Ms 200 T Dies At Idle

[Lakeside53]

as lake pointed out, make sure all your diafram rubber are in good shape. if needle & seat are holding, diafram are good, butterfly shaft are tight and all orifices are rendered back to stock size. then carb has to work properly!!!

Sadly, not true in the case of the C1Q61x.. The body wears around the accelerator pump (the leaks in air) and you can't put metal back. Also, todays (EPA) carbs have non-replaceable check vaves. You can't get them out to even clean beneath them... if an ultrasonic clean doesn't "fix" them, the carb is toast.

 

[046]

sure sounds like 200T carb can flat wear out.... have not met a carb that I couldn't get running right.... yet

Sadly, not true in the case of the C1Q61x.. The body wears around the accelerator pump (the leaks in air) and you can't put metal back. Also, todays (EPA) carbs have non-replaceable check vaves. You can't get them out to even clean beneath them... if an ultrasonic clean doesn't "fix" them, the carb is toast.

 

[Lakeside53]

I thought that too.. until the last couple of years... In addition to the the usual H check valves, they now have check valves on the mid range and low range jets, but these two are not replaceable.

The Walbo HD - one of the best carbs around, now has an L check valve.

 

[046]

in this particular case with 200T having low hours. unlikely accelerator metal is worn out. but can check valves be gummed so bad, carb still needs to be replaced?

carb orifices inside my 200T are some of the tiniest I've ever seen.

I thought that too.. until the last couple of years... In addition to the the usual H check valves, they now have check valves on the mid range and low range jets, but these two are not replaceable.

The Walbo HD - one of the best carbs around, now has an L check valve.

 

[TheKid]

spark arrestor

Frank, I have experienced similar problems which were solved by thoroughly cleaning the spark arrestor. simple green and a brass brush worked for me. I am by no means a chainsaw mechanic so when something goes wrong, I go in the easiest order of possibilities for solutions. ie. does it have gas in it? is the switch on? spark plug?... good luck, just trying to present a possible solution that may have been overlooked.

 

[Lakeside53]

in this particular case with 200T having low hours. unlikely accelerator metal is worn out. but can check valves be gummed so bad, carb still needs to be replaced?

carb orifices inside my 200T are some of the tiniest I've ever seen.

can be.. but some of the bodys on the "A" version has burrs that cut the o-rings..

First thing - determine if it's the carb by simple subsitution. If it is, ultrasonic clean in colemen fluid might do the trick if it's check valves. Just don't blast air though it..

 

[Frank Boyer]

On Saturday I took it apart and blew out the carb. It looked clean. The fuel tank hose had cracking, but no sign of fuel seepage. Tonight I installed a new fuel line and readjusted the carb. It was high 30's and dark so I didn't get a chance to cut with it. The idle seemed better and it didn't die out. That is an improvement. I used the carb adjust method from the manual. Get the low side to its highest rpm and set the idle to 4000 rpm. Then ritchen up the low side to 2700 rpm. I set the high side to 13900 or so. I hope to cut with it this weekend.
Andy, THANKS AGAIN

 

[pgg]

Yeah, the 200T's, the new ones, they're getting over complicated with all sorts of B.S. in their carbs, the 'compensater' or whatever the hell it is, it's a prime example of excess junk, the guys at work use 200T's, admittedly they've always got power to burn, 'specially if 'tweaked'. I stick with the XPT's myself, the XPT's having non B.S. walbro carbs - well, they did have - the very latest ones I don't know. But for the dodgy idle and over -rev lean symptom on the 200T, I've heard it a few times now, strip and blow out the tank breather, quite simple, could possibly cure it

 

[ptjeep]

I know this thread is 3 yrs old but figured i would post it here for searches to find. Got a zama 61D carb that dies as soon as you touch the throttle. Just passed a vac test and also installed a new intake boot(small tear) and no change in throttle response. I have read about people who blocked off the troublesome accelerator pump and was wondering where it is exactly that you block off? On the face of the carb that butts against the air filter, there is a small aluminum oval welch plug and a small round plastic plug. Which one is for the accel pump? I plan to use jb weld, is that ok? Thanks.

 

[angelo c]

search for "carbitooter"

or just click....http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/147764.htm

 

[ptjeep]

Thanks, thats exactly what i was looking for.uttahere2:

 

[lone wolf]

I thought that too.. until the last couple of years... In addition to the the usual H check valves, they now have check valves on the mid range and low range jets, but these two are not replaceable.

The Walbo HD - one of the best carbs around, now has an L check valve.

Is that Walbro hd new or old I am looking to replace a carb on a Ms200t now any advice?

 

[046]

an old thread yes, but Lake gave some of the soundest advice on AS.
sure miss Lakeside's super cooool posts.

recently sold a good running 020T and let a two screw 020T carb get away from me.
should have switched out carb from my 200T before selling :bang:

3 year and 3 weeks actually

After 3 years? warranty...? doubt it, but try you dealer... he might be able to do something for you. New carb is about $80.

Take the filter off, the two nuts holding the filter base, and remove the base.

Pull off the fuel line (clamp it if you have gas in the tank). Remove the carb screw grommet, and slide out the carb a little. Pop of the choke rod, and slide the carb fully out. The throttle linkage will fall off when the carb is almost out, and that's the same point you re-attach it when you put it back on!

The carb numbers are either stamped or laser etched onto the body. I'm betting it's an "A". best way to prove it's the carb is to simply put another on. Only takes a few minutes. Maybe you dealer has a spare "known to be good" carb.


Do check the impulse lines and fuel lines...

Replacing the accelerator pump rarely fixes the problem. The c1QS61D or E version is a fine replacement. Other than that you'd need to dig around to find a used two screw walbro from an old 020T - but they are hard to find.

 

[angelo c]

Ive tried to seal off two carbs so far and have had no luck. decided to buy a new carb and its working great so far. Stihler told me the only one still in production was the C1Q-S16A. it works fine but the high and low adjusters don't line up with the original rubber cover. No biggie as I just take the cover off to tune and put it back on. problem gone...$88 out the door. Man I love a few good running 200t's.

 

[lone wolf]

View attachment 194218View attachment 194218

 

[lone wolf]

I have been running them since the 020 t first came out I have bought about 10 of them .It seems every damn carb has gone bad .I must of spent 600.00 on new carbs so far .But I love the saw .Lets see how the new carbs hold up.

 

[rbrown]

My Stihl MS200T Adventures

I work on chainsaws as a hobby and some times out necessity.

A friend owns a tree service and he has a few MS200Ts that have the problem that most complain about. Poor or erratic idle and dying when throttling up. I read all the posts and determined a new Zama carburetor was needed. Stihl owns Zama so I had to get it at the Stihl dealer which is still available and it is a C1Q-S126A 1129-120-0653 ($98) and comes with a new cover plate for the three adjustment screws that are not EPA.

The saw ran better but still not good and since I did air press/vac test previously I took a wild guess that it was an air leak between the carb and the rubber manifold so I formed a gasket out gasket material and placed it between the carb and manifold like the old time saws.

Now when you hit the throttle this little beast wants to jump out of your hand. This saw has been used allot and I think the manifold gets hard and doesn't make a good seal. The manifold is $31 and is probably the right fix.

I observed while working on my friends saw's that the P/C looked new and covered with oil. I know that these saws work hard for a living and asked him what was the mix. Husqvarna XP oil @ 50-1 and 93 octane gas.