promac850
formerly promac610
Did that once with a flywheel on a blown snowblower engine... was prying it off, and FWING!!! BANG! 1.5 lb flywheel goes halfway across the barn and hits a table.
Love doing #### like that. 
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Did that once with a flywheel on a blown snowblower engine... was prying it off, and FWING!!! BANG! 1.5 lb flywheel goes halfway across the barn and hits a table.
Love doing #### like that. 
With luck, the nut does generally strip out first.
Do not use anti-seize or any other lubricant on tapered shafts. Doing that defeats the whole purpose of the taper. If you are worried about stuff flying around, loosen the nut but don't remove it. Then do your pulling.
Were you the one maybe needing a flywheel cover that is common to a 440?
Chris B.
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
yes. got one? shoot me a pm if you like.
oh, and thanks for the memory jogger on the tapered shafts and no lube.
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That's supposed to be a non-locking taper, but I have a 10-10A that will not give up its' clutch.
promac850
formerly promac610
One tool, two words... slide hammer. Bought the big kit at napa last week, and got it for 97 bucks, a discount from 130.
Works like a charm and is very well made, I think it is just a napa branded OTC kit.I used it to remove a speedometer cable... you know how those things can really be stuck in the trans. 155,000 miles on an original cable, yep, it wants to stay in the trans.
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is there a way to tell a ProMac 700 from a 7-10? I have a boreXstroke measurement of 2.00X1.375. There is no serial number tag to narrow it down. It does have the narrow bottom handle brace like on a 10-10, which is why I think its either a 7-10 or a ProMac 700. There is a compression release as well. If I am looking at the carb right it has a SDC 1. Looks to have a crome plated bore with open transfers as well. Will get pics in a day or so.
promac850
formerly promac610
Anyone have advice on boiling the cylinder and piston for my 850? I don't want to take the piston off if I don't have to. It's still on the connecting rod, which is still on the crank, and the flywheel is on there too. Is that a problem?
Brian - if it is a basic saw with no colored stop switch and no throttle release in the handle, it is a 7-10. If the stop switch is red and it has a throttle release in the handle, it is a PM700.
PM610 - you will have to translate that request into English; why are you boiling the piston?
Mark
PM610 - you will have to translate that request into English; why are you boiling the piston?
Mark
Biker Dude
Addicted to ArboristSite
Because it's there.Mark said:
:jester:
Basically, if it came from a saw with 3/8" bar studs it should fit just about any of the large frame saws from the D-30, D-44, 1-40 etc. all the way up through the SP125.
Many of the very old saws had a different adjuster, sort of a milled scallop in the side of the bar that the oversize head of the adjusting screw fit in, but even those bars have the proper hole for the later style of adjuster more common to modern saws. Above the adjuster hole is the oiler hole, with a slot that extends into the groove of the bar.
The little bar in the upper left hand corner fits the 10 Series and 600 Series saws, all the others fit the large frame McCulloch's. The Oregon Duo Tronic bar fits McCulloch & Homelite, and the bar plate covers unneeded holes to insure the oil goes to the bar and chain, and not just leak out on the other side when used on a McCulloch.
What saw did the bar come off of, what saw do you want to mount the bar on?
Mark
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8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Oprah had a good recipe for Baked Piston and rings the other day, this ones a little tough, he wants to tenderize it some.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Mark
I don't see your file plate, Mark. Need any more of those .404 rims?
Originally Posted by heimannm
why are you boiling the piston?
Mark
He is trying to get the carbon off of it. I assume someone has told him this is a way to do it. Ron
why are you boiling the piston?
Mark
He is trying to get the carbon off of it. I assume someone has told him this is a way to do it. Ron
A guy with old McCullochs can always use .404 rims, the red one is 7/16", the green one 1/2", and the ones in the packets to the left of the obvious ones are .354.
Mark
Mark
promac850
formerly promac610
Lol. Really, it's got some carbon deposits on the top, I've already used paint thinner and a brush, let it soak, brush some off, did that about six times, and there still is some carbon. I just don't want it on there, cause if it breaks off and gets in a bad place between the piston and cylinder wall, all of this work would have been for nothing. Cylinder also has some major deposits on the top, and I bet quite a bit hiding in the decomp port.
Next post here and in my thread will be pics of the piston and cylinder.
Go ahead and take the crank case apart, take the seals to a local bearing distributor and tell them what you are working on, they will find new ones fit for the service.
Then you can clean off the top of the piston properly, as well as the top of the cylinder. I normally use a bit of worn out 80-100 grit emery cloth and "wet sand" the piston in the parts washer. If you are nervous about rounding off the corners at the top of the piston, just lay the emery cloth on the table in the washer and work the top of the piston against the emery cloth on the flat surface.
The top of the cylinder can be more challenging, I often resort to a bit of emery cloth chucked up in a wooden dowel or steel rod, just cut a slot in the rod, insert a piece of emery cloth, and go carefully with the drill. Again, I like to do this "wet" in the part washer. My solvent is so dirty and oily that the flash point but be over 300° by now. You might want to use an air powered drill if you are using gasoline, kerosene, or diesel.
Mark
Then you can clean off the top of the piston properly, as well as the top of the cylinder. I normally use a bit of worn out 80-100 grit emery cloth and "wet sand" the piston in the parts washer. If you are nervous about rounding off the corners at the top of the piston, just lay the emery cloth on the table in the washer and work the top of the piston against the emery cloth on the flat surface.
The top of the cylinder can be more challenging, I often resort to a bit of emery cloth chucked up in a wooden dowel or steel rod, just cut a slot in the rod, insert a piece of emery cloth, and go carefully with the drill. Again, I like to do this "wet" in the part washer. My solvent is so dirty and oily that the flash point but be over 300° by now. You might want to use an air powered drill if you are using gasoline, kerosene, or diesel.
Mark
promac850
formerly promac610
Read about it in another thread, but not sure if it was a good idea or if there were any important tips or facts or techniques to it.
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
On that 640 - does it share an engine with other models? I'm hunting parts (point assm in this case) and need to be able to cross reference if possible. Thx.
OREGONLOGGER
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks for being interested. Finally did some cleaning to the saw as is was bad and 6 year oil still in it. Oil pump works great no O-ring in push knob. No spark took coil off checked kill switch wire/spark plug boot with no cracks anywhere. Has electronic ignition and haven't pulled flywheel off to see trigger issues or what was living in there. Sure if I can't get spark I'll send ya some pic's and it's yours. Not worried about a price many folks have helped me hereIndestructible saws, eh? That apparetentely is the reason people think they'reworth their weight in gold.Nearly NIB 610's are not worth 125 bucks, IMHO. There are just too many 610's and 605's out there for them to bring that much. The 650, however, is much rarer then the 610 and 605 IMO.
How much do you want for that one?
