McCulloch Chain Saws

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Jim,
My dad bought this wood splitter back in 1975. I got it from him in 1982.
It had a 18hp Kohler engine on it. It has had two cylinders put on, 5 valves,
many hose's,Second blade on it and welded many times About 6 engines over the years.
It has a hand crank rope winch to fold it up for moving or towing.
It now has a Onan two cylinder 24hp engine.

A pic from 1982
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This pic a few years ago.
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This is my other splitter, it has a bigger cylinder and pump. With a 40hp engine.
It folds up too.
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24" ash was a good canadate for the 32" bar on the super 250.

I do have a question on carb settings on this saw. What would be a good ballpark figure for how many turns out the H and L screws be? It seems to be to rich on the high end bit idles ok. It has the Mac flatback carb.
 
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A pic from 1982
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That's awesome!! Thanks for the pics. I don't think I split quite as much as you ;) I generally split the straight stuff with a maul and either noodle or borrow a splitter for the tough ones. But I hate to borrow stuff and hope to get or make my own splitter in a year or three.
Thanks again. :cheers:
 
Around 1 turn out on the H, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 on the L.

Don't get too excited listening to it out of the cut, you must set it for maximum power in the cut.

Best sound/higest speed out of the cut will be too lean when you are cutting.

Mark

Interesting that its different from the modren saws, but you learn something new everyday. Thanks! :cheers:
 
I'm heading back to Argentina tomorrow, College Station Texas the following week.

Now you guys keep the McCulloch thread going while I'm gone, I will do my best to check in from time to time...

Mark

P.S. While cleaning up the saws after last weekend's work, I replace the full wrap handle on the SP81 with one from a PM800 saw. This required drilling a couple of holes (the bolt hole orientation on the PM800 is 90° different than the SP81 saws) but now I can get the clutch cover on and off without having to take the top screw out of the handle. It makes the saw a bit wider, but much easier to work on now.
 
I have an old Pro Mac 605, half queen and half work horse, just got it off my bench with a carb. rebuild. Has been under the bench for awhile til I found all the small parts that she needed to get her back up and running, fuel line, throttle lever, etc.. Got it from a friend 5 years ago and never even tried to start it, well it was free and I already had a saw running to cut with. Gave it a good cleaning and now looks almost new.
 
I'm heading back to Argentina tomorrow, College Station Texas the following week.

Now you guys keep the McCulloch thread going while I'm gone, I will do my best to check in from time to time...

Mark

P.S. While cleaning up the saws after last weekend's work, I replace the full wrap handle on the SP81 with one from a PM800 saw. This required drilling a couple of holes (the bolt hole orientation on the PM800 is 90° different than the SP81 saws) but now I can get the clutch cover on and off without having to take the top screw out of the handle. It makes the saw a bit wider, but much easier to work on now.

Have a safe trip Mark, and bring back some Mctreasures.

My SP-81 full wrap doesn't hinder clutch cover removal to the point that I need to remove any handlebar bolts. It is tight, and requires some careful manipulation of the cover though. I have the older 'rounded' non-CB cover (like what's seen on SP-80's) on mine however. I saw that your saw has the 'square' profile CB cover. I have one of those on the shelf, but will probably never use it.
 
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Anybody ever intentionally split a SP125 tank apart?

Nasty outside today, so I dismantled my toasted PM800 and worked on the SP125 tank that Ambull graciously gave me to carve up for the kart project. I got the screws out of the SP125 tank, removed the JB Weld and aftermarket glue and have cleared the outside seam all the way around. I haven't removed any of the original interior "glue" as it appears to be as hard as the tank. Now what? I don't want to break the tank while trying to pry it apart. Thanks, Ron

Bonus question: Can a double pumper SDC16 be converted to a single pumper with the existing parts? I can't maintain a stock appearance with the double pumper as it is just too thick to fit.
 
Nasty outside today, so I dismantled my toasted PM800 and worked on the SP125 tank that Ambull graciously gave me to carve up for the kart project. I got the screws out of the SP125 tank, removed the JB Weld and aftermarket glue and have cleared the outside seam all the way around. I haven't removed any of the original interior "glue" as it appears to be as hard as the tank. Now what? I don't want to break the tank while trying to pry it apart. Thanks, Ron

Bonus question: Can a double pumper SDC16 be converted to a single pumper with the existing parts? I can't maintain a stock appearance with the double pumper as it is just too thick to fit.

Could you sand or bead blast the rest of the glue away? Or perhaps some solvent would attack the glue and soften it up given enough time? Can you score the glue with a utility knife? Is there a way to take a rubber mallet and give one half of the assembly a solid blow to the tank in a spot that you would not worry about cracking it? Perhaps hit a dowel inserted into the gas cap hole?

Good luck!
 
Thanks. The JB Weld was no problem for a dental pick. The other epoxy scraped off easily with a small screwdriver. Neither would make a dent in the MAC glue ooze. I say ooze because it appears the tank halves are fitted with a tongue and groove - I have taken the outside seam down to metal with the dental pick. Before I start to beat on the tank, I'll wait a little longer to see if any one has ever dismantled one. Ron
 
Thanks. The JB Weld was no problem for a dental pick. The other epoxy scraped off easily with a small screwdriver. Neither would make a dent in the MAC glue ooze. I say ooze because it appears the tank halves are fitted with a tongue and groove - I have taken the outside seam down to metal with the dental pick. Before I start to beat on the tank, I'll wait a little longer to see if any one has ever dismantled one. Ron

Maybe you should simmer it in some real hot water for half an hour??? I could help


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Mac 15 oil pump woes

Is this oil pump missing something?, pressing the plunger the oil just goes in and out the inlet hole, it's not pumping oil down the outlet hole.
The check valve is working, the O ring is good, my IPL doesn't show the pump disassembled

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I don't think those SP tanks were meant to come apart. The old 790/890 series do rather easily.

That is my impression, but some seem to think otherwise - that is why I am waiting for someone who has actually done it to step forward. Some pre-Ambull owner of this tank had a leak as the exterior seam has been plastered with epoxy and JB Weld; part of the interior as been epoxied as well where you can see the MAC ooze is missing. It would be easier for me to do the necessary mods if the tank was dismantled, but I am not going to risk breaking it just because some think it can come apart. Ron
 
I poked a hole in a SP tank, thought I could just get a new top part, but had to buy the whole assembly.

I think I still have an SP tank layin' around, if I find it, I see what is what.
 
Ron, Those 125 tanks are not mean't to come appart.
The IPL shows a tank kit. It is a complete unit all glued
together. I'm not sure what glue Mac used but it is some
tuff stuff. My experience with these tanks is if it has been
repaired at the seem then there was probably corrosion
in the tank. I have replaced 2 because of this. Best bet
is to find a good tank and modify it for your project
without splitting it appart.



Lee
 
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