McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

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I gotta ask,

Those who have worked on mini macs (probably a good few on here!)

What is the best way that you've found to patch a leaking tank? (the seams of course)

Usually JB weld is the go-to, but I'm curious if anyone's found something better.

If so, what do you use/do when you run into this common problem?
 
Plastic welding with a soldering iron or simply replace the tank which are a dime a dozen. Here's one example of how to do it. Will work on a seam the same as a crack. There are others if you search for em, but you should get the idea. BTW, a flat-tipped soldering iron is a little bit better way to go on larger repairs.

 
Thanks pogo!

Yeah, I like that plastic welding idea. I get if it's beyond repair, it's better to just replace it. Just looking to have a few more tricks up my sleeve for the next time another one of these saws shows up on the bench, which hopefully won't be long :)

I do though have one more question, it's about the fuel/oil caps. Do the usual caps share the same P/N with the tethered type? I thought they were different with 91283 being the tethered cap and 216668 was the classic cap...

I'm wrong on this aren't I?
 
Gravity feed from the tank through the manual valve and to the automatic pump, the tiny piston in the automatic pump pushes it through the check valve and up the tube to the bar mount.

The only path for the oil to get to the crankcase is past the tiny piston (rod) and past the phenolic disc through the body of automatic pump.

Mark

Forgive me for replying to such an old thread, if the check valve in the pump seems to be frozen, is there an easy way to clean it out? I’m talking about the check valve at the base of the hose that runs to the bar.

Thanks!
 
I have had success with carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner, work the diaphragm manually to insure the automatic pump is working.

Mark

Thank you Mark, I sprayed some brake cleaner into it and now I'm letting some WD40 soak into it.

I'm assuming the larger metal rod inside the pump body is not removable, which is why the ball check valve is not serviceable / removable?

This is actually a spare pump on my Mini Mac 35 that i disassembled for practice and to clean it. It's a good thing i didn't try to use it because the spring is missing, and the check valve does not seem to let anything pass through. Does it take a significant pressure for oil to pass through the valve, or just a small amount?
 
Not much pressure needed. In fact that steel sleeve can be removed if you are careful with a pair of pliers. There is a Service Bulletin out there that describes how some saws left the factory with the sleeve/rod pressed in improperly with instructions on how deep they should go. You can look down the pump inlet hole to see that the holes/groove in the sleeve is properly positioned.

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Put a few drops of oil in the inlet hole then work the piston manually, you should see the oil go down the inlet and come up in the outlet.

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Mark
 
Thanks Mark for that excellent post! I can tell exactly how this works now. I'm sure I could carefully coax out the sleeve if I need to. Fortunately the pump i am playing with is a spare so I won't pull it apart unless i need to. It is definitely not working, i put some oil in the inlet and operated the piston by hand and it's not pumping out the other side, i think the check ball is stuck shut. I will let it soak in oil, and maybe even try a needle tip grease gun to force some grease through the passage.
 
Mini Mac 30, B&C replacement
Just was given one of these and after a quick cleaning of the plug and air filter it fired up after a dozen pulls. I suspect it has sat for 30 years or more so I was quite impressed it started and it appears to run just fine. 12" bar and chain are original and in bad shape. Poking around the web I cannot find a referenced replacement. Can someone point me toward a worthy replacement. Looking forward to using this saw for trail maintenance. Thanks.
 
Mini Mac 30, B&C replacement
Just was given one of these and after a quick cleaning of the plug and air filter it fired up after a dozen pulls. I suspect it has sat for 30 years or more so I was quite impressed it started and it appears to run just fine. 12" bar and chain are original and in bad shape. Poking around the web I cannot find a referenced replacement. Can someone point me toward a worthy replacement. Looking forward to using this saw for trail maintenance. Thanks.

I'm pretty sure I was able to pretty easily find a replacement bar and chain on the Oregon website not long ago. Although i didn't buy them, was just looking.
 
Thanks guys. I was searching using the McCulloch bar P/N 90549 and only found one on ebay that looked no better than the one I have. Did the same on the Oregon site with no match. Is there a better path? Placed an order this morning for the 12" bar that heimannm found on Ebay. Thanks so much.
 
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