McCulloch Chain Saws

[hkusp9]

Help needed with Mac PM610

Ive been loosely monitoring this thread and im to the point now that i need a little more advice on the project that im working on right now.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/205467-6.htm

can anybody offer any advice or insight on this deal?

 

[Mastermind]

I'm not sure, but I think this is what you need:

Let me know and I'll get it on the way to Tennessee.

That is exactly what I need. I really need that rubber piece between the adjusting screws and the carb box too Marc.

 

[Warped5]

That is exactly what I need. I really need that rubber piece between the adjusting screws and the carb box too Marc.

... and he really needs that adapter plate that's between the carb and the carb box.

 

[Mastermind]

... and he really needs that adapter plate that's between the carb and the carb box.

Sure......throw that in the box too.

 

[Eccentric]

... and he really needs that adapter plate that's between the carb and the carb box.

Sure......throw that in the box too.

Yep. That carb would no workie on that saw without the adaptor. It's an impulse passage mismatch issue. Also, the gaskets on each side of the adaptor plate are different too. Now McCulloch could have just made one gasket with both impulse hole locations punched and it would have covered all the gasket needs for these saws...........but they didn't for whatever reason (this can be done with a leather/gasket punch of course).

On a top tank Mac (1-76, 790, etc), the impulse hole on the saw manifold is in the "HL possition" (and you use an HL application gasket with NO adaptor plate, whether you use an HL or flattback carb). On the front tank saws (250, 300, etc), the impulse hole is in the "flatback possiton" on the carb box/manifold, so you use a "flatback application" gasket on that side of the adaptor plate, and an "HL application" gasket on the carb side of the plate.

Flatback carbs have a passage cast into their mounting flange face that allows impulse signal from either the "HL possition" or "flatback possition" to get to the impulse port. When flatbacks are used on front tank Macs, there is only a thin steel spacer plate used between the carb and the carb box/manifold flange (with "flatback application" gaskets on both side of the plate).

The flatback equipped front tank Macs also use shorter carb mounting bolts than the HL quipped front tank saws (because the adaptor plate is thicker in the HL application). For that reason, Marc should throw the carb mounting screws in the box along with the HL, the adaptor plate, the links, and the mixture screw grommet before sending it to Tennessee. Also, if Randy's 250 was primer/flatback equipped before (instead of having a carb with a choke) then he'll also need the choke button from the 300 as it is the 'push and turn to lock' type that keeps the choke on while starting. Primer equipped front tank saws have an oiler button (smooth sides, no holes) on the primer side. This button is retained with a roll pin that can be driven out of the little hole (forward hole, which looks rusty/dirty in the pic) on the button. It locks into a channel cast into the carb box/handle casting. There should also be a screw threaded into the rear hole (serves the purpose of a handle) but those are often missing (it's missing on the 300 I see).

 

[diggers_dad]

That is exactly what I need. I really need that rubber piece between the adjusting screws and the carb box too Marc.

I'll get everything (carefully) pulled and in a box on the way to you. If you think of something else you need off of it just shoot me a pm.

 

[diggers_dad]

Yep. That carb would no workie on that saw without the adaptor.

The flatback equipped front tank Macs also use shorter carb mounting bolts than the HL quipped front tank saws (because the adaptor plate is thicker in the HL application). For that reason, Marc should throw the carb mounting screws in the box along with the HL, the adaptor plate, the links, and the mixture screw grommet before sending it to Tennessee. Also, if Randy's 250 was primer/flatback equipped before (instead of having a carb with a choke) then he'll also need the choke button from the 300 as it is the 'push and turn to lock' type that keeps the choke on while starting. Primer equipped front tank saws have an oiler button (smooth sides, no holes) on the primer side. This button is retained with a roll pin that can be driven out of the little hole (forward hole, which looks rusty/dirty in the pic) on the button. It locks into a channel cast into the carb box/handle casting. There should also be a screw threaded into the rear hole (serves the purpose of a handle) but those are often missing (it's missing on the 300 I see).

No wonder I couldn't get the choke to stay closed! One more reason I love this site. He had mentioned the linkage before so I figured I would pull EVERYTHING out of the carb box and anything attached to it to send to Randy. I'm trying to save up enough favors with him to get a woods port on a MS 361.

 

[Eccentric]

No wonder I couldn't get the choke to stay closed! One more reason I love this site. He had mentioned the linkage before so I figured I would pull EVERYTHING out of the carb box and anything attached to it to send to Randy. I'm trying to save up enough favors with him to get a woods port on a MS 361.

They work somewhat like a bolt action rifle. Push the choke button in and turn it. The rol pin sticking out of the bottom of the button locks against the slot cast into the handle. The screw (that's missing from the 300 button) which threads into that rear hole sticks out like a little bolt handle.

 

[ozflea]

My my you could say a bolt action chainsaw in what calibre

 

[Eccentric]

My my you could say a bolt action chainsaw in what calibre

Marc's is .300 Savage and Randy's is .250 Savage.

 

[ChainLightning]

Hey guys, check out this bad boy I picked up today. Got it for $30. Turns over too. 24in bar and chain. It appears from what I can see, to be a 3-25? Might be a number in front of that 3 but nor sure. View attachment 249059View attachment 249060View attachment 249061

 

[RandyMac]

the rare reverse running 25-3.

 

[leeha]

the rare reverse running 25-3.

Had seen that many times back in the day.
Customer would bring in a chain for sharpening.
Then bring the chain and saw back saying this
thing won't cut for crap. Made me many laughs.




Lee

 

[ChainLightning]

Had seen that many times back in the day.
Customer would bring in a chain for sharpening.
Then bring the chain and saw back saying this
thing won't cut for crap. Made me many laughs.




Lee

So thats why the chain was on backwords I thought that guy put it like that by mistake.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

So thats why the chain was on backwords I thought that guy put it like that by mistake.

Then they should have put the spike bar on the other end of the bar...JK.

 

[ChainLightning]

Then they should have put the spike bar on the other end of the bar...JK.

Any tips on getting this thing running? Looks pretty tough to work on. Turns over with good compression, have not checked for spark, tank is dry. Have worked on a lot of chainsaws, but nothing this old.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Any tips on getting this thing running? Looks pretty tough to work on. Turns over with good compression, have not checked for spark, tank is dry. Have worked on a lot of chainsaws, but nothing this old.

Same rules apply to this saw as apply to any other saw, compression, spark, fuel. I'd say check compression, if it's okay check the spark , and of course we pretty well know the fuel system is gonna need rebuilding and cleaning. Some of the old Mac guys might have some literature on this saw, I've never had one of these saws so I don't have anything on it. Pretty sure these saws have a different carburetor than newer ones have..

 

[promac850]

You probably should be able to repair it yourself. NAPA sells a kit for that insert and instructions are included. I put an insert in my VW a few years back, it was my first time doing something like that, and it did ok.

Yeah, I could do it... so could anyone else here.

Thing is, if you know someone at a shop that has the stuff needed, you might just end up paying for an insert and maybe a burger, rather than having to dump 60 bucks on a helicoil kit.

I looked into stocking up on those several of those kits for just in case spark plug and other blind hole repairs, and nope. No freaking way. It'd cost as much as my toolbox.

 

[Toolslinger]

Yeah, I could do it... so could anyone else here.

Thing is, if you know someone at a shop that has the stuff needed, you might just end up paying for an insert and maybe a burger, rather than having to dump 60 bucks on a helicoil kit.

I looked into stocking up on those several of those kits for just in case spark plug and other blind hole repairs, and nope. No freaking way. It'd cost as much as my toolbox.

That was sorta my thinking... I'd rather have it done by someone that has done this in the past... I know it isn't rocket science, but hell, if I screw it up, then I have a serious problem...

Guess I'll give a call to the good Stihl place I have dealt with... My local one is staffed by let's say less than helpful people with even less helpful attitudes...

 

[ozflea]

Ahhhhhh dont take it to a Stihl shop it wont start man o man what are ya .....................