McCulloch Chain Saws

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Thanks, Lee.

You and Randy are confirming what I had previously said about these tanks but my conclusions were challenged. Since my assumptions/conclusions have been wrong many times on many things I am trying to slow down, listen more and learn more before I just plunge into something. Good recent example: I just toasted my favorite saw by getting it too lean. Although I can't hear the four stoking all you tuners do, after reaching my tune I could/should have screwed the high all the way in and counted the revolutions just to check (I normally do this but I was in a hurry) - I checked after melting my piston and I found it to be only about 8/10ths of a turn which I knew from reading (and now know by experience) is too lean for my saw. In hindsight, I think I accidentially leaned it 2/10ths of a turn after reaching my tune when I meant to richen it 2/10ths.

I still need to resolve the clearance issues with my kart build, either by finding a 35mm single pump carb, converting my double pumper or modifying the intake.

Ron
 
Sorry to here about your burned up saw Ron.

I think the carb you want is a Mac # 69817
It's a BDC but not sure which BDC. Has the
35mm throttle bore. I have an NOS one i plan
on using for my 101-125 build like your doing.
I just need the 101 motor.:msp_sad:



Lee
 
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Does any1 know a modern paint code number for a decent mac yellow

IF you have a paint gun like the pros do, go to Google and enter this: 'yellow modifiedmark paint code site:arboristsite.com' (without quotes) to search this site (search has been broken here awhile). Mark posted a code for Valspar (I think) that is very close.

IF yo are using rattle-can technology, Rust-Oleum has a Sunburst or Sunshine yellow that is very close. You'd want to be sure to bake it or otherwise allow it to dry out for as long as you could in low-humidity area. Many members here may be able to help with that issue. You might want to follow up with clear engine or header enamel.

Good luck!
 
Lee, what uses that carb? That number doesn't show up in my 101 IPLs. Google just send me back here. Thanks, Ron


I have no idea as to the correct application for this 69817 carb.
It could be a BDC14, I know it's not a BDC22 as the 22 has a
smaller bore size.
You should be able to find one on ebay as they pop up all the time.
karts and Parts in Canada would be another choice to find one.



Lee
 
Thanks for posting the diagrams, Mr. BowSaw.

Lee, I found a BDC14 in Canada but I am not sure if it has a 35 mm bore. It might not make any difference now as I've spent the afternoon toying in my head in a different direction than that taken by the man down under. I want an air filter in addition to the big carb but there is only so much room available while retaining stock appearance - I may just use the tank as the airbox and come up with a tank alternative.
Ron
 
Hey guys! I haven't been much of a Mac collector, so my knowledge is very limited. So, I'm asking you guys what I've bought here. It's said to be a 797. Is there a 797 and a 797 Super? Any other things you can pick out from the pics?

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I was watching that auction Brad. You paid a good bit of coin for a saw you're unsure about. Looking at the saw, I'd say it's a Super 797. I can see a DSP lever (compression release). That makes it a 795, 797, or Super 797. The yellow tank top, and the yellow AF cover with the narrow label recess cast into it point to a S-797, but those parts can be easily interchanged, and may have been on other 700/800 series models.

Once you get it, pull the AF cover. A S-797 should have a Walbro SDC and an adaptor. A "regular" 797, or a 795 would have a Tillotson HL or a McCulloch/Walbor "flatback" carb. Numbers from the block are the best identifyer, as others have said. Bore and stroke measurements will also seperate it from a 795.
 
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I was watching that auction Brad. You paid a good bit of coin for a saw you're unsure about. Looking at the saw, I'd say it's a Super 797. I can see a DSP lever (compression release). That makes it a 795, 797, or Super 797. The yellow tank top, and the yellow AF cover with the narrow label recess cast into it point to a S-797, but those parts can be easily interchanged, and may have been on other 700/800 series models.

Once you get it, pull the AF cover. A S-797 should have a Walbro SDC and an adaptor. A "regular" 797, or a 795 would have a Tillotson HL or a McCulloch/Walbor "flatback" carb. Numbers from the block are the best identifyer, as others have said. Bore and stroke measurements will also sepperrate it from a 795.

The seller looks reputable, and I don't have any reason to doubt that it's a 797. It's just that I don't know a lot about them. I want one of the big Mac 123s and this one is really clean. I understand the 797 is at the top of the heap, of course, shy of a 101B saw! I've asked the seller for the SN. The first thing I'll do is measure the bore. If it's a 795, I'll be sending it back.
 
The seller looks reputable, and I don't have any reason to doubt that it's a 797. It's just that I don't know a lot about them. I want one of the big Mac 123s and this one is really clean. I understand the 797 is at the top of the heap, of course, shy of a 101B saw! I've asked the seller for the SN. The first thing I'll do is measure the bore. If it's a 795, I'll be sending it back.

Good plan. Looks like a really clean saw. Seems to be in better shape than the 797 that went for $200 more a few days earlier too.
 
If not the 797, what saws are the 101B blocks usually put into? Basically, just curious what's involved in building a hot rod. If not this saw, another one. Wouldn't want to do anything to kill the value of this one either.
 
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