The fittings should be waiting when I get home tonight, I will try to remember and put a couple together for show.
Mark
Mark
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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ten series oiler - modern bar oil
Forgive me if this has been covered before, but I am beginning to believe that the ten series oiler is just not quite up to the new oils. Due to $, I recently switch from Stihl bar oil to Poulan and at the same time I concluded that due to pump leaks I have probably been burning more oil than was getting to the bar. I never really thought about it as the mix and oil always seemed to be synchronized. Now that I have been working on the leaks, I am not using any oil unless I manually oil. Anyway, I couldn't believe the vacuum it took to suck the oil out of the tank with a syringe and then the pressure to empty it. The oiler works with the mineral spirits I put in the tank to loosen things up a bit. Would it help if I opened the screw up? Any comments on converting back to 30W? (A misnomer there as I used used motor oil for 25 years before I got educated about such things). Ron
Forgive me if this has been covered before, but I am beginning to believe that the ten series oiler is just not quite up to the new oils. Due to $, I recently switch from Stihl bar oil to Poulan and at the same time I concluded that due to pump leaks I have probably been burning more oil than was getting to the bar. I never really thought about it as the mix and oil always seemed to be synchronized. Now that I have been working on the leaks, I am not using any oil unless I manually oil. Anyway, I couldn't believe the vacuum it took to suck the oil out of the tank with a syringe and then the pressure to empty it. The oiler works with the mineral spirits I put in the tank to loosen things up a bit. Would it help if I opened the screw up? Any comments on converting back to 30W? (A misnomer there as I used used motor oil for 25 years before I got educated about such things). Ron
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I second the TSC bar oil. They sometimes put it on sale for around $8 a gallon.
Have you guys had any luck with the mineral spirits? I've never tried it, but it would be nice to have a quick fix.
Have you guys had any luck with the mineral spirits? I've never tried it, but it would be nice to have a quick fix.
Thanks, guys. I assume TSC is not as "thick" as the others. I checked the link to Mark's thread, although he doesn't get into oils he does mention using mineral spirits. I just used mineral spirits because I had it on hand. BTW the 800 owners manual says to use MAC bar oil, of course, and if not available then non-additive sae 30 motor oil above 40 degrees F (5 C) and above and sae 10 below. Ron
Yesterday was the first time I ran a 10-10 for a considerable amount of time. Before yesterday, it was cookie cutting and small jobs. I had a Maple tree blow down and decided to use a 10-10 20" to cut it up. I must say was impressed with it for it's size. It did better than I thought it would and sounded great. :msp_thumbup:
I've had a CP70 rebuild project going on for over a year now. Had the jug bored 30, new piston kit, bearings and seals.
I have all the parts.... now I can't wait to get it finished.
I've had a CP70 rebuild project going on for over a year now. Had the jug bored 30, new piston kit, bearings and seals.
I have all the parts.... now I can't wait to get it finished.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
Yesterday was the first time I ran a 10-10 for a considerable amount of time. Before yesterday, it was cookie cutting and small jobs. I had a Maple tree blow down and decided to use a 10-10 20" to cut it up. I must say was impressed with it for it's size. It did better than I thought it would and sounded great. :msp_thumbup:
I've had a CP70 rebuild project going on for over a year now. Had the jug bored 30, new piston kit, bearings and seals.
I have all the parts.... now I can't wait to get it finished.
A little something to get you going.
thomas1
sodium pentothal
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A friend of mine found this in the back of a storage container, while doing some clean up at his yard. Looks like I'll have my first RH start Mac, this afternoon.
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
A friend of mine found this in the back of a storage container, while doing some clean up at his yard. Looks like I'll have my first RH start Mac, this afternoon.
It's hard to tell from the pics but that saw may have been used just a little bit. Hopefully it will look better when you clean it up.
thomas1
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I would bet they got their money's worth out of it.
If it's good for some parts I'm happy. I don't own a RH start cover yet.
He works for a masonry contractor and found this and a couple of cutoff saws, I can only imagine how beat they're going to be.
thomas1
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I was messing with a few saws last night, getting ready for some firewood on Sunday.
Is it just me or is a sp81 (full wrap, no brake) lighter than a pm700 (half wrap, with brake)? I don't have a scale, but it sure felt that way. Maybe I was just feeling the effects of the Yellow Fever?
Is it just me or is a sp81 (full wrap, no brake) lighter than a pm700 (half wrap, with brake)? I don't have a scale, but it sure felt that way. Maybe I was just feeling the effects of the Yellow Fever?
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Warped5
WingNut
Around here it was $7 during August and will probably go on sale again in February.
I use the TSC oil all year; except when it gets below zero, then I may use the crap from Menard's.
A little something to get you going.
.png "Love :heart:")
Saw your post and went down to the garage ... yep, feels that way to me too. But the PM700 to me has slightly better balance. (We're both starting to sound like the Troll! (sorry Nikko))
Yesterday was the first time I ran a 10-10 for a considerable amount of time. Before yesterday, it was cookie cutting and small jobs. I had a Maple tree blow down and decided to use a 10-10 20" to cut it up. I must say was impressed with it for it's size. It did better than I thought it would and sounded great. :msp_thumbup:
I've had a CP70 rebuild project going on for over a year now. Had the jug bored 30, new piston kit, bearings and seals.
I have all the parts.... now I can't wait to get it finished.
Slacker .....
.... let me know if YOU need any parts!
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I agree that the SP81 seems lighter when you are using it compared to PM700, may simply be it has more zip.
As soon as I can get the photos from my phone into the computer I will show you what I came up with on the McMaster Carr fittings and converting the 10 Series tank from the conventional fuel line set up.
Mark
As soon as I can get the photos from my phone into the computer I will show you what I came up with on the McMaster Carr fittings and converting the 10 Series tank from the conventional fuel line set up.
Mark
OldDeadWood
ArboristSite Operative
opcorn:ODW
I managed to get the photos over so here we go. McCulloch sold a "kit" to solve the problem of fuel lines leaking where they passed throught the tank, part number 301762 consisting of a bushing to fit in the tank, some sealer to insure the bushing does not leak, a new fuel line, new fuel filter, and a new carburetor since the fuel line size changed the inlet fitting to the carburetor had to become smaller.
I don't know if he still has them, but I got this kit from Rockcrusher on e-bay and as he noted in the description, the sealer is hardened in the tube so if you go this route you will have to utilize some threebond or something similar.
The obvious question here is why didn't they make a fitting with barbs either end so they could use standard lines and keep the original carburetor...I suppose the obvious answer is they could make more selling you a new carburetor.
Mark
I don't know if he still has them, but I got this kit from Rockcrusher on e-bay and as he noted in the description, the sealer is hardened in the tube so if you go this route you will have to utilize some threebond or something similar.
The obvious question here is why didn't they make a fitting with barbs either end so they could use standard lines and keep the original carburetor...I suppose the obvious answer is they could make more selling you a new carburetor.
Mark
From McMaster Carr you can order barbed fittings in nylon, "through the wall" style as well as ones with a male 1/8" pipe thread. fittings are available in a variety of tube sizes and cost $5 to $8 for a package of 10. I ordered 7 different sizes all together and with shipping the total was $51. That means each pair (one through wall and one 1/8" pipe) cost an average of $1.46. Look at the dimension for the different parts as the 1/4" barbs are much longer than the smaller barbs and may make connections in the air box more difficult. The smaller barbs are shorter and make a pretty compact package as you can see below.
To make this arrangement work, I tapped the hole in the tank to 1/4" pipe. I didn't have to drill the hole out, not sure how you would with normal shop tools since you can't really get on either side with a regular drill and bit. My pipe tap is for standard tapered pipe of course, and the fittings are straight pipe but the threads are the same and it does make for a nice tight fit.
The through wall fittings are pretty thin wall, so tapping them out of the tank is not completely successful, the nylon flexes and the threads don't cut full depth. I found it worked better to install the through wall fitting in the tank, then tap the 1/8" pipe threads in the fitting. To make a closer coupling, I cut a portion of the threads off the through wall fitting. There is still plenty of depth for the 1/8" pipe threads to fully engage.
So there you have it, for $12 worth of fittings and with a little time and effort you can pretty effectively replace the original equipment fuel line on models with "two piece" tank.
I did not assemble this tank top to a saw and pressure test the tank, but I am confident the fittings through the tank are sealed. I did pressure test the fittings themselves and it looked like they would hold 10 PSI all day.
For the SP and PM models with the sealed tanks, I will continue to go the teflon tape route unless a tank has to come apart for some other reason. I did have the tank on one of my SP70's apart a couple of times so it is possible, just not quite as easy.
Mark
To make this arrangement work, I tapped the hole in the tank to 1/4" pipe. I didn't have to drill the hole out, not sure how you would with normal shop tools since you can't really get on either side with a regular drill and bit. My pipe tap is for standard tapered pipe of course, and the fittings are straight pipe but the threads are the same and it does make for a nice tight fit.
The through wall fittings are pretty thin wall, so tapping them out of the tank is not completely successful, the nylon flexes and the threads don't cut full depth. I found it worked better to install the through wall fitting in the tank, then tap the 1/8" pipe threads in the fitting. To make a closer coupling, I cut a portion of the threads off the through wall fitting. There is still plenty of depth for the 1/8" pipe threads to fully engage.
So there you have it, for $12 worth of fittings and with a little time and effort you can pretty effectively replace the original equipment fuel line on models with "two piece" tank.
I did not assemble this tank top to a saw and pressure test the tank, but I am confident the fittings through the tank are sealed. I did pressure test the fittings themselves and it looked like they would hold 10 PSI all day.
For the SP and PM models with the sealed tanks, I will continue to go the teflon tape route unless a tank has to come apart for some other reason. I did have the tank on one of my SP70's apart a couple of times so it is possible, just not quite as easy.
Mark
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Warped5
WingNut
Thanks Mark!
Very informative ... have them both book-marked.
Very informative ... have them both book-marked.
Now fellow Mac heads, I need a little help identifying a block I found in the latest haul. Maybe I am missing something here but can anyone tell me which standard block (not the super series line 795/797) would have a compression release port and three hole exhaust? Note the back plate has the full shroud like the 200/300/400/500 model saws.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Mark
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Mark
watsonr
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Nice work Mark.... after the tank is put back together, how hard is it going to be getting a fuel hose on that barb tucked up underneath the top? It does appear from the picture its pretty close to the opening but we both know looks can be deceiving.
On that block... It looks like a CP cylinder, how big is the bore?
On that block... It looks like a CP cylinder, how big is the bore?
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That's the beauty of this approach Randy, you can put the line on the fitting with the filter hanging down and just mount it to the tank. There is no need to replace the line when the tank is assembled, just open it up.
I don't have that one disassembled yet so I don't know the bore. I don't think it is a CP as it has the full shroud and no place for the AV mounts.
Makes me wonder if perhaps it was a kart engine? Did someone just add a compression release? The only similar model I have seen with location for that compression release is the 550 but neither of mine had the port machined out. Does anyone have a Super 550? Do they have a compression release?
??
Mark
I don't have that one disassembled yet so I don't know the bore. I don't think it is a CP as it has the full shroud and no place for the AV mounts.
Makes me wonder if perhaps it was a kart engine? Did someone just add a compression release? The only similar model I have seen with location for that compression release is the 550 but neither of mine had the port machined out. Does anyone have a Super 550? Do they have a compression release?
??
Mark
