McCulloch Chain Saws

[Modifiedmark]

ModifiedMark, good find, and local too. I have a "normal" SDC if you want to simplify that carb. PM me if interested. Free gratas!

Here is mine w/ 20" hard nose bar. Feals lighter than my 028S but I use the S due to having a chain break. Just my personal preference.

Anyway have fun with your latest project.

-Ozzie

Thanks for the offer but I think I'm good with this carb, might get it off tomorrow and find out.

Banks of the Wabash huh? What part?

 

[Duke Thieroff]

It is possible to service the automatic oil pump simply by removing the cover from the oil tank. The only reason to remove the fuel tank is if there is a problem with the manual oiler or inlet check valve, or to replace the pick up line.

The o-ring in the oil pump doesn't really do a lot in the way of closing off the oil passage, it is just there to stabilize what they call the piston ring.

Mark

Do you have any insight on exactly what will need to be done in order to correct this?

Good stuff Mark! A member here (who I won't name......he can speak up if he wants to) has a PM850 that we've been chatting back and forth about (when not flinging insults and jabs.......he's a character). He's having the exact same issue as you're having with that PM800. Bar oil is getting into the crankcase, mostly when he hits the manual oiler. I told him to pull the tank front and unbolt the auto oiler pump, as the base gasket for the pump is most likely letting oil get drawn/forced into the impulse passage. Thought the o-ring inside the pump may be leaking too (or instead of the gasket). I haven't pulled one of those apart for a long time. The pump is held to the roof of the oil tank by one bolt that's accessable with the tank cover off correct? The 10-series service manual says to remove the fuel tank when working on the auto oiler. Is that really needed?

Hey, those "insults" and "jabs" are usually called "compliments" and "friendly statements" around here. Don't know if that's a lefty California thing you're going through.




Chris

 

[Eccentric]

I see he finaly decided to "come out" and discuss his lubricant issue. 0419 for you eh Dook? 0119 here. About ready to hit the hay.

I still think the auto oiler pump gasket is your issue. That gasket surrounds a large impulse passage, and the pump is only held on by one screw. Pull that cover!

 

[Brian13]

The 7-10 I have has the extra holes plugged with the nylon inserts. I think the points are too tight on mine. Not running well.

On another note, I saw "Once a Great Notion" after reading about it here. Cool movie, More than a couple Macs I would like to have in there:msp_smile:.

 

[cpr]

I traveled over to Northeast Iowa today (Little Switzerland) to help some friends cut a little wood. Beautiful farm tucked back in a large valley, several spring fed streams wandering through, trout in a tank, and lots and lots of trees. They had a few logs drug out, weather has been too warm lately to let them get serious about dragging logs out so they only had a few red elm, walnut, some miscellaneous elm, and log piece of cherry.

I used my PM800, one of the SP81's, a pair of Titan 57's, and the Dolmar 7900; I hade a couple other saw along including one of my SP105's but we didn't that today.

I still have some work to do on the PM800, a little bar oil is being forced into the crank case when you work the manual oiler and I will have to replace the manual oiler on one of the Titan 57's but at lease everything started and ran very well. The SP81 is pure joy to run (make sure you have your hearing protection), in fact is seems a bit stronger than the PM800. It's probably not a good idea to run the Titan's after running the 7900 but I wanted to compare the two 57's each with 18" bars, one dressed with 3/8 chain and one with .325. Based on the first test I'd say 3/8 is the way to go but I'll compare them again after touching up both chains by filing.

Mark

Looks like a great time. Was that Super Duty a V10? If so, I had the exact same truck down to the running boards, color, everything. I put a Borla no-cat back on and a K&N cold air intake on. Never was finished doing what I wanted to do to it. I actually miss that truck more than my Powerstroke...

Those were the days. Back when I was young and dumb...

 

[heimannm]

Charles - I drive a Ranger so I don't even notice the bigger trucks...

Eccentric - I assume that the check valve in the automatic pump gets stuck, it's just a 3/32" diameter steel ball with a spring and the passages in there are pretty small. Older 10 Series saws had a metal clip that you would spring into place to fix the bottom edge of the automatic oil pump, some later models had a metal clip on the top of the pump that would contact the oil tank to put some additional pressure on the bottom of the automatic oil pump to insure a good seal. If I happen to think of it while I am in the shop this week I'll post some photos of both set ups.

Last weekend Jeff (older son) and I were checking out a few of his 600 saws and had one that would not oil. While those are different from the 10 Series, the way the oiler work is very similar with a manual and pulse operated automatic pump. The inlet check valve is just like the 10 Series, in fact the same disc is used on both. I haven't found the outlet check valve in the 600 Series saws; I assume it is built in to the pump body and is not designed to be disassembled. In the end we discovered that the bar oil in the line had turned to very stiff jello and would not allow the oil to be drawn into the pump. We were able to fish the pick up tube out of the tank and blow air back through the line to clear it. He lost the check valve (disc) but I had a spare in the small parts cabinet.

By the way, that disc is 0.300" diameter x 0.060" thick phenolic on the older ones, thinner aluminum on the new part numbers. If anyone has access to some slugs punched out of aluminum or plastic that are the correct diameter, I would be interested in having some additional spares.

Mark

 

[Steve NW WI]

Mark, I'll keep my eyes peeled at work for ya.

If .312 diameter would work, can whip some up most anytime with a hand punch and some scrap.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Discovery?

I may have stumbled onto something while working on the 3-25. The fuel pump diaphragm was stiff as a board and I was attempting to separate it from the gasket so I decided to give it a soak in the ultrasonic. I had a 50:50 mixture of mineral spirits and brake fluid in the tank as I was soaking the two diaphram chambers to get paint off. Forgot about it until the next day. Surprisingly, the diaphragm came out very soft and pliable but not falling apart. The rubber looked fine but was still too wrinkled to use, so I thought I'd see what it would do to the metering diaphragm- also very stiff. Same thing - nice and pliable now. I'm going leave both set a few days - maybe soak in some mix to see how they hold up.

Has anyone tried this for hard to find diaphragms?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Almost forgot, here's the fuel tank done. I still have the masking on the fill hole.

 

[leeha]

Lookin good Buzz,
Nice info on the diaphrams.


Lee

 

[joeymt33]

I may have stumbled onto something while working on the 3-25. The fuel pump diaphragm was stiff as a board and I was attempting to separate it from the gasket so I decided to give it a soak in the ultrasonic. I had a 50:50 mixture of mineral spirits and brake fluid in the tank as I was soaking the two diaphram chambers to get paint off. Forgot about it until the next day. Surprisingly, the diaphragm came out very soft and pliable but not falling apart. The rubber looked fine but was still too wrinkled to use, so I thought I'd see what it would do to the metering diaphragm- also very stiff. Same thing - nice and pliable now. I'm going leave both set a few days - maybe soak in some mix to see how they hold up.

Has anyone tried this for hard to find diaphragms?

I have used lemon juice and water trick before and it always works great. I done it a while back an the saws still run great. But I've never heard of this one. Ive never had any luck with the ultrasonic cleaners, is it because I used a cheap one from harbor freight?

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have used lemon juice and water trick before and it always works great. I done it a while back an the saws still run great. But I've never heard of this one. Ive never had any luck with the ultrasonic cleaners, is it because I used a cheap one from harbor freight?

I didn't have the cleaner running for the most part - I think it was the brake fluid that did the trick. How does the lemon juice work - what mix? Just leave it soak?

 

[Warped5]

I have used lemon juice and water trick before and it always works great. I done it a while back an the saws still run great. But I've never heard of this one. Ive never had any luck with the ultrasonic cleaners, is it because I used a cheap one from harbor freight?

A USC will give the best result when the parts being cleaned are suspended in a basket or glass container. If the parts are allowed to rest on the bottom, the effectiveness of the cleaner isn't as good.

I didn't have the cleaner running for the most part - I think it was the brake fluid that did the trick. How does the lemon juice work - what mix? Just leave it soak?

Mark H posted it awhile ago and some members have said it works well. IIRC, he never gave a mix 'ratio,' just add a capful to a few ounces of water and allow to soak.

 

[promac850]

Took the cover off, and used a syringe to draw out all of bar oil and dispense it into a bar oil container...

Then pulled this off...

what bothers me is I can't figure out why the yellow painted screw is on the oiler assembly... As I recall, Mark H. said these oilers only needed to be held on by one bolt. This one was only threaded into the oiler assembly and not into the oil tank case. The silver/green screw sitting under the oiler is the one that was holding it on. The other silver/green one is the oiler flow adjustment screw. Maybe I just put the yellow one in there since there was no where else to put it. I can't remember if that's why it is there or not...

As for the mounting surface/gasket, it looks okay to me.

When I pushed on the manual oiler, it pumped some oil back into the case.

What else do I need to look at? Do I disassemble the oiler itself and look in there/clean it out? It doesn't look too complicated to me after looking at the IPL.



For those with interest in it, the Ranger is at the shop now... it should be getting a clutch either today or tomorrow. The guy there said it sounded like the pressure plate release fingers were overheating and failing to pull the pressure plate off of the clutch disk. Since I've been hearing some screeching/squealing noise (I knew I wasn't crazy...) from what I suspected to be the throwout bearing, this makes pretty good sense to me.

 

[heimannm]

The yellow screw is not supposed to be there, if it was threaded in too far it would lift the back of the automatic oil pump and allow bar oil to pass into the crank case.

The fact that the manual oiler forces oil back into the tank indicates the check valve is not working, you might be able to spray some WD40 or something similar up through the oil line to try and clean / unstick the valve. Oil or air if you use compressed air should flow freely from the pick up tube through the manual pump and discharge back through one of the small holes under the automatic oil pump. Once you identify the correct port, try blowing compressed air back the other way, the check valve should not allow flow back the other way. If you get flow back from the opening in the tank to the pick up line, you will have no choice but to pull the tank off and remove the manual pump again to see what's happening with the check valve.

Mark

 

[OldDeadWood]

McCulloch 110

The notorious 110.

View attachment 216273

This is the junk, lousy, worthless 110 I complained about a couple weeks ago.

Well, maybe it's not so bad after all.

Three days ago I stumbled over it while I was looking for something else and later on I pulled it out and put it on the bench. I completely disassembled it, reset the pionts, cleaned out the carb and roughly reset the high and low jets. I pored in some fuel mix and chain oil and took ker out back. After about ten pulls I figured it was still junk, but I gave her a couple more pulls and she cackled a little. I put the choke back to half and after a couple more pulls she fired up. I ran her for a bit while I played with the jets and she was running better and better. Now in the morning when she's cold it take six or eight pulls to get her going and after that she will start on the first or second pull.

I don't know what I did to fix her or if she'll quit tomarrow but for right now I'm not calling her all the names I was a while ago.

McC 110 Video[video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view&current=MOV0110McC.mp4[/video]

 

[rwoods]

Kyle, is that ultra thick and sticky bar oil I am seeing or has someone used silicone around the gasket? If it is silicone, I would remove it. Ron

 

[leeha]

Kyle, is that ultra thick and sticky bar oil I am seeing or has someone used silicone around the gasket? If it is silicone, I would remove it. Ron

Looks like blue silicone to me.
Maybe some got into the oil ports.




Lee

 

[madrone]

The yellow screw is not supposed to be there, if it was threaded in too far it would lift the back of the automatic oil pump and allow bar oil to pass into the crank case.

The fact that the manual oiler forces oil back into the tank indicates the check valve is not working, you might be able to spray some WD40 or something similar up through the oil line to try and clean / unstick the valve. Oil or air if you use compressed air should flow freely from the pick up tube through the manual pump and discharge back through one of the small holes under the automatic oil pump. Once you identify the correct port, try blowing compressed air back the other way, the check valve should not allow flow back the other way. If you get flow back from the opening in the tank to the pick up line, you will have no choice but to pull the tank off and remove the manual pump again to see what's happening with the check valve.

Mark

I've been working out some oiler problems on my sp81 and was interested in this post.

I think Promac610 is saying that with the oiler removed, the manual oiler forces oil back to the tank.
Mark, I think you're saying this is normal (via the oiler port). The problem is if the plunger does this (with the oiler installed) and oil flows backwards through the uptake.

I may have it confused though.....

 

[heimannm]

There is a check valve between the pick up line and the manual pump. If the check valve is working, it should not push oil back down the pick up tube.

Mark