I got my kit off one of the vendors here, (sugar creek I think) got a fuel line off Mark.
I'm not opposed to the flat back, if I could get it to work right. If no one has any ideas it's getting an hl 19 or 63
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I'm not opposed to the flat back, if I could get it to work right. If no one has any ideas it's getting an hl 19 or 63
Rallyeguy
ArboristSite Member
I dont mind at all. Thanks for asking though. I ended up getting it for $323.00+shipping and west virginia taxes. All told it was 414.00 to the front door. It was less than my bid i placed with 7 seconds remaining. So i was happy with that.
sean - check the primer to see if it is leaking once the saw builds some pressure in the tank.
If you are adventurous the primers can be rebuilt, of I have some that I've rebuilt already.
I think the primer information is in the McCulloch Carburetor thread if you follow the link in my signature.
Mark
If you are adventurous the primers can be rebuilt, of I have some that I've rebuilt already.
I think the primer information is in the McCulloch Carburetor thread if you follow the link in my signature.
Mark
Thank you!
I'm in the process of selling some random things for some spending cash for a bigger saw. I'd probably be on the market for a 80 - 100cc Mac or Stihl, also depending on how successful I am at reviving my basketcase 450.
$400 is actually pretty reasonably for a vintage 100cc McCulloch that runs.
I will NEVER sell my 795 at any price. Very clean saw, runs good, 40" Oregon bar and chain. But when I'm gone the wife will no doubt sell it very cheap. Moving sale, or Estate Auction.
I got mine for only $300 because the guy didn't know anything about chain saws. He had won a self-storage unit at auction, and lo and behold it had several hundred chain saws in it. Previous owner was obviously a collector, probably he had passed, or maybe moved Outside.
Not very many of us left that actually used those big Macs back in the heyday. I was only 15 when my Dad and I were running 797s in the Big Timber of Prince William Sound in 1968. Back-in-the-day, man
There’s nothing like running the old big girls ,I will NEVER sell my 795 at any price. Very clean saw, runs good, 40" Oregon bar and chain. But when I'm gone the wife will no doubt sell it very cheap. Moving sale, or Estate Auction.
I got mine for only $300 because the guy didn't know anything about chain saws. He had won a self-storage unit at auction, and lo and behold it had several hundred chain saws in it. Previous owner was obviously a collector, probably he had passed, or maybe moved Outside.
Not very many of us left that actually used those big Macs back in the heyday. I was only 15 when my Dad and I were running 797s in the Big Timber of Prince William Sound in 1968. Back-in-the-day, man
Big girls need lovin too!
"The Flywheel" was a publication for the employees of McCulloch.
So... how can we contact her?
What year was this Mark? Always curious about the change of logo
I found this, but it contradicts the above publication:
https://logos.fandom.com/wiki/McCulloch_Motors_Corporation
Oh and this thread came up as well: https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/mcculloch-logo-history-saw-identification.348934/
Attachments
That was the August 1974 edition of the Flywheel. Given the accuracy of other McCulloch documentation, I would say the information from wiki is closer to the truth. McCulloch did seem to be good at using up old stuff while in the process of changing over to the new, with a lot of overlap possible. Read the very last sentence in the notice above which states "The new trademark and type style will be phased into use as the supply of existing materials and products are used."
Mark
Mark
I had followed a video that was linked and rebuilt the primer. (The guy used o-rings stacked together. Ingenious idea!) Although I didn't think to pressure test the primer after I put it back on the saw. Off comes the carb again.
Paid $275 for my 1-76 off evilbay. It needed some tlc, but considering most 100+cc macs( mine is only 99cc) go for $600.00 and up I'm ok with what I paid for it.
Thanks Mark.
There are a couple of us that sell them on eBay
Myself cinci5 and old saw shop. They have proven to work very well.
back to the PM1000 I found about a year ago. this may not interest you guys as it was actually made for McCulloch by Partner, not a US made McCulloch. I never did get this saw running. on prime it would fire, run for a second and die. did it over and over. not long ago I did a post on my Homelite SXL 925, which was doing exactly the same thing. I tried several things to fix that one and finally blocked off the governor and it runs like new now. interesting to me, the PM1000 has pretty much the same carb with a governor. I blocked it off this am and suddenly it is running like a top. very happy about this as I had recently found a nice repro decal set and was wanting to fix this up and paint it.
Idle was high when I shot this. will admit that I put it just before TDC for the vid as it's a bear to pull start. will be easier with the bar and chain on, I think.
Pics when done please! Still need to pick up a coil for mine.
7-55 going back together. The 7-55 like many of the early McCulloch saws has a rotary valve for the intake.
As the crankshaft rotates the valve opens a passageway into the crankcase.
Cage for the needle bearings and needles stuck to the crankshaft with a little dab of grease.
If you work carefully, you can stick the rod cap in place as well.
Make sure the pips on the rod and cap line up.
The points are external so there is a pushrod that rides a cam on the crankshaft.
The early model two man saws featured some counterbalance weights to help reduce the vibrations.
Crankshaft seals have been replaced, but now I have a leak around the counterweight cover. I may have to use some Dirko on the gasket and mating surfaces. I do have a nice strong spark.
Mark
As the crankshaft rotates the valve opens a passageway into the crankcase.
Cage for the needle bearings and needles stuck to the crankshaft with a little dab of grease.
If you work carefully, you can stick the rod cap in place as well.
Make sure the pips on the rod and cap line up.
The points are external so there is a pushrod that rides a cam on the crankshaft.
The early model two man saws featured some counterbalance weights to help reduce the vibrations.
Crankshaft seals have been replaced, but now I have a leak around the counterweight cover. I may have to use some Dirko on the gasket and mating surfaces. I do have a nice strong spark.
Mark
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