McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

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Hi Mark
I am trying to test the coil off of a Promac 510.
I have the coil off the motor and on the bench, meter set to 2K.
When I test from:
Base to kill wire tab I get 0
Base to high tension lead I get 8.07
Kill wire tab to high tension lead I get 8.06
These numbers don't look good to me.
Do you know what the specs are for this coil?
Thanks
Joe
 
The PM510 is a points saw, secondary windings (high tension to ground or points lead) should be 8K ohm +/- .5 k ohm or so.

Primary will be around 1 ohm, you can't see that on a 2K ohm scale as it will appear to be zero.

Since the stop tab and the point tab are only 1 ohm apart you will see the same reading from the high tension to either terminal.

I'm guessing you're actually on a 20 k ohm scale since 8k ohm would register as an open on a 2K scale.

Mark
 
Spark is good now. I have the white drum rope asy. I need the pin, spring and pawl, one of each. P/Ns 68796, 67814 and 94493. Is this something you might have? I also need 94142 if you have it.
 
I recently found an Eager Beaver 2.0 in the yellow case at my dads house. Hasn’t been touched in 20 years, and wasn’t cleaned after use. Pulled over a bit then stopped. Early Sunday morning, I pulled the plug and it was full of oil, perhaps bar oil. I drained and rinsed the crankcase best I could with premix. Pulled covers off both sides and blew out as much garbage as I could. Soaked the chain, cleaned out the bar. Washed all parts in used premix tub I have. Cleaned up the air filter some and reassembled. Added some bar oil and red armor mix 30:1. Eagerly, it fired and ran, and besides minor carb adjustment, it seems okay. Bar oils and it don’t smoke like hell running. Now I’m inspired to work on these mini’s. I have a 120 and a 130. Fixed the 120 no spark condition by cleaning and setting the points. Awaiting a carb kit and that tampon in the tank. Should I attempt changing filter in tank? Advice? Leave well enough alone? It’s cruddy looking on both sides and fuel only drips thru it.
 
Fuel never runs through them, always just a drip. I made a "tool" out of a short piece of wooden dowel with a handle to push those filters into the tank and remove them from there, then use the tool to properly seat the new filter in the tank. Be careful using a screwdriver or other instrument with a long, pointed projection since it may be hard to slow the tool once the filter is dislodged.

Mark
 
Just be warned... fixing these little Macs becomes an addiction, you see people selling or throwing them out EVERYWHERE and before you know it you have a pile of em haha...

The only people that get rid of the little Macs are the guys that aren't man enough to fix em. 😁
 
Fuel never runs through them, always just a drip. I made a "tool" out of a short piece of wooden dowel with a handle to push those filters into the tank and remove them from there, then use the tool to properly seat the new filter in the tank. Be careful using a screwdriver or other instrument with a long, pointed projection since it may be hard to slow the tool once the filter is dislodged.

Mark
Thanks Mark.
I may leave well enough alone and shelf the filter. Carb is a MDC, and I will kit that and see how it runs.
 
Just be warned... fixing these little Macs becomes an addiction, you see people selling or throwing them out EVERYWHERE and before you know it you have a pile of em haha...

The only people that get rid of the little Macs are the guys that aren't man enough to fix em. 😁
The knowledge on this site helps tremendously. I’ve read a lot.
 

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