McCulloch Chain Saws

[wyk]

380 or 250 super?

What's the difference between these other than manufacture dates? They seem very similar on paper. Do they act similar?

 

[heimannm]

That's a good question. I expect Randy Mac would tell us the Super 250 has more aggressive porting, I don't have enough practical experience with the two to comment very intellegently. The Super 250 has the automatic oiler and according to my IPL's the 380 and 380A do not have the automatic oiler option.

Again according to the IPL's the 380 and 380A have the McCulloch flat back carburetor with primer, the Super 250 had the flat back with the choke. As with all things McCulloch, there is no such thing as a sure thing...

Mark

 

[cpr]

380s share blocks with 440s. My 440 and my Super 250 are comparable on compression, but the Super has more power and more rpms. The porting must be different. Somewhere around here Brian port-mapped the Super...

 

[RandyMac]

The 300 has a noticeable increase over the 250 and is the motor used in the 650. My main McCulloch dealer, who I would have trusted with my first born, told me that the 660 had the same motor as the Super 250. The Super 250 is faster and stronger than the 300. I did some of my finest work with 87cc McCullochs.

 

[heimannm]

If anyone is interested, I put together a 10 Series McCulloch Oiler thread with lots of photo's out in the chain saw forum.

Mark

 

[promac850]

Kyle, is that ultra thick and sticky bar oil I am seeing or has someone used silicone around the gasket? If it is silicone, I would remove it. Ron

Looks like blue silicone to me.
Maybe some got into the oil ports.


Lee

Silicone. Found it that way.

I've been working out some oiler problems on my sp81 and was interested in this post.

I think Promac610 is saying that with the oiler removed, the manual oiler forces oil back to the tank.
Mark, I think you're saying this is normal (via the oiler port). The problem is if the plunger does this (with the oiler installed) and oil flows backwards through the uptake.

I may have it confused though.....

Yes, oiler is removed...


Thanks for the additional insight everyone.



Yellow Fever News:

Supposed to get the 790 cylinder tomorrow. The place I went to didn't have a hone small enough, so I had to bring it to that boat place that I still have a bad taste in my mouth from previous experience... this is the chance for redemption. If they #### this up, I will never let them live it down...

Problem is my stinking airbrush don't work... so I couldn't lay paint on the few tins that I've already soda blasted. Yes, I thinned out the paint. Quite a bit. Found a bad packing that seals the paint bottle to the fluid control part... that packing, I now need to replace... I don't feel so bad about buying it for 5 bucks instead of 10 like the guy wanted for it... he said it worked when I bought it a few months ago. Maybe it did... 15 years ago...

Guess I should start going through most everything I buy used... rather than let it bite me in the ass when I need it to work...


I gotta cut up as much of the logs I can tomorrow... before this supposed lake effect 6+" harbinger of doom swings around. Neighbor says if the wind is heading in fairly straight from the east, we'll get buried. That would give us a chance to run some snowmobiles and snow blowers... also supposed to get the Danger Ranger back.

During this storm (I hope we gets lots, lots, and lots of snow!) I will probably be freezing me bunghole residence off in the barn working on the 850's oiler. The propane furnace in there is nowhere near as good as the Lopi in our basement...

We'll see if I get trapped in there... Oh, wait, that's impossible. The door opens in... and the Snapper two stage asphalt driveway chunk spitting monster resides in the barn...

Hmm... :biggrinbounce2:

 

[K.C.]

The Yellow Saw Gods smiled upon me last weekend...

I picked up two runners: a 1-43 and a 1-50 from a gent up in the wine country. He got the saws from their original owners - his Father-in-law and his Brother-in-law. That's a great family to marry into right there! He said he was tired of going through the starting ritual with them so he's giving them up, but he's cut alot of wood with them.

They both run but need a little help to get going and the 1-43 probably needs a carb rebuild. One gas cap is missing and both have damaged clutch covers from a likely thrown chain in the past.

The 1-43:

The 1-50 is a screamer and I can't wait to put it into some wood!

So here starts the request for help - can anyone point me towards some shop manuals and IPL's for these saws? Any hints on where to pick up another gas cap and maybe a clutch cover or two? The covers appear almost identical but without the IPL, who knows?

I have to admit, without chain brakes these saws are a bit intimidating to start. Especially the 1-43 with plunger choke, but I just love these old Macs and the sound they make!

 

[Steve NW WI]

By the way, that disc is 0.300" diameter x 0.060" thick phenolic on the older ones, thinner aluminum on the new part numbers. If anyone has access to some slugs punched out of aluminum or plastic that are the correct diameter, I would be interested in having some additional spares.

Mark

Got ya (and anyone else that needs a couple) covered. .048 aluminum x .305 diameter. I punched out 50 or so of em on break tonight on the hand punch, and can always make more if they're real popular.

Mark, I believe I got your addy in your pm, will get a bunch headed your way in the next day or two. Anyone else that wants a couple, PM me your address. Cost is nada, zip, zilch. I've got a bunch o McCs that are gonna need working on when/if the weather turns to real winter, and I'll surely need help from you guys.

 

[Sawchips]

Tillotson carb adaptor 50686A

Hi all,
I posted this in swap meet but haven't had much luck. I'm switching a flat back out for a Tillotson HL on an S-250 and I need the carb spacer / adaptor, 50686A.
Tried calling Bob Johnson but get no answer. I imagine this is his slow time of year and he's probably not at the shop all that much right now.

If you can help please send a P.M.

Got cash & I'm not afraid to use it................with in reason of coarse :msp_biggrin:

 

[Warped5]

Hi all,
I posted this in swap meet but haven't had much luck. I'm switching a flat back out for a Tillotson HL on an S-250 and I need the carb spacer / adaptor, 50686A.
Tried calling Bob Johnson but get no answer. I imagine this is his slow time of year and he's probably not at the shop all that much right now.

If you can help please send a P.M.

Got cash & I'm not afraid to use it................with in reason of coarse :msp_biggrin:

Use Bob's number, but fax it in .... it's trapping season now and that's the only way he can receive orders.

 

[heimannm]

Try calling Bob in the afternoon, close to 5:00 PM Eastern for the best chance to catch him.

If nothing else works out, let me know as I expect I can find one in the attic.

Mark

 

[blsnelling]

What size are the threads for the reed plate on a 125?

 

[heimannm]

The screws that hold the manifold to the crank case are 10-24 x 3/4, the ones that hold the lock plate, stop, and the reeds to the manifold itself are 8-32 x 1/2.

Mark

 

[blsnelling]

The screws that hold the manifold to the crank case are 10-24 x 3/4, the ones that hold the lock plate, stop, and the reeds to the manifold itself are 8-32 x 1/2.

Mark

Thanks Mark. Are the ones that hold the crankcase side cover also 10-24? In not home to check.

 

[heimannm]

Also 10-24 x 3/4 for the crank case cover screws.

I don't remember on the SP125's but on some of the smaller saws a couple of those screws (two out of the six) utilize a smaller hex head (1/4" vs. 5/16" on the standard) with special sealing washers since the tapped holes extend directly into the crank case. These are not shown in the SP105/125 IPL's that I have.

I normally dip the screws in a little silicone before driving them home to insure a good seal. Some will tell you not to use silicone but I've not had any problems with leaks, and they are pretty easy to remove if you have to take the saw apart again.

Mark

 

[blsnelling]

Thanks again Mark. I planned on using blue Loctite, both to seal and to hold tight on these vibrating old beasts.

 

[heimannm]

Vvviibbbbrraaaatiiiinnggg?

 

[Eccentric]

That's a good question. I expect Randy Mac would tell us the Super 250 has more aggressive porting, I don't have enough practical experience with the two to comment very intellegently. The Super 250 has the automatic oiler and according to my IPL's the 380 and 380A do not have the automatic oiler option.

Again according to the IPL's the 380 and 380A have the McCulloch flat back carburetor with primer, the Super 250 had the flat back with the choke. As with all things McCulloch, there is no such thing as a sure thing...

Mark

The 1965 WS Supplement states that the 380A has an auto oiler, but wasn't sold in the US (the US market got the 440 to cover the auto-oiler 87cc saw need instead). The US only got the 380 (non-A). It also states that the 300 replaced the 380/380A, and has an auto oiler. Some S-250's were equipped with the Tillotson HL too. Both carbs are in the IPL. Then there's the 650/660 which could have an HL, primer-flatback, or choke-flatback...

The 300 has a noticeable increase over the 250 and is the motor used in the 650. My main McCulloch dealer, who I would have trusted with my first born, told me that the 660 had the same motor as the Super 250. The Super 250 is faster and stronger than the 300. I did some of my finest work with 87cc McCullochs.

Yep. My 650 has both "650" and "300" stamped on the block. McCulloch should have called the S-250 a Super 300, since it is 87cc (rather than 80cc like a 'regular' 250).

I picked up two runners: a 1-43 and a 1-50 from a gent up in the wine country. He got the saws from their original owners - his Father-in-law and his Brother-in-law. That's a great family to marry into right there! He said he was tired of going through the starting ritual with them so he's giving them up, but he's cut alot of wood with them.

They both run but need a little help to get going and the 1-43 probably needs a carb rebuild. One gas cap is missing and both have damaged clutch covers from a likely thrown chain in the past.

The 1-43:

The 1-50 is a screamer and I can't wait to put it into some wood!

So here starts the request for help - can anyone point me towards some shop manuals and IPL's for these saws? Any hints on where to pick up another gas cap and maybe a clutch cover or two? The covers appear almost identical but without the IPL, who knows?

I have to admit, without chain brakes these saws are a bit intimidating to start. Especially the 1-43 with plunger choke, but I just love these old Macs and the sound they make!

Good score. I saw those saws on our local CL. I really like that 24" roller nose bar on the 1-50. PM me your email address and I will send you the WorkShop manual. I don't think I have the IPL's for those saws however.

 

[heimannm]

Aaron, I am still sitting on theses CD's, please PM me with a current mailing/shipping address and I will get them on the way.

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

Aaron, I am still sitting on theses CD's, please PM me with a current mailing/shipping address and I will get them on the way.

Mark

Thanks Mark. Will PM now...