Oiler
I did have to replace the fuel tank vent line as it was badly deteriorated. They even put a sintered metal vent in the line.
Mark
Does anyone recognize this design? Were there other saws made under a different name that share parts with these Italian Mac's?
The 8mm bar studs are larger diameter at the bar pad to fit the large frame McCulloch bar mount pattern. I just happened to have a new 16" hardnose bar to fit.
Now I am inspired (driven?) to dig a few more of the oddballs out of the attic and clean them up for the display.
Mark
The 8mm bar studs are larger diameter at the bar pad to fit the large frame McCulloch bar mount pattern. I just happened to have a new 16" hardnose bar to fit.
Now I am inspired (driven?) to dig a few more of the oddballs out of the attic and clean them up for the display.
Mark
Mark, I've definitely seen similar-looking Macs for sale here in Italy, but have never had one in my hands.
I'll check the model name next time I see one window shopping.
I haven't posted in a while, but check in often.
My latest eBay macquisition: a NOS one-piece LH starter with perforated metal screen.
The screen is held on with two small screws.
I've seen these on some early 10-10s (or 1-10s?) for sale locally.
Appears they were also fitted to 2-10s:
http://solhem9.se/msag/McCulloch_2-10A.htm
The 2-10s pictured at the link are wearing some sort of cold-weather kit, including rubber grips on the rear handles - nice!
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Just because I cannot find the time to read through 2450 odd pages of information.......
Has anyone here ever considered- or may have tried- to fit a Tillotson HS 60 (out of the Stihl 051/075) into a 125SP and therefore regained two jet adjustment over the single jet American Tillotson some of the 125's were fitted with?
Looks to be doable from my way of thinking? Keeping in mind the geographical location of who is asking and there not being old 10/10's under ever other rock.
Has anyone here ever considered- or may have tried- to fit a Tillotson HS 60 (out of the Stihl 051/075) into a 125SP and therefore regained two jet adjustment over the single jet American Tillotson some of the 125's were fitted with?
Looks to be doable from my way of thinking? Keeping in mind the geographical location of who is asking and there not being old 10/10's under ever other rock.
I added an impulse fitting to the cover of an SDC to allow it to work on an SP125 so I am sure you can do something similar with a Tillotson. In my case I lost the idle speed adjustment capability and the choke connection, but the throttle ended up stopping in just the right spot, and removing the AF cover to choke it for the first cold start is not a problem for this seldom used saw.
Getting at the adjustment screws is a trick, but again you don't have to make an adjustment very often.
Mark
Getting at the adjustment screws is a trick, but again you don't have to make an adjustment very often.
Mark
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My theory is- seeing as how both bodies and shafts are same sizes- swap the choke and throttle arms to get the positioning correct and not have to alter the linkages and so everything can be reversed easily.
Will have to drill and tap the throttle stop for an idle screw- swap fuel barb for the larger size.
But in my eyes it all seems doable.
Will have to drill and tap the throttle stop for an idle screw- swap fuel barb for the larger size.
But in my eyes it all seems doable.
Another oddity today, this one is called a Titan 51, Mike Acres doesn't even have this one listed anywhere that I can find. This one did appear to have run some and there is evidence it did some cutting, not a lot judging from the lack of wear on the sprocket. Same modifications as the Pro Mac 61 for the test rig.
This one also had the larger bar studs at the bar pad, but I had another 16" hardnose bar to complete this one. The sprocket is .325 so this one is sporting a 68 DL .325 .050 chain I had on hand.
I did notice both of these saws had a hole drilled in the top cover, not sure what that is all about.
Mark
This one also had the larger bar studs at the bar pad, but I had another 16" hardnose bar to complete this one. The sprocket is .325 so this one is sporting a 68 DL .325 .050 chain I had on hand.
I did notice both of these saws had a hole drilled in the top cover, not sure what that is all about.
Mark
I too have taken a walbro sdc and added the impulse line to the top and it worked just fine on the big saw. I think it was a sdc 38a. As mentioned the adjusting needles were the tricky part to fit just right. I also took a regular single adjustable tillotson off a 125 and a fully adjustable tillotson off of a sp80/81, and mixed and matched parts and then had a fully adjustable carb that fit right on there, linkages and all.
Which 70cc cylinder works on the 10-10S? Is the Insulator the only thing that needs modifying and will stacking gaskets work?
Thanks. Jason.
Thanks. Jason.
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