McCulloch Chain Saws

[Sawyer Rob]

I have a Pro-mac 55 I bought new in about 1975, I haven't started it in many years...

SR

 

[Syncop8r]

I have a Pro-mac 55 I bought new in about 1975, I haven't started it in many years...

Well, you know what to do...

 

[heimannm]

I only go to the extra effort of blocking off the impulse oiler if I have a leak that I cannot otherwise identify.

Usually I will check the seals and the crankcase for pressure leaks (bubbles) and if that is good I don't worry too much about the little bit of leakage through the pulse passage.

Mark

 

[vinnywv]

I have a Pro-mac 55 I bought new in about 1975, I haven't started it in many years...

SR

Thats pretty cool. I have several mcculloch saws made in the 60s 70s or 80s but only really a couple i could pinpoint to a year. Thats not even a guarantee. Only 1 i can guarantee when it was bought originally. My cp125 came with the guys original receipt which is a really neat item. Not being mean but i too was made in 1975. Haha

 

[knightmax]

Lol, i did that when i started and the list got too long to keep up with in a short period of time. And i dont have near as many as some.

I tried to add some a while back. I honesty can't remember all of them anymore Vinny. Its a bit embarrassing.

 

[vinnywv]

I tried to add some a while back. I honesty can't remember all of them anymore Vinny. Its a bit embarrassing.

I understand.

 

[Syncop8r]

Not being mean but i too was made in 1975. Haha

Me too. It's a big year for us...

 

[xl130]

Looks like you’re getting it figured out! Every saw has its unique challenges when it comes to vacuum pressure tests. I’ve never tested any of my Macs though. When I have tested other saws though, I have always just cut rubber gaskets like your using and then bolted the carburetor and mufflers back on good and tight over the gaskets and hooked my Mityvac into the spark plug hole. Spray soapy water around if you’re losing pressure to find the leak.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Thats pretty cool. I have several mcculloch saws made in the 60s 70s or 80s but only really a couple i could pinpoint to a year. Thats not even a guarantee. Only 1 i can guarantee when it was bought originally. My cp125 came with the guys original receipt which is a really neat item. Not being mean but i too was made in 1975. Haha

Depends on your birth date, you may have been made in "74". LOL

SR

 

[JSMississippi]

Looks like you’re getting it figured out! Every saw has its unique challenges when it comes to vacuum pressure tests. I’ve never tested any of my Macs though. When I have tested other saws though, I have always just cut rubber gaskets like your using and then bolted the carburetor and mufflers back on good and tight over the gaskets and hooked my Mityvac into the spark plug hole. Spray soapy water around if you’re losing pressure to find the leak.

Going to get it soon enough! Was thinking about testing from the spark plug hole with the piston at BDC, but my vacuum/pressure tester kit from Amazon didn’t have anything I could make work. I think I’ve read somewhere about making a fitting out of an old spark plug.

 

[xl130]

I drilled out an old spark plug and put a tight o - ring at the threads. Drilling out the spark plug took patience….,,,

 

[rocketnorton]

zipcut crimp right above hex
porcelin can then be pushed out from electrode end

hacksaw would also work if no zipcut

 

[JSMississippi]

While I'm waiting for more free time to get back on the saw, I'm thinking about a few more things. Went ahead and ordered a new semi chisel chain (the majority of use this one will see will be dead, rotten wood or storm blowdown at the camp, mostly pine) since the existing one had seen better days and was full chisel. Pardon the tape measure, old photo and was checking if a generic scabbard was going to fit before ordering.

I am assuming I should order a new rim sprocket as well? You guys would say this is pretty well worn right?

Should I just be getting a new sprocket, or I see some kits that come with the bearing and drum too? Are the LRB or Archer brands good for these? Thanks again for all the advice - I wouldn't be this far without you all.

 

[vinnywv]

New sprocket rim.....yes.

 

[Rotax Steve]

Working on a 10-10A and have a question or two.
I believe I'm getting a fuel leak where the carburetor seats in the air box. I've tried to research the spacer/gasket combination and haven't had much luck.
I rebuilt the carb and put it back in. It started and ran good, but after running it and letting it sit for a while I found the air box full of fuel. I'm pretty sure the fuel line is good and believe the leak is coming from the gasket/spacer area. Looking at the IPL for it (600002 F 14-. ), I have some confusion - what's the difference between a carburetor gasket (86189) and a carburetor spacer (84078)? Ones that were on it are very similar to each other but the IPL illustration looks very different (I know those aren't always perfect).
I think my leak is because the indentations on the old ones didn't line up perfectly when I remounted the rebuilt carb and it wasn't seated well.
I want to replace them with seals that my wife can make from 1/16" cork/rubber gasket material I have. Will that work? My wife makes gaskets for me using a Cricut machine and it works great.
Here's some photos of what I'm working with.
Thanks for any input and suggestions or if I need to look at anything else.

 

[vinnywv]

Id venture to say its not a gasket. Fuel should not be there. Id say its carburetor metering not stopping fuel and flooding the airbox. Take the fuel cap loose so vapor pressure doesnt build and push fuel into the carburetor and see if that slows or stops the fuel leaking into the air box. If it does...a gasket is not the issue.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Or its the tank gasket or fuel line

 

[heimannm]

Fuel will not be leaking from that area, those gaskets and spacer could cause an air leak but your fuel leak is either from the fuel line (at the carburetor) or where the fuel line passes through the fuel tank. I often find I have to add a few wraps of Teflon tape on that grommet before you pull it into the tank to achieve a good seal. It is also possible that the fuel tank itself is leaking as the old cork gaskets can shrink over time if they are not kept wet with fuel.

Look again at the two gaskets, then look at the opening in the fuel tank where the spacer sets, you will see why the two gaskets are different.

Mark