McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Sounds like a Chevy pick-up:hmm3grin2orange:

I stopped my list short of trucks and cars - no use in stirring up too much trouble.

Back on course - I'm gathering up 125 parts. Sure is cheaper to buy them attached to a saw. Ron

 

[dieselsmoke]

Congrats!!! You could probably fool most people. Go put it in some big wood now!!

I retract my offer to "borrow " your 797, no need for it now :hmm3grin2orange: Big wood is at my father's farm, hopefully this weekend!!

 

[54stude]

How to identify a 125 with top shroud missing

Are there any numbers stamped into, or a tag attached to a 125 chainsaw to help identify it if it is missing the top cover? Just wondering if there are a few key numbers that would confirm that a saw is a 125 (or 105).
Thanks in advance for everyones help!
Brian

 

[watsonr]

Are there any numbers stamped into, or a tag attached to a 125 chainsaw to help identify it if it is missing the top cover? Just wondering if there are a few key numbers that would confirm that a saw is a 125 (or 105).
Thanks in advance for everyones help!
Brian

Post some pictures, should be able to identify with that.

 

[leeha]

Are there any numbers stamped into, or a tag attached to a 125 chainsaw to help identify it if it is missing the top cover? Just wondering if there are a few key numbers that would confirm that a saw is a 125 (or 105).
Thanks in advance for everyones help!
Brian

The only true way to identify a 125 from
a 105 is the measure the bore an stroke.




Lee

 

[54stude]

false alarm

False alarm on the 125.

Clear pictures of the saws show them to be 610, 10-10, and possibly PM700 parts saws missing covers.

 

[cpr]

Y'all ever see one of these before?

I thought it was kinda neat, but I can see why they weren't very popular. Very easy to smash down on the vent or in on the grips and make it ineffective. Also it would just spin on a tight cap. You'd have to pop it to refuel. Might stick it on the 101, it'd look good with the chrome shrouds.

 

[belgian]

Mac arc welder 170

Howdy boys,

Things have been very calm lately on the belgian saw front, but today I got a phone call from somebody who had a Mac Culloch arc welder 170 Amps for sale. I did some research in the Mac IPL's from Bob and it seems to be the '66 model.
Does anyone know what the size engine is on this item ?. I know it's not a chainsaw, but it's a Mac, so I may make him an offer.

anyone has experience how this welder works ?

 

[54stude]

I think I remember reading that the McCulloch welders are very similar to a 940 2 man saw, so I would assume it is 103cc's, but that is only a guess.

 

[belgian]

Thanks for the golden tip. I had a peak over at the collector forum and it seems indeed the 940 engine. I have been searching for a Mac 2 man saw a long time in Belgium with no luck, and now this thing turns up....too bad it doesn't have a gearbox and a bar...;grrr:msp_wink:

I'll see what he wants for it, it seems in very good shape (so he told)

 

[struggle]

:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
:biggrinbounce2:

 

[Eccentric]

Yep. Should be 103cc. Similar to a McCulloch 790 engine, but with the starter on the flywheel cover. The ones I've seen pics of still have the felling sight line cast into the flywheel cover. Not much need for it on a generator/welder!:jester:

The McCulloch Chainsaw Carburetors publication lists a HUGE Tillotson HL272A carb (1.0" throttle bore, .875" venturi) that was used on the 940 and the McWelder. Standard Mac chainsaw flabacks and Tillotson HL's have a .687" ventury and a .812" throttle bore. Only thing bigger on these engines was the BDC carbs used on the Kart engines.

It bolts to a Kart style carb adaptor plate that orients the carb throat vertically, straight into the reeds (no 90degree bend like we have on our saws). Many "Kart Saw" conversions have used this same setup.

 

[struggle]

I have some serious concerns unfortunately about this pick. I ended up getting into a bit of a bidding war to get it.

Fuel tank cracked and has had an epoxy repair.

The big issue is it has oil in the cylinder:mad2: Since this was at an auction I had no way to tell about this. It pulls over but I am unsure of what else could be wrong now with it. Please do tell. I have not pulled the muffler but from what I could make out through the spark plug hole it looked good. It has a good blue spark.

I really wanted to put gas in it and start it but now am afraid with the oil in the cylinder to try it.

Also picked up an XL auto new in the box. missing papers though. Never run.

 

[Eccentric]

I have some serious concerns unfortunately about this pick. I ended up getting into a bit of a bidding war to get it.

Fuel tank cracked and has had an epoxy repair.

The big issue is it has oil in the cylinder:mad2: Since this was at an auction I had no way to tell about this. It pulls over but I am unsure of what else could be wrong now with it. Please do tell. I have not pulled the muffler but from what I could make out through the spark plug hole it looked good. It has a good blue spark.

I really wanted to put gas in it and start it but now am afraid with the oil in the cylinder to try it.

Don't fret too much Shane. The oil in the cylinder is probably from a leaking auto oiler diaphragm. The pump assembly is on top of the oil tank, behind the filler cap. Those pumps are pulse driven, and bar oil can get into the engine if the pump's not right. Don't pull the saw over with the spark plug in place until you fix the oil pump and get all the oil out of the jug.

You definitely need a new fuel tank. One from a SP105 or SP125 will work.

That NIB XL is cool. Put it together and stick it on the mantle..............or fuel it up and use it. Doubt it will ever be a collectors piece. It'll give years of good service.

 

[struggle]

Do I dare try to start it this way?

 

[cpr]

Yep. Should be 103cc. Similar to a McCulloch 790 engine, but with the starter on the flywheel cover. The ones I've seen pics of still have the felling sight line cast into the flywheel cover. Not much need for it on a generator/welder!:jester:

The McCulloch Chainsaw Carburetors publication lists a HUGE Tillotson HL272A carb (1.0" throttle bore, .875" venturi) that was used on the 940 and the McWelder. Standard Mac chainsaw flabacks and Tillotson HL's have a .687" ventury and a .812" throttle bore. Only thing bigger on these engines was the BDC carbs used on the Kart engines.

It bolts to a Kart style carb adaptor plate that orients the carb throat vertically, straight into the reeds (no 90degree bend like we have on our saws). Many "Kart Saw" conversions have used this same setup.

There are chokeless/primerless flatbacks with .940 throttle bore. Not sure on the venturi.

Don't fret too much Shane. The oil in the cylinder is probably from a leaking auto oiler diaphragm. The pump assembly is on top of the oil tank, behind the filler cap. Those pumps are pulse driven, and bar oil can get into the engine if the pump's not right. Don't pull the saw over with the spark plug in place until you fix the oil pump and get all the oil out of the jug.

You definitely need a new fuel tank. One from a SP105 or SP125 will work.

+1 and congrats!

 

[Eccentric]

Do I dare try to start it this way?

I wouldn't. If the problem was with the XL and the SP125 was NOS, then that'd be another story. How much oil is in the jug? Did it pour out when you removed the sparkplug? Did the engine get REALLY hard to pull over? You don't wanna hydrolock the engine and bend/break a rod. Saw a guy do that with your favorite saw at the scrap yard a while ago. Damn 150 had a a leaking oiler diaphragm and was pooping oil out the muffler.

He kept pulling and pulling...............with it getting more oil filled with every tug. Eventually it crunched to a stop. When he set it down I should have taken the bar off of it for a future E-Z saw (didn't have one at the time, but I do now). Was a pristine Homelite branded 16" Windsor Speed Tip replaceable sprocket nose bar. Still had mose of the "HOMELITE" lettering on it. All I could think of was how much of an idiot the dude was..............and how much I dislike 150's. I'm a bit slow sometimes.:bang:

 

[Eccentric]

There are chokeless/primerless flatbacks with .940 throttle bore. Not sure on the venturi.

I'd forgotten about those larger flatbacks. They're not in that publication. Mac didn't use them on generators, welders, or saws IIRC. Just Karts. I think Randy has one of those .940 flatbacks that he's thinking about putting on his 790 that I'm fixing up.


The various BDC carbs (sort of a large flatback) listed in that publication have a 1.37" throttle bore and a 1.25" venturi. Holy crap! Some had chokes, and some didn't.

 

[struggle]

I got close to hydro locking. It had enough oil to splatter it out when i removed the plug. I am sure it has been sitting for possibly 15-20 years or maybe even more. The owner was 90 some years old and he passed not to long ago. I really doubt he was using it.

When I got to the auction I pulled it over and it spun good but after I got home and after I am sure several other people tried pulling it over it only moved more oil into the cylinder. I just hope there is no major damage.

I see the oil pump on the front. top of the tank. Do I have to remove the tank to address the leak or just remove the top portion of it?

In the next couple of days I will pull the muffler for a better assessment.

 

[Eccentric]

I got close to hydro locking. It had enough oil to splatter it out when i removed the plug. I am sure it has been sitting for possibly 15-20 years or maybe even more. The owner was 90 some years old and he passed not to long ago. I really doubt he was using it.

When I got to the auction I pulled it over and it spun good but after I got home and after I am sure several other people tried pulling it over it only moved more oil into the cylinder. I just hope there is no major damage.

I see the oil pump on the front. top of the tank. Do I have to remove the tank to address the leak or just remove the top portion of it?

In the next couple of days I will pull the muffler for a better assessment.

Looks like the break is on the upper fuel tank half. Pull it and look at the lower half. Some serious force at work here. Gotta make sure nothing else got crunched/cracked.

As for the oiler problem, you don't have to mess with the oil tank at all. Just unbolt the oil pump and rebuild it. Re install it with a new gasket.

I'll send you a copy of the service manual and the IPL for that saw tonight if you don't have 'em already. Going outside to play with saws and stuff now...