RandyMac
Stiff Member
does it look like this?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Sounds good all around. That's the same auto oiler setup that I have. Some of the saws in this series had a special AO pump built into the fuel tank casting (instead of the 'standard' front tank Mac AO pump inside the gas tank like our saws have). I've never seen that other style of AO pump setup in person. Just in the IPL. If you have a rim drive setup then you can swap a .404-8 rim (or .404-9 or .404-10) to get some chain speed back. I'd rather my saw had a 2/1 gearbox since I don't plan on running anything longer than 48" (and I could use some chain speed), but I'm still happy to have my saw, even if it did cost me more than $7.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
does it look like this?
very similar but with a retaining washer and maybe a nut.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
I took 'em off for the pitcher.
cutforfun
Addicted to ArboristSite
did not want to start a new thread so i came here. I have an old oregon bar that i cant figure out the chain for it. it mounts up to my cp125 and is 404 pitch, but .063 gauge will not fit. did they run .058 chain or .050 chain in 404? the bar has the fallowing numbers
19889
3050 0992
404 7t 89E
it is the old style with oregon in big red letters
thanks for the help
19889
3050 0992
404 7t 89E
it is the old style with oregon in big red letters
thanks for the help
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
They did run .050 gauge .404 back in the day. You have some searching ahead of you. I found some in Haden, ID NOS that I needed for a friends 42 inch Stihl bar that was on his 075, it cost me a dollar a inch of bar so not to bad for new obsolete chain.
cutforfun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks, buck a bar inch is cheep . I pay that for run of the mill 3/8 chain. one loop should last me a life time on the saw.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
McCulloch used .404-.058G chain quite a bit in the 1960's and early 1970's. .404-.050G was made back then, but I don't think McCulloch used it much if at all. I've seen Homelite branded .404-.050G chain.
ckelp
just being myself
hey jim just to let you know the clutch cover is made out of ultra pure unobtainium
i'm sorry that you paid so much for your saw.. i got mine for free:big_smile:
i'm sorry that you paid so much for your saw.. i got mine for free:big_smile:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Quiet you, or I'll take that carb back and let you battle the flatback.
Nah I can't do that. Two of the three S25AV's you traded to me for it have cherry P/C's under all that grime...
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ckelp
just being myself
is that what you daughter will be using at the gtg??
i was lame storming about changing the 3/8" tip on that 42" bar and putting a .404 on it for the 660.. whcia think?
if that dose't work i'll put that bar on the swap meet with the chain
in other news the 1-61 i think i found out why it felt low on power,(stalled out with little pressure) i think it has't been ran in awhile and needs to get the drit blown out of it
i'm lookig at making my own clutch cover for the 660 aswell
i was lame storming about changing the 3/8" tip on that 42" bar and putting a .404 on it for the 660.. whcia think?
if that dose't work i'll put that bar on the swap meet with the chain
in other news the 1-61 i think i found out why it felt low on power,(stalled out with little pressure) i think it has't been ran in awhile and needs to get the drit blown out of it
i'm lookig at making my own clutch cover for the 660 aswell
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The family has other stuff going on during the GTG weekend. They may pop by, but won't be running saws. My oldest hasn't ran a saw yet anyways. Soon.
Is your 42" bar a large frame Mac mount? Or is that the stihl bar you showed me? My memory is so-so. If it's the stihl bar you'll need to make bar stud spacers for it.
You're going to make a clutch cover for your 660? That'll take some work. A fellow here made his own large frame Mac clutch cover a while ago. IIRC it was for an SP125. You need to borrow my 650 cover to use as a pattern? If so I'll drop it off this weekend. I'll need it back however....
Did you rebuild the carb in the 1-61? If not, kit the sucker. The diaphragms are most likely shot. RK-88HL for the full kit and DG-5HL for the diaphragm/gasket kit.
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Hey Tom, Hey Joey! Caught you looking.
There were a fewhard nose bars made to fit big old McCulloch saws in 0.050 gauge but they were few and far between. I think I have one on my 650 up on the shelf (keeping everything in theme here).
There were many more bars made in 0.058 and 0.063.
I have a good supply of .404/.050 chain if anyone needs some. It is Oregon brand and has humps like a safety chain.
My 660 has the McCulloch flat back with choke, starts and runs very well for a tired old saw.
Mark
There were a fewhard nose bars made to fit big old McCulloch saws in 0.050 gauge but they were few and far between. I think I have one on my 650 up on the shelf (keeping everything in theme here).
There were many more bars made in 0.058 and 0.063.
I have a good supply of .404/.050 chain if anyone needs some. It is Oregon brand and has humps like a safety chain.
My 660 has the McCulloch flat back with choke, starts and runs very well for a tired old saw.
Mark
ckelp
just being myself
The family has other stuff going on during the GTG weekend. They may pop by, but won't be running saws. My oldest hasn't ran a saw yet anyways. Soon.
Is your 42" bar a large frame Mac mount? Or is that the stihl bar you showed me? My memory is so-so. If it's the stihl bar you'll need to make bar stud spacers for it.
You're going to make a clutch cover for your 660? That'll take some work. A fellow here made his own large frame Mac clutch cover a while ago. IIRC it was for an SP125. You need to borrow my 650 cover to use as a pattern? If so I'll drop it off this weekend. I'll need it back however....
Did you rebuild the carb in the 1-61? If not, kit the sucker. The diaphragms are most likely shot. RK-88HL for the full kit and DG-5HL for the diaphragm/gasket kit.
the bar is a husky mount i was thinking on taking it over to the mill to open up the slot about 1/16"
the 1-61 did't need a anything to the carb.. it turns out someone was nice enough to put bar oil in the gas tank, ran it into the carb and just drained the tank i filled it up with with fresh mix pulled on it about 1000 times now it runs and idles good:msp_smile:
for my clutch cover i wanna do more rounded then the stock one...
also i just realised that the gtg is going to be the last time i run my saws for awhile
but then i'm haveing a kid:msp_biggrin:
after the gtg remind me to go though my fleet and make sure there's no gas in any of them..
well i guess thats the pisser about having 40ish saws
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
the bar is a husky mount i was thinking on taking it over to the mill to open up the slot about 1/16"
the 1-61 did't need a anything to the carb.. it turns out someone was nice enough to put bar oil in the gas tank, ran it into the carb and just drained the tank i filled it up with with fresh mix pulled on it about 1000 times now it runs and idles good:msp_smile:
for my clutch cover i wanna do more rounded then the stock one...
also i just realised that the gtg is going to be the last time i run my saws for awhile
but then i'm haveing a kid:msp_biggrin:
after the gtg remind me to go though my fleet and make sure there's no gas in any of them..
well i guess thats the pisser about having 40ish saws
Can't go too much more rounded than the stock cover as it has to clear the gearbox.
I'll be sure to bug you to drain your saws and run 'em dry after the GTG. You ain't takin' 40 of them to the GTG though. Better start clearing out the saws that you're not taking to the GTG now, as you won't have time afterwards.
Never trust what's in the gas tank of a used saw that you pick up BTW. I drain saws as they come in...
Before you open up that bar slot, check to see where the oiler hole needs to be. You only have to remove .5mm (Mac studs are .375"/9.5mm while the big Husky mount is 9mm). May be advantagous to take the "whole .5mm" off of one side of the slot instead of 'half' of it from each side of the slot (to get the oil hole to line up). May well have to drill a new oiler hole (or enlarge the stock one) anyways. Adjuster holes may need modification too. Does your 660 have bar plates?
Gents-
SP80 question:
What is going on at the top of this cylinder?
I attached a pic of the piston, though rough doesn't look overly nasty...both rings were intact, FYI
Comp was 120
View attachment 257924
View attachment 257925
SP80 question:
What is going on at the top of this cylinder?
I attached a pic of the piston, though rough doesn't look overly nasty...both rings were intact, FYI
Comp was 120
View attachment 257924
View attachment 257925
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Got way too hot, probably from running lean. There's some aluminum transfer off of the piston. Combustion chamber looks to have some of the aluminum deposited on it. There's some transfer onto the cylinder walls too. Shows evidence of pre-ignition (pinging) due to heat as well. Mottled, pock-marked combustion chamber...
You can probably save the cylinder with some careful cleaning of the walls with muriatic acid. You'll want to run a new piston and rings however. Is there a letter stamped on the cylinder head, near the DSP valve port?
You can probably save the cylinder with some careful cleaning of the walls with muriatic acid. You'll want to run a new piston and rings however. Is there a letter stamped on the cylinder head, near the DSP valve port?
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found in a attic, is it now a parts saw?
That saw looks to have been running lean and has given up some aluminum to the cylinder. It should be possible to clean up the cylinder and install a new piston but measure it first to be sure. If the bore is over 2.065/2.067 you are probably out of luck in terms of making it run like new again. Stock bore is 2.0640/2.0625. Piston is listed as 2.0585/2.0580 top and 2.0604/2.0599 bottom.
I have one piston at home that is designated SP80 with Serial number 14-, not sure why it makes a difference since the bore diameters and piston dimensions are the same and the piston number are the same (87791). There are different numbers for the rings on the 11-, 12-, 13- serial numbers (85245) and 14- serial numbers (87854).
Mark
I have one piston at home that is designated SP80 with Serial number 14-, not sure why it makes a difference since the bore diameters and piston dimensions are the same and the piston number are the same (87791). There are different numbers for the rings on the 11-, 12-, 13- serial numbers (85245) and 14- serial numbers (87854).
Mark
According to the Cylinders, Piston Assemblies, and Ring Sets chart I have the SP80 did not have letter designations.
Mark
Mark
