McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

Both this 120 and the 130 donor had the MDC.

Someone (wish I could remember who it was now) said the Zama kit would would in the MDC and vice versa, I guess Zama copied the MDC so closely that the parts would interchange. I don't have that experience myself, just what I was told.

If I understood correctly, the Zama was more widely used as it was standard in the later saws, I could be wrong.

Just looking at the Zama kit referenced above, sure looks like the MDC kits I have.

Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Found an old Stens catalog, so my not be up to date but the one I used last looks like Stens 615-435 . They update all the time so might not be correct now. (It also lists at $3.50 and I know that's not up to date.)

 

[lawnmowertech37]

However, now that I am searching...

http://cgi.ebay.com/repair-KIT-ZAMA...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5acfe66ed1

thanks you brian for that link now i know the part # for these kits now lets see if i have some oem ones

 

[JasonBmac]

Boy, that Zama kit looks ALOT like K1-MDC....

 

[hep1023]

mac 450 carburator

I collect Mcculloch chainsaws of all sizes and shapes until the J.F. generation. No pictures just a lot of saws. Mini-Macs - 125s, any of them. Do not find many around here but when I do I usually try and buy them. Most of my smaller Stihls, Pioneers and Homelites will go away soon to make more room for Mccullochs.

Had a good run of luck finding 1-10 and 10-10 series saws early this year and then no more Macs to be found again. It gives me something to look for.

do you know where i can find carb parts for a mac 450

what type of carb do i need

the number on the carb is now 61853A

 

[hep1023]

mac culloch 45O

i have an old saw maccullch 450

the carburator parts are bad

i need some parts

the number on the carb is 61853A

is this original ?

is there another carb that will fix

where can i find car repair kits ?

paul from belgium


[email protected]



thanks

 

[Moark]

Pm610

Anyone know the specs on the pro mac 610?
ci
bore
spark gap
bar and chain options
Cant find my manual
Thanks

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Anyone know the specs on the pro mac 610?
ci
bore
spark gap
bar and chain options
Cant find my manual
Thanks

PRO MAC 610,
MANUFACTURED BY: McCULLOCH MOTORS CORP.
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA, U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: 600041
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1978
YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1985
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 3.7 cu. in. (60 cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 47 mm
PISTON STROKE: 35 mm
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore
INTAKE METHOD: Piston ported
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.:
WEIGHT : 17.3 lbs. powerhead only
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM:
CHAIN BRAKE:
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium, plastic
MAGNETO TYPE: Electronic
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HK, Walbro HDB, Zama C2
MAJOR REPAIR KIT:
MINOR REPAIR KIT:
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Cellulose fiber element
STARTER TYPE: Automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Automatic with manual override
OPERATING RPM:
IGNITION TIMING: 26 degrees before TDC
BREAKER POINT SETTING: none
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP:
SPARK PLUG TYPE: AC CS45T, Champion DJ8
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Ball and caged needle roller
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 16.6 oz. (491 ml)
FUEL OIL RATIO: 40:1 with McCulloch oil
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: McCulloch two-cycle mix oil
CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in.
CHAIN TYPE: McCulloch PMR370GLX
BAR MOUNT PATTERN:
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 16 in. (40 cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 20 in. (51 cm)
COLOUR SCHEME: McCulloch Yellow and Black
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:

 

[Urbicide]

Welcome to ArboristSite, Paul. I do not have a 450 so I am not real familiar with that model. It probably has a McCulloch "Bull Frog" carburetor on it now. Parts for the original OEM carbs have been difficult to find. There are some pretty knowledgeable Mac gurus around here who can give you better advise. The metering diaphragms are usually the hardest part to find. Have you gone back through this thread?

Might want to read this thread that Mark posted (if you haven't already done so). Really great information & pictures. He should be around before too long.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=122113

I know that some folks have replaced their problem Mac carbs with Tillotson HL ones.

Vince

 

[briantutt]

Devil Beaver 2.0

Before I buy a coil for this little devil I want to make sure it IS the coil. In theory I should be able to turn the thing over with a drill and check for spark. That being said, I don't know how exactly. Attached is a picture showing a metal loop that the kill switch pushes on. What do I need to do with it while turning it over with a drill to check for spark? The switch doesn't have a wire on it so it seems like it is just rocking this loop back an forth a little bit but trying that in either direction while turning over does not produce spark...

 

[Moark]

Mr Bow Saw

Thanks for all the great info. on the PM610
Much more info than asked for and very appreciated.

 

[Urbicide]

Before I buy a coil for this little devil I want to make sure it IS the coil. In theory I should be able to turn the thing over with a drill and check for spark. That being said, I don't know how exactly. Attached is a picture showing a metal loop that the kill switch pushes on. What do I need to do with it while turning it over with a drill to check for spark? The switch doesn't have a wire on it so it seems like it is just rocking this loop back an forth a little bit but trying that in either direction while turning over does not produce spark...

Just thinking out loud here. PTO side of crank, might pull the clutch. I would get a second LH nut & use it as a jamb nut against the first. Chuck the outer-most nut in the drill & proceed with caution.....

How about just wrapping a number of turns of rope around the flywheel & give it a pull? Might need a second set of hands. opcorn:

 

[briantutt]

Well, with the plug out it just turn right over. It's the dinkiest little motor ever...

 

[Urbicide]

Chuck the outer-most nut in the drill & proceed with caution.....

I was implying not to snap the end of the crank off with the drill.:greenchainsaw:

 

[briantutt]

no kidding, all 1/4 inch of it :hmm3grin2orange:

Do you think the looped piece of metal should be grounded to the motor to get spark? Or vice versa? The switch is mounted in into the metal case and it would hit this metal loop in the "kill" position.

 

[briantutt]

Just sitting here looking at it and the IPL. Seems like it HAS to be the coil, no spark with loop grounded to motor, no spark without. I can't see what else the kill switch would do other than make a contact between the loop and the case which I imagine creates a least path of resistance for the electricity so it doesn't build up...:newbie:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Before I buy a coil for this little devil I want to make sure it IS the coil. In theory I should be able to turn the thing over with a drill and check for spark. That being said, I don't know how exactly. Attached is a picture showing a metal loop that the kill switch pushes on. What do I need to do with it while turning it over with a drill to check for spark? The switch doesn't have a wire on it so it seems like it is just rocking this loop back an forth a little bit but trying that in either direction while turning over does not produce spark...

I think the metal loop grounds the ignition when it is touching, so make sure it doesn't touch. If it has points, which I think it does, you might want to clean them while you have it apart. You shouldn't need a drill to turn it over to make a spark, like someone said just take the spark plug out and turn the flywheel by hand. You may have to bend that little loop so that it's not touching all the time. On my Mini that little metal loop goes to the points so when you ground the points it shuts it off.

 

[briantutt]

I definately does not have points. I believe it is the very last in the series and it took one of the very keen eyes on AS to notice the fine print in the IPL that shows the CDI coil number. That being said, when the ignition is "grounded" it kills the spark correct? So turning it over with that loop just swinging in the breeze + no spark = bad coil???

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I definately does not have points. I believe it is the very last in the series and it took one of the very keen eyes on AS to notice the fine print in the IPL that shows the CDI coil number. That being said, when the ignition is "grounded" it kills the spark correct? So turning it over with that loop just swinging in the breeze + no spark = bad coil???

I'm not sure on the CD ignitions...they could have them configured either way. Usually the other saws have a wire going to the switch. You could actually rig one up so the grounding wire turns it on OR off. You might try grounding and not grounding both to see if either produces a spark. Check clearance between flywheel and coil piece also...should be around 10 thousandths of an inch between.

 

[briantutt]

That's sort of what I tried. I wrapped a piece of wire around the loop and jammed the other end in a threaded hole on the jug. tried it with and without that wire. Nothing...