McCulloch Chain Saws

[JSMississippi]

Would it be possible to stuff some JBWeld into the cavity, then grind/polish it smooth with the surface (or wipe if you're fast and clean enough)?

 

[vinnywv]

Yes

 

[Rotax Steve]

Would it be possible to stuff some JBWeld into the cavity, then grind/polish it smooth with the surface (or wipe if you're fast and clean enough)?

Thanks for asking the question I was just going to ask. And thank you vinnywv for your answer.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Wash it out with a can of brake clean. Cap the end or umm "join" Inject a syringe full in it feed in some "rebar" (string or lacing wire or something throw some tape over the hole and then tip it up sideways and it will have a nice big block of reinforced resin. Sand off the rash all nice and job done. Could even sneak in some decent wire through the end before ya cap it. Few bits of wire in there it'll never break

 

[Macman125]

That ignition (as has been stated) was used on both the 10 Series and 600 Series saws. Those tan units were generally pretty reliable and definitely deliver a hotter spark than the original two piece electronic ignition set up. Good old McBob (RIP) worked at McCulloch Australia and reported they changed all of the earlier two piece to the one piece electronic ignitions on the SP81E and early PM850 models as they also originally came with the two piece.

There is an even later electronic ignition (223708) that looks quite different but is a bolt on replacement for those older, larger tan or grey units.

View attachment 1237434

If I remember correctly, 223875 is the PN for the coil & laminations, and 223708 is the PN for the assembly with the coil, laminations, and the lead. The lead in the kit is long enough to work on either the 600 or the 10 Series models.

Mark

So I can ditch the points set ups in my 81's, in favor of a 610 coil? Same flywheel between the electronic and points systems on the 10 series?

 

[heimannm]

The flywheels are the same, but the mounts for the coil are different.

This is a "point only" cylinder.



This style will accept either the points type coil or the electronic ignition coil - note that this one does not have both holes drilled & tapped for the electronic coil.



The one on the left will only accept the electronic ignition coil, the one on the right will accept either coil (with a spacer for the points coil).



Mark

 

[heimannm]

The CP125 and SP105/125 saws came with a piece of rubber tubing over the handle bar in that area, PN 69885 Protector - Frame.



I have some "replacement" parts made from a section of 7/8" heater hose.

Mark

 

[ThistleIA]

The CP125 and SP105/125 saws came with a piece of rubber tubing over the handle bar in that area, PN 69885 Protector - Frame.

View attachment 1237796

I have some "replacement" parts made from a section of 7/8" heater hose.

Mark

I have a couple of those,still in the factory plastic bag.Plus my Husqvarna 288XPW has a factory thick rolling rubber hose chain protector that takes any abuse from chain rash.Only saws I have or remember seeing with that type of item that wasnt homemade by the user.

 

[Rotax Steve]

Three questions on my SP81E.
- Is the shield usable or do any of you have recommendations to make it usable?
- The sprocket is in good shape correct?
- I always clean out anything that needs to be with a dental tool, vacuum, degreaser, paper towels and a lot of q-tips. No being familiar with the setup that's underneath all the debris; is there anything I should watch out for or be careful with?
Any suggestions would be helpful (and have been).
Thanks

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Three questions on my SP81E.
- Is the shield usable or do any of you have recommendations to make it usable?
- The sprocket is in good shape correct?
- I always clean out anything that needs to be with a dental tool, vacuum, degreaser, paper towels and a lot of q-tips. No being familiar with the setup that's underneath all the debris; is there anything I should watch out for or be careful with?
Any suggestions would be helpful (and have been).
Thanks

It's a bit tatty sure but won't worry it. The rim still got a turn or 3 in it. Clean away man as long as ya not using a chisel. Drown it in a can of something and hit it with some wind n see how it comes out. I guess be careful of the impulse line and the earth wire. Under the tank. Was it oiling OK? How are the AV mounts. If they are pretty nackerd it be a good idea to do them or you could tear the intake boot.

I'm a tight ass so I made up some rubber blocks and cut the rest of the old rubber off and put some m5 machine screws n nuts right through them. Works OK and kind of adjustable too with the 32 ya can tighten em up a bit for a less wobbly feel but 20 or 24 can loosen them off a bit. Mark or Max probably has some mounts however and probably feel better too but it does work if need be

 

[rwoods]

The CP125 and SP105/125 saws came with a piece of rubber tubing over the handle bar in that area, PN 69885 Protector - Frame.

View attachment 1237796

I have some "replacement" parts made from a section of 7/8" heater hose.

Mark

I figured those were more for sitting your saw down as mine always crawl up the bar when in operation.

Ron

 

[Rotax Steve]

(snip) I guess be careful of the impulse line and the earth wire. Under the tank.

What is the earth wire? The intake system is so different than what I'm used to. I ask because I saw this and they appear to be wires just free floating (I think) around the intake. I can't find anything in the IPL.
As for the oiler? After running it for maybe 3 or 4 minutes I set it down on a piece of cardboard and it left an oil stain. The tank was empty and I haven't tried the manual oiler yet.

 

[JSMississippi]

Interesting Mini Mac hedge trimmer:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1269087387...KVLJWkqQKS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY