McCulloch Chain Saws

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The 250 Lives!

Today was the first chance I had to get to work on the 250 again. Pried and popped 6 times and still couldn't get it to pick up fuel so opened the tank to see if there was at least fuel in the line there and the line had pulled off the nipple.

Reinstalled that, 4 more prime and pops and it finally started running on it's own. Set the idle and the L and it was still running a little rough but put it in some wood and made about 8 cuts and it was running like a dream.

Unfortunately, I forgot my video camera so you'll have to trust me. I will be trying to get some wood so i can get some video up ASAP.
 
Stellarex - make sure the bolts securing the carburetor are the proper length, if they are too long or if you are missing a gasket in there anywhere then putting the cover on will "lift" the carburetor.

I have one 10 Series saw with a carburetor conversion that put the inlet to the carburetor right against the air filter and it acts the same way, leaving the cover just a little loose and it works just fine.

For those interested, I am going through all of the McCulloch Service Bulletins I have and compiling a folder with any that references SP80/81 or PM800/805/850 but it will be a large file. Anyone interested can send a PM with your e-mail address and I will forward it along when I finish.

I also have a couple of CD's with all 10 Series IPL's and work shop manual if anyone would like one, PM with a mail address and I can send them along.

Mark
 
Hello everyone,
I do not have many Macs but recently aquired this SP 105 that I had fun getting going. I love the way they are laid out to make them easy to work on. Tuning the carb was a learning experience - why did McCulloch use a carb with no high speed adjustment? But it idles like a baby and has the most beautiful sound.
In the cut it compares very favourably to my 070, a good feat.
I think I am starting to like these yellow beasts.

Al - I ran my SP105 a good bit on Saturday afternoon working on that large locust trunk a few posts back. With the fixed jet carburetor there is no chance of running too lean, but you do have to put some pressure on it to load it to the point it clears up in the cut. Should be just the ticket for the hard wood down under. One day I will make a side by side comparison with the SP105 and my 125's as well as with the other SP105 I got from Belgian. Should be a fun day.

I hope to go back tomorrow night after work and finish cutting and splitting. Some of the big rounds will have to be noodled up just to get them to a size I can manipulate into my splitter.

Mark
 
Stellarex - make sure the bolts securing the carburetor are the proper length, if they are too long or if you are missing a gasket in there anywhere then putting the cover on will "lift" the carburetor.

I have one 10 Series saw with a carburetor conversion that put the inlet to the carburetor right against the air filter and it acts the same way, leaving the cover just a little loose and it works just fine.

For those interested, I am going through all of the McCulloch Service Bulletins I have and compiling a folder with any that references SP80/81 or PM800/805/850 but it will be a large file. Anyone interested can send a PM with your e-mail address and I will forward it along when I finish.

I also have a couple of CD's with all 10 Series IPL's and work shop manual if anyone would like one, PM with a mail address and I can send them along.

Mark

PM Sent Mark. Very generous of you.:cheers:
 
Stellarex - make sure the bolts securing the carburetor are the proper length, if they are too long or if you are missing a gasket in there anywhere then putting the cover on will "lift" the carburetor.

I have one 10 Series saw with a carburetor conversion that put the inlet to the carburetor right against the air filter and it acts the same way, leaving the cover just a little loose and it works just fine.

For those interested, I am going through all of the McCulloch Service Bulletins I have and compiling a folder with any that references SP80/81 or PM800/805/850 but it will be a large file. Anyone interested can send a PM with your e-mail address and I will forward it along when I finish.

I also have a couple of CD's with all 10 Series IPL's and work shop manual if anyone would like one, PM with a mail address and I can send them along.

Mark


EXACTLY, The tighter I make the cover the worse the saw runs, if I leave it a little loose it still runs but bogs out when I give it gas, I need to feather the throttle to keep it running. I'm worried about leaving that cover off though, lots of rattling going on when the saws running and I'd think it would fall off if everything isnt in there tight. I'll have to order the carb kit for it and proceed from there. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
Yep Jamaican, Sam Adams is great :cheers:

Are all 10-10 piston rings the same? All four IPLs show the same part number. Don't see an reason I wouldn't put new ones in since I'm basically there. Can clean out the inside and check things out as well.

Okay, now that you have disclosed your beer, what's the blue stuff in the honey bear?

I suggest you stick with the part number for the rings as the name 10-10 can be used generically; one difference is some models had bigger displacement. I wouldn't be surprised to hear a difference between early models and later models but I don't know. Ron
 
I have one 850 engine, two sp81 engines, and one pm800. All of the intakes on the engines look the same to me. The pm800 has the odd exhaust port, but the sp81 and 850 exhaust look the same. I haven't measured the timing on the ports. If the mp800 has more power than my sp81 (185 psi), then it's gonna be amazing. I hope to get my pm800 project rapped up next week. I still have some painting to do before I can begin assembly. I had to have the clutch cover welded and machined because I couldn't find a replacement.

I look forward to following your build. I don't know how much compression is leaked off by the Q port on an 800 but this is likely the reason why I don't get these kind of readings and why my former well worn 8200 (130 psi, same Q port design) was almost on par with my former well worn 850 (145-150psi IIRC). I have two 800s that are 165 psi, one at 160 psi and one north of 150 psi - how much north isn't worth the painful hobble down to the basement to look up. Ron

PS: Too late now but welding and machining sounds expensive. There are still NOS clutch covers available for the 800 and its kin complete with brake, etc for about $100 - which in my book is also expensive.
 
Stellarex - make sure the bolts securing the carburetor are the proper length, if they are too long or if you are missing a gasket in there anywhere then putting the cover on will "lift" the carburetor.

I have one 10 Series saw with a carburetor conversion that put the inlet to the carburetor right against the air filter and it acts the same way, leaving the cover just a little loose and it works just fine.

For those interested, I am going through all of the McCulloch Service Bulletins I have and compiling a folder with any that references SP80/81 or PM800/805/850 but it will be a large file. Anyone interested can send a PM with your e-mail address and I will forward it along when I finish.

I also have a couple of CD's with all 10 Series IPL's and work shop manual if anyone would like one, PM with a mail address and I can send them along.

Mark

PM being sent your way for the service buletins.


I look forward to following your build. I don't know how much compression is leaked off by the Q port on an 800 but this is likely the reason why I don't get these kind of readings and why my former well worn 8200 (130 psi, same Q port design) was almost on par with my former well worn 850 (145-150psi IIRC). I have two 800s that are 165 psi, one at 160 psi and one north of 150 psi - how much north isn't worth the painful hobble down to the basement to look up. Ron

PS: Too late now but welding and machining sounds expensive. There are still NOS clutch covers available for the 800 and its kin complete with brake, etc for about $100 - which in my book is also expensive.


Yeah. I already have too much money tied up in this project. Between aquiring the saw and buying parts, I have about $213 in the PM 800 restoration. There is no way I could justify a $100 more for a clutch cover.
 
Okay, now that you have disclosed your beer, what's the blue stuff in the honey bear?

I suggest you stick with the part number for the rings as the name 10-10 can be used generically; one difference is some models had bigger displacement. I wouldn't be surprised to hear a difference between early models and later models but I don't know. Ron

It's 50:1 mix. I was trying to flush the carbon/rust out that fell in when the muffler was removed. My dad was the engineering manager at the molding place that originally designed and made those bears. Now they are copied all over the place.
 
That's a good looking 300.

The original part number for the fuel line was 50082 but may be hard to find today. Both ends have a bit of a "bell", smaller one to go over the nipple at the top of the tank, larger one for the felt fuel filter.

If you can stand not being all original, a piece of 3/16" tygon should slip over the nipple, then you can use any weighted fuel filter that will fit the 3/16" fuel line.

Mark
 
For those interested, I am going through all of the McCulloch Service Bulletins I have and compiling a folder with any that references SP80/81 or PM800/805/850 but it will be a large file. Anyone interested can send a PM with your e-mail address and I will forward it along when I finish.

Mark

I managed to look through all the Service Bulletins I have on the computer and have sent them along to those that expressed an interest. These were all scanned or copied from microfiche some where along the way, I think Modified Mark sent me most of them but I apologize if in fact it was someone else and I have misplaced the credit.

I don't have any before 1689 or after 1923, and missing 1792-1801 in the middle of what I do have.

If anyone else has any additional Service Bulleting compilations I would be happy to continue the catalog. Be aware, the ones I have already for the 8s cc saws amount to 8.5 MB or so.

Mark
 
PM being sent your way for the service buletins.





Yeah. I already have too much money tied up in this project. Between aquiring the saw and buying parts, I have about $213 in the PM 800 restoration. There is no way I could justify a $100 more for a clutch cover.

I'm with you. Mine will just remain broken, although I may grind off the "points". For those who can weld, like leeha, promac610 and others, welding and grinding is an option but for me it is just a nusiance job for the machine/welding shop and is accordingly rather expensive. Ron
 
I'm with you. Mine will just remain broken, although I may grind off the "points". For those who can weld, like leeha, promac610 and others, welding and grinding is an option but for me it is just a nusiance job for the machine/welding shop and is accordingly rather expensive. Ron

My FIL is a machinest, so that work is all free.
 
We finished up the big locust tree last night, it was still quite warm so at a certain point I was forced to tie a bandanna around my head as a sweat band.

Still running the SP105, oiler had a little trouble keeping up but I have a bunch of new parts at home so I will likely have to pull it all apart again and completely rebuild the automatic oil pump.

192129d1311687064-dscn4729-jpg


We gave up on manipulating the big rounds into the splitter and just noodled a couple to more manageable pieces.

192130d1311687066-dscn4726-jpg


Why are these guys smiling? WE'RE DONE!

192131d1311687068-dscn4730-jpg


Why am I not smiling? I'M DONE.

192132d1311687071-dscn4731-jpg


The big load to haul home, tonight I have to unload and stack it myself.

192133d1311687073-dscn4732-jpg


Mark
 
Last edited:
Kyle -

What does a 1-76 clutch have to do with ME?

Confused,
The Nut

Wow, serious brain fart there. :dizzy: Don't know why I targeted the guy who doesn't need one. Shows that prolonged exposure to stale 5+ year old gas in a tank of a 1-76 can cause brain farts, major ones too...

Who is the guy that needed the clutch? Dammit, I forget. :bang:

I know you're out there... where are you? Some reason slipknot comes to mind... It might be him... I'll pm him.
 
Wow, serious brain fart there. :dizzy: Don't know why I targeted the guy who doesn't need one. Shows that prolonged exposure to stale 5+ year old gas in a tank of a 1-76 can cause brain farts, major ones too...

Who is the guy that needed the clutch? Dammit, I forget. :bang:

I know you're out there... where are you? Some reason slipknot comes to mind... It might be him... I'll pm him.

Proof positive once again that you should always keep a lit road flare in the shop at all times to clear the place of fumes ...:msp_thumbsup:
 
Hey guys,

Working on a little mac 140 for a friend, went through the carb and got it running real nice. But, as soon as some bar oil is put in she burns right through it! We're talking oil geyser off the chain. :dizzy: When I had it apart I was surprised to see what I guess is the oil pump, thought these were manual pump only. I think a diaphragm in the pump must be bad. Did a quick search but didn't find any thing to rebuild the pump. Any reason you can't just block the crank case port and just use the manual oil pump in the tank? Appreciate any help.
 
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