McCulloch SE2114 (?) needed some help. I recently acquired this saw from someone on one of the forums...getting old I guess...I got it because I thought I needed one for my display but when I looked up front I found I had one already. The 300 Series saws (PM310, 320, 330, 340, etc....) are in fact good small saws but they can be a pain to work on with so much going on in the air box with the throttle cable, impulse line, and fuel line. In addition, the sheath on the throttle cables always seem to be broken making the throttle difficult to impossible to operate.
I am running low on small saws to sell so I thought I'd give this one a good going over to make it whole again for someone wanting a smaller saw.
On my initial disassembly I found the coil was completely loose inside the housing and evidently the saw had been running with the coil loose as the lamination were badly damaged. The saw needed a good cleaning in any case.
As per usual, the throttle cable sheath was broken in several places.
The throttle return springs on these are very strong to overcome the friction of the wire within the sheath making reassembly a real challenge.
To help hold things together during assembly, I use a #6 x 3/8" sheet metal screw to hold that trigger in place.
It is still a challenge with the throttle cable, release, and rubber mount in the rear of the handle but the screw makes it at least possible.
I somehow ended up with a number of the throttle cables for the 330/340 type saws with the extended rear handle and only one or two for the 310/320 type with the top handles. To modify the cable I straighten out the hook on the carburetor end and slide the sheath off, cut it to 10-1/2" long, and reform the hook for the throttle keeping the extension between 1-7/16 and 1-1/2". Too long and it won't open the throttle fully, too short and the saw won't be able to return to idle.
Do as I say, not as I do.
I first tried squeezing the original laminations back together (not too bad) and reusing the original coil but either the laminations were far enough out to affect the operation, or the coil had issues but upon reassembly for the first time the saw clearly had ignition issues.
The next attempt was a NOS coil from the attic with the same SEM Walbro numbers as the original but the plug was a bit too short and I could not get the fuel tank to fit in the allotted space. Next I found a different looking coil that had a longer wire but physically fit the space and put the saw back together again. The saw would run, albeit not very well, starting the saw clearly demonstrated the timing was too far advanced, and it would idle for a few seconds then die requiring use of the choke to get it started again. Based on that I presumed I had a fuel/carburetor issue so take it all apart again.
I'd already cleaned the carburetor and installed new diaphragms and gaskets...this time I removed the check valve (tested fine but replaced it anyway), removed the welch plug and cleaned underneath (looked good in any case), and back together again. I used a slightly longer impulse line this time to make sure I didn't have any leaks at the ends. Pressure test the carburetor and it slowly leaks down so take it apart and replace the metering needle. For your information, the Zama C1 on the 300 saws uses the same metering needle as the Walbro SDC carburetors. Now it holds pressure so put the saw back together again. It runs just like it did before...
Take it all apart again, I'd already done a pressure test on the crankcase but thought I'd check it again...still holds pressure but it does seem to leak down slowly...dunk it in water and find a small leak bubbling through the automatic oil pump...not so unusual really and not enough to alter the performance of the saw. I decided this time to vacuum test as well, absolutely won't hold any vacuum so the crankcase comes apart, replace the seals and bearings while I' at it.
I have high hope for the saw at this point so back together again (what's this, #5, #6, ???) and honestly no change in the way it runs...rough on top, idles too fast but slowly looses RPM and dies...that advanced ignition during starting has me concerned so I took the SEM Wabro ignition (NOS mind you) and remove the spark plug lead and replace it with the longer one that was on the saw originally. Well what do you know, the saw now starts normally, accelerates nicely, adjusts as expected at high speed...why didn't I put the correct ignition in it to begin with?
I always test the automatic oil pump off the saw by manually working the piston, and the oil pump is fine. Add oil to the tank, fire up the saw and within 30 seconds or so we have a nice stream of oil pumping out.
Time to finally assemble the bar, chain, and clutch cover only to remember the brake band was broken.
...
Mark