McCulloch Chain Saws

[fechtichmac]

sp 125

View attachment 242629I am using now a GB Harvesterbar .404-1,6.
Bar mount works great with 8-tooth sView attachment 242629procket.
The only thing I did was grinding the bar groove a little bit deeper to get a passage to the adjuster
hole for chainoil flow.
E.

 

[rwoods]

Double muffler

Now that this auction is over (I didn't buy it), I have a question: Do you think the enhanced volume of two mufflers makes much of a performance difference? Vintage Chainsaw McCulloch Super Pro 125c Runs Good and Looks Nice | eBay You also note that this saw has the wide chain brake handle bar - no performance increase there beyond keeping the mufflers out of the dirt. Ron

 

[joeymt33]

Ted, yer inbox full.

 

[promac850]

Now that this auction is over (I didn't buy it), I have a question: Do you think the enhanced volume of two mufflers makes much of a performance difference? Vintage Chainsaw McCulloch Super Pro 125c Runs Good and Looks Nice | eBay You also note that this saw has the wide chain brake handle bar - no performance increase there beyond keeping the mufflers out of the dirt. Ron

Best edumacated guess from me is that they intended to quiet down the beast... as for performance loss, it's hard to say from just looking at it. It all depends on if they planned the mod well and made it work properly for both sound reduction and flow or if they just made a hack job out of it.

 

[homelitejim]

Now that this auction is over (I didn't buy it), I have a question: Do you think the enhanced volume of two mufflers makes much of a performance difference? Vintage Chainsaw McCulloch Super Pro 125c Runs Good and Looks Nice | eBay You also note that this saw has the wide chain brake handle bar - no performance increase there beyond keeping the mufflers out of the dirt. Ron

What I noticed on that saw is how the wrap handle is set up for a leftie, maybe the double muffler is there to keep the muffler up noise level to a more manageable level and decrease some heat from the exhaust.

 

[rwoods]

What I noticed on that saw is how the wrap handle is set up for a leftie, maybe the double muffler is there to keep the muffler up noise level to a more manageable level and decrease some heat from the exhaust.

I just thought that he must have done a lot of falling from the right. Lefty certainly make sense. Ron

 

[watsonr]

I'd say he was a lefty also. Muffler probably done that way to keep the saw from falling over when set on its side, no added performance from having two mufflers, some heat reduction for sure! It may have been the only handle he could find as that version is for the chain brake clutch cover. Or he was tired of fighting the clutch cover with a regular handle as it is a tight fit to wiggle it into place, that handle would make it really easy to get the bar on and off.

 

[watsonr]

Here is the 250 cutting some hard wood. The pile contains ash and oak. I did a little cutting before I made the video, but the chain had to be sharpened... it was making mostly dust. Sharpened it up fairly well and got back to work. Then had to fill the saw up with fuel and bar oil.

Running vpower at 40:1 with Echo Powerblend oil. I need to spend some more time on the stubby bar's chain, buy a new chain or two for the original bar, and grease up the clutch drum bearing.

[video=youtube_share;wkbpIB-hZxw]http://youtu.be/wkbpIB-hZxw[/video]

At that rate, you'll be out of oil in a couple cuts! Couple pumps to start the cut, one or two in the middle and a couple near the end. It did cut pretty good and probably better after sharpening. Good to see an old saw being put to use.

 

[promac850]

At that rate, you'll be out of oil in a couple cuts! Couple pumps to start the cut, one or two in the middle and a couple near the end. It did cut pretty good and probably better after sharpening. Good to see an old saw being put to use.

lol. I did realize that I was overusing the oiler for that bar length after I watched the video... Just a habit, I guess. Thanks for the tip... I'll do that.

It cut a lot better after sharpening... that chain was so dull that it took way too long to cut... made lots of dust. Burned the wood too. Dust + burn marks = real dull chain. No doubt about it... so I spent a few minutes with the file and got it sharpened for this video.

Showed my neighbor yesterday and he said "I remember those..." He was happy to see it running as well, and picked right up on that it was tuned a tad too rich on the low side. It blubbered a little when I hit the throttle. Learned something else... if it blubbers when you hit the throttle, too rich. If it hesitates to get going (no blubber) then it's too lean. I knew the latter but didn't know the former. I just tuned it so it didn't stall from excess fuel when turned on its side.

 

[watsonr]

lol. I did realize that I was overusing the oiler for that bar length after I watched the video... Just a habit, I guess. Thanks for the tip... I'll do that.

It cut a lot better after sharpening... that chain was so dull that it took way too long to cut... made lots of dust. Burned the wood too. Dust + burn marks = real dull chain. No doubt about it... so I spent a few minutes with the file and got it sharpened for this video.

Showed my neighbor yesterday and he said "I remember those..." He was happy to see it running as well, and picked right up on that it was tuned a tad too rich on the low side. It blubbered a little when I hit the throttle. Learned something else... if it blubbers when you hit the throttle, too rich. If it hesitates to get going (no blubber) then it's too lean. I knew the latter but didn't know the former. I just tuned it so it didn't stall from excess fuel when turned on its side.

Good to hear... it's still a good old saw, just needs a little love now and then!

 

[heimannm]

I got the 4-10 cleaned up and together this week. It runs well enough but there is some issue with the clutch/starter. I have had two different starters on it and it still slips a but under the load of starting. I think I need a new clutch with the starter pawls (RH start saw). This one had the tank bottom/carburetor swap performed already.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Oops, that last one is the 6-10 with the compression release that locks.

Here are a couple more of the 4-10 with the tank/carburetor conversion.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I also received my 10-10E yesterday. It needs a good cleaning and a few replacements here and there. I am hoping to work with McTodd for the battery box and lower handle.

Now I have the whole 10 Series E family

Mark

 

[Overtrained]

Where is the starter motor on those electric start saws? Under the flywheel cover?

 

[heimannm]

There is a set of windings in the flywheel, and another set fixed to the crank case. The flywheel has a commutator similar to any universal motor with brushes, the brushes in this case are also fixed to the crank case.

For starting the winding work like a motor, once the engine is running they perform as a generator. Similar concept to older garder tractors, etc. with a "starter/generator".

Mark

 

[mad murdock]

I feel dumb! I for some reason thought that an SDC carb was not a Walbro, they are one in the same:bang::bang: Here are a few pics of the PM700, cleaned up a bit.

I put a handle from one of the 10-10A parts saws i have, and wrapped the handles with friction tape. gives it a nice look/feel, and firm grip.

I am going to repost this pic in the weight thread. PHO 14lbs on the nose. Pretty good for an old saw! I doubt the newer saws of this power class are much lighter. Will get the carb kitted next week, and get it running. Too much going on today to finish it.

 

[Eccentric]

I got the 4-10 cleaned up and together this week. It runs well enough but there is some issue with the clutch/starter. I have had two different starters on it and it still slips a but under the load of starting. I think I need a new clutch with the starter pawls (RH start saw). This one had the tank bottom/carburetor swap performed already.

Mark

Good stuff Mark. I bet the pawl pivot rivets have worked loose on that clutch hub. Every RH start Mac with starter slipping issues that I've worked on has had that problem (when it wasn't broken/missing pawl springs).

I feel dumb! I for some reason thought that an SDC carb was not a Walbro, they are one in the same:bang::bang: Here are a few pics of the PM700, cleaned up a bit.

I put a handle from one of the 10-10A parts saws i have, and wrapped the handles with friction tape. gives it a nice look/feel, and firm grip.

I am going to repost this pic in the weight thread. PHO 14lbs on the nose. Pretty good for an old saw! I doubt the newer saws of this power class are much lighter. Will get the carb kitted next week, and get it running. Too much going on today to finish it.

It'd be even lighter with a non chainbrake clutch cover. That's a CB type cover (which is missing the CB handle and spring) on the saw now.

I've seen Walbro SDC's without "Walbro" stamped on them. They've been on Homelite and McCulloch saws, and have had "Homelite SDC" and "McCulloch SDC" stamped on them instead. Being a BIG customer brings special perks like that....

 

[joeymt33]

before this one sells, i can post one last video of it while we're on the topic.

(before anyone tells me....yep, that chain is too tight)

[video=youtube;LkQCsa_0CGk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkQCsa_0CGk[/video]

 

[Overtrained]

There is a set of windings in the flywheel, and another set fixed to the crank case. The flywheel has a commutator similar to any universal motor with brushes, the brushes in this case are also fixed to the crank case.

For starting the winding work like a motor, once the engine is running they perform as a generator. Similar concept to older garder tractors, etc. with a "starter/generator".

Mark

Ahh good to know, thanks for the info. Making a note of it now that I will not be getting one of those saws, its even more crap to fix that's broken

 

[promac850]

Ahh good to know, thanks for the info. Making a note of it now that I will not be getting one of those saws, its even more crap to fix that's broken

Yep... KISS. Keep it simple, stupid. AKA Keep it stupid simple.

However, we all know Mark has to have every McCulloch saw ever made. Well, maybe not every single minor variation of the models, but at least one of every model...