McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

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The only small carbs I've worked on with a screen behind the inlet seats were Zamas, I believe. You could easily access them, unlike that 35 degree drilling in an MDC carb that feeds the inlet. It still doesn't make any sense to me when there is a screen in the pump cover.
 
Either way it's definitely an anomaly to me. I'll try to see if I can somehow get an even closer look and research this a bit more when I have some time. I'm still not sure on what I saw, but I'll find out.
 
It's going to take me a while, but I have one more gambit to try and use that might be able get myself a good look, and find out what it is. Hopefully if it works, I can figure out the purpose of this thing, or if it's just junk that somehow settled or was put there. I'll post my findings when I can.

I'd also like to add that I saw this on the MDC for the Mini Mac 30 I finished, but it seems to run and flows fine, so I don't think it could be a build up or blockage of debris or felt fuzz. And it didn't look like a solid valve, but porous like a sieve.
I'm not ruling anything out though.
 
Out of curiosity, I looked through every IPL and service bulletin I have on the Mini-Macs and small Mac carbs. The only parts in the vicinity of the H needle seat would appear to be the check valve components and the needle spring. Given proper inlet screens being in place, etc., it would seem like the only route for any debris to even get to the seat would either be from the needle passage or the check valve location. I'm still putting my money on foreign material, perhaps introduced by the needle being removed and replaced for whatever reason with something hitch-hiking back inside on either the spring or needle.

I also happen to be tearing down a MM 30 today with no spark and will obviously be investigating the carb (among other things) while I have it apart as well. The curiosity is killing me. LOL
 
So I MIGHT have something here for fixing those Mini pulleys that are really broken. Here's a bunch of pics. I've had a metal recoil pawl on my car keys for months looking for something that fits, lol. Turns out, the female threaded end of gray PVC 3/4" coupler is about darn near perfect press-fit.
Cutting, measuring, checking clearance.... I think this could very well work. Too many steps to describe, but i think the pics tell the story.
 

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Pretty cool and quite innovative. What is the fastening method to attach everything to the pulley itself? Just the original screw and washer?
My plan is a bit involved. 4 tiny screws in the four "ears" on the 1 1/2" flange, cut down so that they just catch the pulley sheave without getting into the rope. The other element will be JB Weld 2-part clear epoxy (for plastic, etc).
Once everything is sturdy, I will attach it to the pulley cover with the original screw and washer. BUT....since I had to hacksaw off part or the pulley center that the screw and washer butt up to, I also need to make an insert. 1/2" pvc pipe seems to be about perfect to make a collar insert. I will share pics.
I realize how insane this is...but when these pulleys REALLY shatter, they are otherwise junk. And replacements are almost impossible to find or stupid expensive on Flea-Bay.
So far I am quite optimistic
 
Great. But let's face it... We're McCulloch guys and on top of that, Mini Mac nuts... So of course we're ambitious! :)
But seriously, I hope it works out for you and you're able to post some good news.
 
Out of curiosity, what seems to be the main reason these hubs fail in the first place? I would think a loose screw would certainly be one. Simple material fatigue another?
My theory is the process of pressing the metal pawl into the plastic cup on the pulley cracks them, all of them. I have NEVER see one that wasn't cracked around the plastic cup.
Then all it takes is a few backfires when almost stalled or trying to start it, blam-oh.
You can see the one broken pulley in my pics, that was a backfire.
 
Sooo...., it sounds like bad timing is a common denominator among failed pulleys.

Speaking of bad timing, my no-spark MM is now a runner, albeit a pretty ragged one. Coincidentally, it seems like a timing issue -- complete with occasional backfiring before it finally fires. Also sounds like weird detonation occurring while it's idling. I can dial it in for a fairly snappy throttle response and it settles back down as it should, then starts to knock and ping until I lean it out some. My intention is to revisit the points which were essentially black when I initially checked them. Changed the condenser, cleaned them the best I could and they looked good with good spark, but may have been gapped a little tight. I struggled with that for some reason and am not confident they were set correctly. Didn't seem like there was any way to do it with the precision I'm used to when setting points. I'm probably overlooking something very simple there.

And without doing any searching, has anyone figured out where to stick a chip in one o' these? Not much real estate to hide one even with the condenser removed. Could at least eliminate one reason to tear one apart a second time -- for ignition problems, anyway.
 
I can't help with installing a chip, honestly I've had pretty good luck with the ignition on these saws once the points are clean and gapped. These saws seem highly sensitive to dirty points and losing spark.
They are definitely a pain in the a$$ to gap accurately, I've had the best luck having the points loosened just enough to be able to move them, keep the feeler gauge in the points, adjust them until the gauge feels some drag, and then fully tighten the set screw. It always takes me a few tries until it seems very close to .018".
The detonating is a weird issue, and speaking of timing, how do you adjust the timing on a saw with fixed timing? I suppose the points gap has some affect, but otherwise it's pretty much fixed.
Hence the introduction of electronic ignitions with variable timing curves.
 
Could well be, Mark. I didn't get a chance to get back to it today for further investigation. It'll be the first thing I check. Thanks.

and speaking of timing, how do you adjust the timing on a saw with fixed timing? I suppose the points gap has some affect, but otherwise it's pretty much fixed.
The points gap can have a significant effect on timing even though the 'correct' timing is 26 degrees BTDC when the points are gapped to 0.018.
0.001 of deviation equals +/-1 degree in either direction which is approximately 1/16th of an inch of flywheel rotation from the timing mark and lamination edges according to the info in the PM6 manual. Mac's method of checking the timing involves the Merc-O-Tronic tester, but can also be easily achieved with a timing light or digital multi meter.
 
Question: Got a McCulloch Wildcat that someone dumped Bar Oil in the Gas Tank. I got it cleaned up and running…issue is that it is kind of a challenge to start (about 15 pulls or so). Once it gets warmed up though, it starts up RA FH time. Idles perfectly. Revs up perfectly…just a little cagey cold starting.

anyone else have issues starting this model of saw? I bought a carb kit…just can’t decide rather I want to rebuild the carb or just deal with it…
 
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