3 year old saw with low hours... means 200T sat around for a bit.
fuel can and does gum up from sitting in carb.
inside 200T are tiny orifices, along with an air mix tube. every orifice inside carb has to be verified as open and clear. best way is to use spray carb cleaner with a tube.
with safety glasses. place tip of carb cleaner over one hole at a time. spray and watch if mist comes out other side of orifice.
lockout pin has to be removed to clean out high speed adjustment screw/jet. if your saw is not idling, it probably circuit below low speed screw.
to do a proper carb rebuild job, one needs a precision drill set and/or carb jet reaming tool. note drill sets below were purchased at local steve's wholesale tools for $3 per set.
if you are rebuilding lots of carbs, you should be properly equipped with a miniature drill index set like below. it will restore a carb back to new performance.
here's a picture of a nice precision drill set. simply match up hole size with correct drill. don't enlarge holes, the idea is to clear out orifice back to original size.
as lake pointed out, make sure all your diafram rubber are in good shape. if needle & seat are holding, diafram are good, butterfly shaft are tight and all orifices are rendered back to stock size. then carb has to work properly!!!
always use factory presets when first starting up. 3/4 turn from bottom for high, 1 turn for low, 1/2 turn for butterfly, or what ever...
The saw serial number is 162356114. The saw is 3 years old. What do I have to take off to tell which carb that I have? Can I put a new O ring in the carb if the carb body is still good? How much is a new carb? Is there a non chinese made carb available? Is Stihl doing a silent warranty of any sort?
I will look at it this weekend.
THANKS Andy
. Zama China carbs aren´t good quality? Or what is the problem?
