McCulloch Chain Saws

[RandyMac]

There are very few truly new innovations, mostly added on new age junk. I remember some kid was carrying on about how old my Super 250 was, saying it lacked the modern vertical cylinder, so I posted a pic of a 3-25.

 

[Eccentric]

There are very few truly new innovations, mostly added on new age junk. I remember some kid was carrying on about how old my Super 250 was, saying it lacked the modern vertical cylinder, so I posted a pic of a 3-25.

Yep. I've read posts where guys have asked when the "old" reed valve engines were replaced with "modern" piston-port engines. Piston-port 2-strokes were the first 2-stroke engines. They came around at the turn of the last century. I've seen several 2-stroke stationary engines from the early 1910's. ALL were piston port. Reed valves weren't developed until decades later. On motorcycles, the first 2-strokes (in the 1950's) were piston port. Reed valve engines didn't come into widespread use on motorcycles until the 1970's. It all goes in circles.....

 

[HeRoze]

Anybody seen this, the rod cap is not straight, it looks broken and I believe is cast that way. After it is hardened they break the cap off the rod and they are a matched set. You can see that the surface is not machined or flat.


You can see in the picture that the cap is very rough on the flat surface. When I went to re-install the cap it wouldn't fit correctly. A closer look and placing the cap on the opposite way they were a perfect match.

What do you think?

Good to know - thanks for sharing. the piston rod and cap are a matched set. so no mixing and matching without a lot of due dilligence.

 

[briantutt]

10-10 Coil picture?

Does anyone have a 10-10 Auto in a state where a picture of the coil and wires can be easily taken? I forgot to snap a picture and now don't know what wire goes where. :msp_unsure:

I did get the new rings and seals installed, case is buttoned up waiting for Moto-seal to cure. Points area is next I suppose...

 

[heimannm]

This is the best I can do today.

There are only two terminals and three wires attached to the coil other that the spark plug wire.

One terminal is common to both the primary and secondary windings and connects to ground.

The other terminal is to opposite end of the primary windings and connects to the ignition (points/condenser) and the other connects to the kill switch.

Mark

 

[briantutt]

This is the best I can do today.

There are only two terminals and three wires attached to the coil other that the spark plug wire.

One terminal is common to both the primary and secondary windings and connects to ground.

The other terminal is to opposite end of the primary windings and connects to the ignition (points/condenser) and the other connects to the kill switch.

Mark

This is good enough. Now that I see even the service manual picture it makes more sense.

Thank you Mark,

Brian

 

[wendell]

Picked up a 44 today. Is there an easy way to tell which version I got?

 

[OREGONLOGGER]

Picked up a 44 today. Is there an easy way to tell which version I got?

Sure the D-44 version 77cc tuna can muffler left side starter. Super 44 is 87cc goofy foot starter(right side) tuna can muffler with chrome protector plate and full wrap. Super 44A is a different ball game which is gear drive full wrap handle and supports a nice kart engine and sought after by collectors...nice score with any of those indeed.

 

[wendell]

The picture Acres has of the D-44 shows a right hand starter. Did they come with either?

 

[Steve NW WI]

The picture Acres has of the D-44 shows a right hand starter. Did they come with either?

Pic from Wendell's ebay/cl post:

I'm no McPro, but looking at the front handle mounts, I'm going with a D-44. My Super 44 has the crossbar style handlebar mounts vs the 2 small mounts you have, and pictured on Acres. From the Acres specs, D44=2" bore, S44=2 1/8 bore. S44A is 2 1/8 bore also, but 1.5" stroke vs 1 3/8 on the other two. 44 series=direct drive, 55 series are their gear drive brothers.

I might have some parts for you down the road if I need to turn the S44 or S55 into a parts saw to make the other one run, but hope to make both of them runners.

 

[Eccentric]

Sure the D-44 version 77cc tuna can muffler left side starter. Super 44 is 87cc goofy foot starter(right side) tuna can muffler with chrome protector plate and full wrap. Super 44A is a different ball game which is gear drive full wrap handle and supports a nice kart engine and sought after by collectors...nice score with any of those indeed.

D44 is RH start like the later Super 44 and Super 44A. They're all direct drive. The gear drive versions were the 55 and Super 55. D44 was 77cc. S44 was 80cc. S44A was 87cc. Folks have seen 55's converted to DD and 44's converted to gear drive (parts swap right over), so that has caused confusion. A fellow can convert these saws to LH start with a bit of parts swapping too. I just helped a member here convert his S44A engine to LH start for use on a Kart. Sent him a 1-76 flywheel cover, a 250 starter, and a 250 flywheel. He had to have the backside of the 250 flywheel machined to clear the crankcase cover on the S44A engine. A vintage kart expert helped him get the flywheel squared away (as he'd done the same swap before).

Pic from Wendell's ebay/cl post:

I'm no McPro, but looking at the front handle mounts, I'm going with a D-44. My Super 44 has the crossbar style handlebar mounts vs the 2 small mounts you have, and pictured on Acres. From the Acres specs, D44=2" bore, S44=2 1/8 bore. S44A is 2 1/8 bore also, but 1.5" stroke vs 1 3/8 on the other two. 44 series=direct drive, 55 series are their gear drive brothers.

I might have some parts for you down the road if I need to turn the S44 or S55 into a parts saw to make the other one run, but hope to make both of them runners.

I think you're right Steve. The Super 44 I looked at recently had the crossbar handlebar mount setup as well. There should be block numbers on the underside of the saw that will help us out here.

 

[Brian13]

Sure the D-44 version 77cc tuna can muffler left side starter. Super 44 is 87cc goofy foot starter(right side) tuna can muffler with chrome protector plate and full wrap. Super 44A is a different ball game which is gear drive full wrap handle and supports a nice kart engine and sought after by collectors...nice score with any of those indeed.

D44 is RH start like the later Super 44 and Super 44A. They're all direct drive. The gear drive versions were the 55 and Super 55. D44 was 77cc. S44 was 80cc. S44A was 87cc. Folks have seen 55's converted to DD and 44's converted to gear drive (parts swap right over), so that has caused confusion. A fellow can convert these saws to LH start with a bit of parts swapping too. I just helped a member here convert his S44A engine to LH start for use on a Kart. Sent him a 1-76 flywheel cover, a 250 starter, and a 250 flywheel. He had to have the backside of the 250 flywheel machined to clear the crankcase cover on the S44A engine. A vintage kart expert helped him get the flywheel squared away (as he'd done the same swap before).



I think you're right Steve. The Super 44 I looked at recently had the crossbar handlebar mount setup as well. There should be block numbers on the underside of the saw that will help us out here.

And to add to that the S44A is not a kart engine. It is similar to the MC10, but the porting is different.

 

[8433jeff]

Good to know - thanks for sharing. the piston rod and cap are a matched set. so no mixing and matching without a lot of due dilligence.

No mixing and matching at all. Should be replaced as a set. If you find a good rod, the cap is good also. If you have a broken rod, the cap is scrap also.
I can't think of an exception to this if you plan on running the saw. A shelf queen wouldn't need such attention.

 

[OREGONLOGGER]

D44 is RH start like the later Super 44 and Super 44A. They're all direct drive. The gear drive versions were the 55 and Super 55. D44 was 77cc. S44 was 80cc. S44A was 87cc. Folks have seen 55's converted to DD and 44's converted to gear drive (parts swap right over), so that has caused confusion. A fellow can convert these saws to LH start with a bit of parts swapping too. I just helped a member here convert his S44A engine to LH start for use on a Kart. Sent him a 1-76 flywheel cover, a 250 starter, and a 250 flywheel. He had to have the backside of the 250 flywheel machined to clear the crankcase cover on the S44A engine. A vintage kart expert helped him get the flywheel squared away (as he'd done the same swap before).



I think you're right Steve. The Super 44 I looked at recently had the crossbar handlebar mount setup as well. There should be block numbers on the underside of the saw that will help us out here.

Thanks E,....I ment right side on the D-44 lot of spec's on those 44/55 formats that I need to remember and all the parts that will fit..good stuff!!

 

[Wolfcsm]

MAC 10-10 quesrion

I have an older 10-10. Needs a clutch. See a number of clutches for sale on ebay, but not sure of which one I need to buy and install.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Hal

 

[joeymt33]

From my experience, any clutch from a 10-10, 700, or any 10 series will fit. Also any of the 600 series will fit like the 610.

 

[heimannm]

Some 10 Series saws were right hand start, most left hand start. The clutches are basically the same except that the right hand start clutch spiders also have some rivets (pivots actually) and the starter pawls and springs. Even if you get a RH starter clutch, you can knock the rivets out and remove the pawls and use the same clutch. All of the spiders have the holes for the pawl pivots.

All of the 10 Series except the SP80/81, and all of the 600 Series saws (605, 610, 650, PM5700, etc.) use the same clutch and drum. There are drums with the small spline, drums with the large spline, drums with spur sprockets (7T .375 and 7T .404) and drums with a rim sprocket welded in place (no spline) but all of those I've ever seen are .354, a McCulloch wildcat pitch.

Some clutches have keys, some do not. If you saw has a right hand thread you must have a key in the clutch, if you clutch nut is left hand thread the key is not necessary.

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

Some 10 Series saws were right hand start, most left hand start. The clutches are basically the same except that the right hand start clutch spiders also have some rivets (pivots actually) and the starter pawls and springs. Even if you get a RH starter clutch, you can knock the rivets out and remove the pawls and use the same clutch. All of the spiders have the holes for the pawl pivots.

All of the 10 Series except the SP80/81, and all of the 600 Series saws (605, 610, 650, PM5700, etc.) use the same clutch and drum. There are drums with the small spline, drums with the large spline, drums with spur sprockets (7T .375 and 7T .404) and drums with a rim sprocket welded in place (no spline) but all of those I've ever seen are .354, a McCulloch wildcat pitch.

Some clutches have keys, some do not. If you saw has a right hand thread you must have a key in the clutch, if you clutch nut is left hand thread the key is not necessary.

Mark

Do the rest of the 82cc Macs (PM800-850, DE80) use the same clutch setup as the SP-80/81?

 

[rwoods]

Do the rest of the 82cc Macs (PM800-850, DE80) use the same clutch setup as the SP-80/81?

Aaron, I believe there is something unique about a SP80. The others should all interchange. See: MCCULLOCH clutch 605 610 650 655 690 10-10 800 700 3.7 | eBay Ron

 

[Eccentric]

Aaron, I believe there is something unique about a SP80. The others should all interchange. See: MCCULLOCH clutch 605 610 650 655 690 10-10 800 700 3.7 | eBay Ron

Interesting Ron. Now I need to know what to look for if I need clutch parts for my SP-81. Everything's fine in there now......knock on wood...