McCulloch Chain Saws

[Brian13]

Can I join the club now? :chainsawguy:


Just got this one in the mail today. Got it from another member on the forum. It was listed in the classifieds. Haven't had much of a chance to check it out yet. I did pull the muffler and the p&c look pretty good. Compression seems good too but I haven't put the comp tester on it. She needs a good cleaning! The only thing i've found is some hard stuff on the top corner of the fuel tank. I'm guessing I'll find a crack or hole under there. Probably won't get to work on it much till next week. This is my weekend to work. :msp_angry:

Looks to be in good shape under the dirt. Will look real nice with the bar on it.

 

[Ambull]

Did the exhuast port have a center bridge or was it one oval port? Oval port is SP, bridged is CP. They are different. SP porting is further towards torque, CP in the middle, the 797 biased toward rpm and HP (I don't have exacts on the transfers, but the older you go, the higher the exhaust port). Also, not all SP blocks are chrome, just the later ones.

Thanks to Mark's 1-72 pictures, I got motivated to modify the 30" roller Homie bar I bought for mine. Finally got the job done tonight and ran it for a few cuts. Works great, but 30" with .404 skip is stretching the limit on her. Doesn't freight-train like the 797... no kidding, right? 87s up isn't totally fair for this saw vs the Super 250 because that one has 3/8 full on a 25", but it "feels" like the Super 250 can be dogged more than the 1-72. Makes me more interested to do a kart-head 1-70 and see how it stacks up to the Super 250... too many projects right now.

Thanks for the clarification CPR. I knew most of this. I think if the muffler is removed, you can tell if it is a chrome cylinder or not.

The CP125 has a very different decompression valve on it, I believe. It is the DSP, and it is all manual - you have to close it after you start the saw.

 

[heimannm]

Nmurph - There are quite a few different SDC carburetors, with some pretty big differences. Up through the SDC16 the venturi is .625" and the throttle bore .750"

The SDC18, 19, 20, and 22 are .750" venturi and .812 throttle bore.

The layout of the impulse and jets vary from model to model as well making some easy to swap in/out of the SP125, others not so much.

Deprime - Probably someone has change the flywheel cover or added the LH starter, what does the clutch side look like? Does the clutch have starter pawls for the RH starter? Clutch cover have a starter as well? Does that one still have the McCulloch flat back with primer?

Ambull - The MO parts are 10 series block and a 600 series block.

Struggle - The muffler is SP125, CP muffler was a round one. If is has a pop up compression release it is SP, CP had the 795/797 style locking lever compression release.

Dogder - I have a Mini Mac service, if you are interested PM me with an e-mail addresss and I can send it. I don't think I have one for the 300 Series saws. 600134 is the 600 Series, don't worry too much about the wrong parts as almost everything with change up and down the line. Two exceptions, there were thick and thin ring versions, and there were a few odd ball 57 cc also referred to as 3.4 In³ compared to the standard 60 cc models / 3.7 In³.

I think I am caught up here for a bit...

Mark

 

[cpr]

Thanks for the clarification CPR. I knew most of this. I think if the muffler is removed, you can tell if it is a chrome cylinder or not.

The CP125 has a very different decompression valve on it, I believe. It is the DSP, and it is all manual - you have to close it after you start the saw.

Easiest way is to use a telescoping "fishing" magnet. If it sticks to the cylinder wall, it's lined, if not, chromed.

 

[nmurph]

So, is a 1-70/80 a two piece head?

 

[struggle]

To all that responded I am feeling better now.

The exhaust is open, no bridge.
The decompression is just that. No levers. Just push it down.

So if it is the non-chromed cyclinder does this make the saw more desirable or just different. I saw or someone here said some were chrome and some were not. Non-chrome could be bored which is good.

I also noticed that some people show pictures of the ID tag in the airbox as being pinned down and mine has a screw holding it in place. It would be really nice to get an idea if this is a newer or later model. It is all yellow and I see many with black shrouds and black air-cleaner covers?

You guys rock on the info I am getting here. I still have taking the oil pump apart as it looks like I have to remove the fuel tank to do this.

 

[struggle]

Easiest way is to use a telescoping "fishing" magnet. If it sticks to the cylinder wall, it's lined, if not, chromed.

The magnet test sticks to the wall insantly.

So the question still remains what exactly am I dealing with non-chrome SP125.

I can see three transfer ports on the bottom of the cylinder looking through the exhaust.

Exhaust is oval port.

 

[promac850]

The magnet test sticks to the wall insantly.

So the question still remains what exactly am I dealing with non-chrome SP125.

I can see three transfer ports on the bottom of the cylinder looking through the exhaust.

Exhaust is oval port.

I'm getting excited about your Super Pro build!!!!

I will have my 790 build thread posted soon.

 

[Deprime]

First one I have ever seen with left hand start. Congrats on the new saw!!!

Deprime - Probably someone has change the flywheel cover or added the LH starter, what does the clutch side look like? Does the clutch have starter pawls for the RH starter? Clutch cover have a starter as well? Does that one still have the McCulloch flat back with primer?Mark

That's what I thought as well but I'll have to do some investigating to be sure. The clutch cover does not have a starter and the clutch has no starter pawls. I found something interesting when I was looking through some of my info.

Apparently McCulloch made a 740L model. It is listed in the '68 Piston, Cylinder Assembly, & Ring Set data sheet. It says that it was a European model and had the thin rings. I'll have to check and see if this one is thin or thick rings. Could be a frankensaw or could be a rare model.

I don't have an IPL for a 740L but I do have one for a 795L. I wonder if the starter/flywheel/clutch/clutch cover from one of these could have been switched over to a regular 740?

Oh, and it does have the Mac carb with primer. 59346C is stamped on the carb.

 

[Deprime]

Be careful modifying the bar. Make sure that it will work right with the oiler and the bar brackets. I remember when I first got my SP125C, and I put a large Homelite bar on it. Seemed to fit perfect. I started up the saw, and sparks started shooting out.

The brackets have a strategic hole to let out the oil out of the oiler. It also lines up with the bar just right.

Best of luck.

Thanks. I will be careful when lining up the oiler hole.

Thanks Randy!

It looks good with that bar. :msp_thumbsup:

Wow! They really do look good with that bar!! :msp_thumbup:

Looks to be in good shape under the dirt. Will look real nice with the bar on it.

Thanks!

 

[cpr]

The magnet test sticks to the wall insantly.

So the question still remains what exactly am I dealing with non-chrome SP125.

I can see three transfer ports on the bottom of the cylinder looking through the exhaust.

Exhaust is oval port.

Early SP block and you can have it bored to true it up if need be.

 

[heimannm]

Deprime - 740L, wow I am yellow with envy...

Belgian has a nice 795L, I never knew there was a 740L.

Let's see some photos of the clutch side, I want to know what that cover looks like.

Struggle - What is the Model number and Serial number of your SP125? I show Model numbers 600076, 600076A, B, and D, and Serial numbers 10 or 11 (600076 only), or 11, 12, 13, 14, or 15 for the A, B, and D Model number suffixes. Mine are both 600076D's with 13 prefixes on the Serial number, I've never bothered to check is they were chrome plated or with the cast sleeve.

Mark

 

[struggle]

Deprime - 740L, wow I am yellow with envy...

Belgian has a nice 795L, I never knew there was a 740L.

Let's see some photos of the clutch side, I want to know what that cover looks like.

Struggle - What is the Model number and Serial number of your SP125? I show Model numbers 600076, 600076A, B, and D, and Serial numbers 10 or 11 (600076 only), or 11, 12, 13, 14, or 15 for the A, B, and D Model number suffixes. Mine are both 600076D's with 13 prefixes on the Serial number, I've never bothered to check is they were chrome plated or with the cast sleeve.

Mark

600076 was on the tag in the airbox. I could find no other numbers than the c - p on the under side.

 

[fordman_6]

Mcculloch Part numbers fit what saw

I have just acquired a lot of mcculloch nos parts, we are talking boxes and boxes of parts and i have no way of knowing what part numbers go to what saws is there a site that has a way to type in the part number and it tells you what saw it goes to, when i get all of the parts organized let me know if any body needs anything will sell real cheap, i got this lot cheap from a local mower/saw shop and would pass on the savings.

email [email protected]

 

[fordman_6]

IPL's

Also forgot this lot came with i think every ipl for mcculloch saws known to man

 

[heimannm]

What sort of range on the part numbers?

In general:

19XXX are really really old old saws (40's & 50's)
36XXX are really old old saws (50's & 60's)
40XXX/50XXX/60XXX are old old saws (60's & 70's mostly)
80XXX/90XXX are old saws (70's, 80's, & 90's)
21XXXX are sort of the end of the road for McCulloch

I have no idea the sort of numbering scheme is used on "modern" McCulloch saws.

All of the McCulloch IPL's would likely fill a 40' container...

I will most likely be in contact moving forward.

Mark

 

[fordman_6]

What sort of range on the part numbers?

In general:

19XXX are really really old old saws (40's & 50's)
36XXX are really old old saws (50's & 60's)
40XXX/50XXX/60XXX are old old saws (60's & 70's mostly)
80XXX/90XXX are old saws (70's, 80's, & 90's)
21XXXX are sort of the end of the road for McCulloch

I have no idea the sort of numbering scheme is used on "modern" McCulloch saws.

All of the McCulloch IPL's would likely fill a 40' container...

I will most likely be in contact moving forward.

Mark

most of the stuff is in the 80xxx and 90xxx with some 21xxx and 60xxx

I dont have enough ipls to fill a 40' container but the suff goes back to the 60's up to the 90's

 

[promac850]

most of the stuff is in the 80xxx and 90xxx with some 21xxx and 60xxx

I dont have enough ipls to fill a 40' container but the suff goes back to the 60's up to the 90's

Keep an eye out for stuff with 50's and 60's for me please... I need a few parts for my 790 and some for the 850 and 610 wouldn't hurt either. I would be happy to toss some green paper your way to get some good old parts.

 

[cbfarmall]

Here's one that has got me mystified. Working on my Super 250. Very poor spark, hard to start, won't idle, cuts out upexpectedly. Installed new points and condensor, set coil air gap, still poor spark. Barely jumps a 1/16" gap, not even close to 1/8" or 1/4". Filed and cleaned the new points and swapped condensors, no improvement. Swapped coils, no difference. Reset the points gap just a hair tighter, much better spark but not at fast cranking speeds. Spinning the flywheel by hand produces a great spark that jumps a 1/4" gap and I can hear it, but when I crank with the recoil it vitually disappears. Predictably, it won't run this way. Very poor idle and if I hit the throttle it'll miss and sputter. Sometimes it'll catch and rev up, but there is still a severe miss.

So, I can put in an electronic module but this would be pretty much admitting defeat. Do I need to keep adjusting the points tighter? Factory spec is .020. I've already disconnected the on/off switch so that has been ruled out.

Chris B.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Deprime - 740L, wow I am yellow with envy...

Belgian has a nice 795L, I never knew there was a 740L.

Let's see some photos of the clutch side, I want to know what that cover looks like.

Struggle - What is the Model number and Serial number of your SP125? I show Model numbers 600076, 600076A, B, and D, and Serial numbers 10 or 11 (600076 only), or 11, 12, 13, 14, or 15 for the A, B, and D Model number suffixes. Mine are both 600076D's with 13 prefixes on the Serial number, I've never bothered to check is they were chrome plated or with the cast sleeve.

Mark

I have a 795L too.

There is a 1-72L too. This is not my saw.