McCulloch Chain Saws

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Oh my lad.
What have you gotten yourself into?

One saw that is all it took, and now I cant seem to stop. I took a gamble on ebay for an unknown saw that looked like it could have been a 70cc version. It turned out to be a 7-10. Need a piston( or at least rings might be able to reuse piston) and muffler. Have a lot of yellow saws in boxes so I am scrounging for parts for some of them.
 
hey - a guy is offering me a McCulloch 150 for like $5 ("ran 20 years ago"). I can't find any reference to a 150 (a 1-50, yes). And a Pro 10-10 Auto ("would run good with some carb work").

Anyone heard of a "150"?

Is the Pro 10-10 Auto a decent saw?
 
hey - a guy is offering me a McCulloch 150 for like $5 ("ran 20 years ago"). I can't find any reference to a 150 (a 1-50, yes). And a Pro 10-10 Auto ("would run good with some carb work").

Anyone heard of a "150"?

Is the Pro 10-10 Auto a decent saw?

First off, is that 5 bucks for each saw? If it is, then geez, what are ya waiting for? :) Mac 150? Sounds like he might've just forgot to put the dash in while typing. Pics would be helpful, if you can get them.

The 10-10's are good saws, but very common. Don't pay a ton of money for it. At most, 50 for a great running and looking one. (most I'd pay, some may pay more)
 
I couldn't find the original post from a couple of weeks ago, but someone was asking about the difference between the 1-81 and 1-81HD. I was digging through IPLs looking for something and saw it so I checked. There's a couple miscellaneous parts with different numbers, nothing that affects how it runs or that you could even tell were different I imagine. The 1 glaring difference was the gearbox. Most Macs had either 2:1 or 3:1. Seems the 1-81HD had 3.6:1 Reckon you could pull a dozer track with machetes welded to it with that.

That was me asking. I believe that it was for sale on ebay. That would be a good gear set for lee's 797g.
 
$5 for the 1-50 (or whatever it is), $25 for the pro mac 10-10 auto. yea, the $5 is a no-brainer.

If you're looking for a collector's item, maybe the 10-10 ain't the best but there's nothing wrong with having one to use. Most of them do very well if there isn't anything wrong with them. I used one this fall to cut up a big maple tree and was very happy with it.
 
$5 for the 1-50 (or whatever it is), $25 for the pro mac 10-10 auto. yea, the $5 is a no-brainer.

If you're looking for a collector's item, maybe the 10-10 ain't the best but there's nothing wrong with having one to use. Most of them do very well if there isn't anything wrong with them. I used one this fall to cut up a big maple tree and was very happy with it.

Get the saws. You got nothing to lose. :) Yellow fever at it's best. :D
 
137 - check your e-mail...

Mark

Mark: Thank you it will help a lot.

By the way this tilly carb on my 250 does not have a choke and was not even drilled/punched out for a choke butterfly pivot rod. the button is not lockable and there is no plunger style choke is this common? is there something missing ie: plunger style choke?.
 
Anybody know if a 6-10A piston will work in a 7-10A?

It should work. They both are supposed to have the same bore and stroke size.

I looked at the new 6-10 piston assembly on ebay and it looks different from the 7-10 piston I have experience with. The 6-10 piston seems to have a full skurt all the way around. I don't know if that would make a diffence or not. If you buy it and it won't work, I'd be interested in it though. Because I have a super 6-10a that I bought a while back.
 
Mark: Thank you it will help a lot.

By the way this tilly carb on my 250 does not have a choke and was not even drilled/punched out for a choke butterfly pivot rod. the button is not lockable and there is no plunger style choke is this common? is there something missing ie: plunger style choke?.

I've heard other people here talking about having to prime their big Macs to get them started. I don't remember what model of saw they had but I know they didn't have a choke.
 
I've heard other people here talking about having to prime their big Macs to get them started. I don't remember what model of saw they had but I know they didn't have a choke.

I remember reading that as well but im in the same boat cant remember the specifics if there was any to the conversation.
 
I looked at the new 6-10 piston assembly on ebay and it looks different from the 7-10 piston I have experience with. The 6-10 piston seems to have a full skurt all the way around. I don't know if that would make a diffence or not. If you buy it and it won't work, I'd be interested in it though. Because I have a super 6-10a that I bought a while back.

I will look at my piston in the morning. I think it looked like the one I was saw on ebay. If it looks the same I will get it an give it a try.
 
137 - If you look back a few pages in this thread you will see a photo Randy Mac posted with a 1-43 using the plunger style choke. It looks to me like someone has replaced the original carburetor in yours with the HL 87 from a model with the plunger type choke, unfortunately the only way to make a choke work on your saw will be to get the choke assembly and oiler rod from a 1-43 or similar machine and make the change yourself.

Alternative is to prime the saw to start it...

Mark
 
I've heard other people here talking about having to prime their big Macs to get them started. I don't remember what model of saw they had but I know they didn't have a choke.

All of the McCulloch chain saws came with either a choke or a real primer that would spritz a charge of fuel into the intake.

Many of the choke arrangements would fail to close completely either due to wear of the mechanisms, or faulty adjustments. It it very obvious to see and correct if you are familiar with how a choke should work, not so obvious for someone unfamilair with carburetor operation.

On the primer equipped models, the primers would at times fail, more frequently the check valve in the primer would not function (primer seat turn to gum) or if the saw was run completely out of fuel, it just took too much effort to pump it back up by priming.

Many of the kart carburetors had no choke and no primer, you were expected to have to prime them or choke by hand (hold you hand over the carburetor inlet) to get them started.

Mark
 
All of the McCulloch chain saws came with either a choke or a real primer that would spritz a charge of fuel into the intake.

Many of the choke arrangements would fail to close completely either due to wear of the mechanisms, or faulty adjustments. It it very obvious to see and correct if you are familiar with how a choke should work, not so obvious for someone unfamilair with carburetor operation.

On the primer equipped models, the primers would at times fail, more frequently the check valve in the primer would not function (primer seat turn to gum) or if the saw was run completely out of fuel, it just took too much effort to pump it back up by priming.

Many of the kart carburetors had no choke and no primer, you were expected to have to prime them or choke by hand (hold you hand over the carburetor inlet) to get them started.

Mark

Thanks, Mark...I think it may have been the kart motor I was reading about, I've never had any of the Macs with a primer, only a choke. I've had a few worn out ones that might have been better with both.
 
As has been discussed elsewhere, the "primer" on modern saws is really just a purge to move fuel to/through the carburetor. The carburetor will still be equipped with a choke to provide the richer mixture needed for starting cold.

Many of the old McCullochs had a actual primer that pumped fuel from the tank to the carburetor and went on to spray a shot directly into the intake of the saw.

One the very old saws, 3-25, 4-30, 47, 73, 77 it was a completely separate device from the carburetor itself and attached to the fuel tank.

On certain later models like the 33, 35, 39 it was a separate function built in to the integral carburetor.

On the 10 Series flat back / bull frog carburetors and the BP-1 it was a separate function built in to removable carburetors.

On the later model large frame saw with the flat back, it was a separate piece added to the carburetor; you can see the bosses on all of the large flat backs whether they ended up with a primer or not.

Mark
 

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