Ms 260 rebuild, FINALLY complete!

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Well, months of waiting, travelling with it to 4 different countries, days cleaning and stripping it and hours putting it back together with new parts. It’s finally done.

What once was a scored mess is now a beautiful early 2000’s ms 260 pro.

The hardest part of the rebuild was fitting a new oil line to the oil pump and through to where it meets the bar. The bloody thing is so stiff it won’t push through the hole and for the life of me I couldn’t get the brass cone thing into the new hose. Does anyone know what it actually does or what purpose it serves? Hopefully not much because it ain’t going in!

I have pressure and vac tested all lines, fuel tank, engine and carb. All is good apart from a leaky decomp so replacing with a plug. It has good spark and the saw will just about hold by the starter rope. It drops very very slowly and will do so with a clunk! I will add the plug and re pressure and vacuum test it and then take
It out to see if it starts and tunes!

Thanks to everyone who has made my first full rebuild possible. I can’t possibly tag everyone, but it’s been such a joy (mostly)

Please let me know if you know what the role of that brass insert is for and if next time, I can use Tygon because fighting that black tubing again will give me grey hairs!

 

[blsnelling]

All you need for that oil line is a little heat.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

All you need for that oil line is a little heat.

Urgrrrrrr such a simple solution! I’m an idiot... and that plug? Any idea why it’s even there? Doesn’t show it in the manual.

 

[blsnelling]

Are you talking about the brass "ferrule" that goes in the end? That's to keep it from collapsing.

No, Tygon would be a bad idea.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Are you talking about the brass "ferrule" that goes in the end? That's to keep it from collapsing.

No, Tygon would be a bad idea.

Yeah that’s the one. Ah I have no concern about that happening, it’s basically solid plastic! Thanks if that happens years down the track I can try again. Just wanted to make sure it wasn’t going to cause problems in the near future

 

[Allar]

Love it how clean everything is, not just the saw but also the table. Well done mate.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Love it how clean everything is, not just the saw but also the table. Well done mate.

Thanks Allar mate really appreciate it

 

[cuinrearview]

I don't know, with everything still clean and un-tested I think I'd have to take it back down and put that ferrule in. Just so I could know that it's DONE.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I don't know, with everything still clean and un-tested I think I'd have to take it back down and put that ferrule in. Just so I could know that it's DONE.

It’s broken, both were squished trying to get them on haha.

 

[cuinrearview]

It’s broken, both were squished trying to get them on haha.

 

[John Lyngdal]

Well done. Time to make that clean saw a little dirty.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Well done. Time to make that clean saw a little dirty.

Can’t wait i’m like a kid at Christmas!

 

[Short timer]

Can’t wait i’m like a kid at Christmas!

Nice job, brother!

 

[trains]

Can’t wait i’m like a kid at Christmas!

Toms place at Christmas time

 

[TheTone]

For a job like the oil line, I would use more line than needed, clean out the channel with a stiff round brush, grease it with silicone grease and thread the tubing through. A little back and forth twisting should get it through. Then with the excess sticking out, dip about half an inch in boiling water to soften it up, push the tubing onto a pair of needlenose pliers and expand it slightly by opening the handles. The insert should easily slide in. Let it cool completely, cut the line off flush, then pull the excess line back in with the insert edge about one mm inside the outlet edge. Good idea to push it into the recess to make sure it doesn't pop out. Then cut off from the other end what you need to in order to fit it on the oil pump outlet. This process could also be performed from the other direction.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Okk, just have ordered another length of the tubing and will try a 3rd time with all your advice thanks so much all!

 

[Mad Professor]

Haha it’s very awkward, very tight and doesn’t fit. I can keep an eye on it though. Any issues and I can try again. It’s strange, only the end has the ferrule so I’m not sure what’s stopping the rest of the pipe collapsing?

There should be a wire coil that fits inside the oil delivery hose. It keeps the hose from collapsing/kinking. Did you forget that?

The hose is very stiff cold, but it will get very hot/pliable from heat from the clutch and bar.

The wire coil does not appear in the IPL or service manual. It comes with the hose kit along with the brass ferule. The kit has enough hose for two saws , or gives you a 2nd chance if you hurt the hose during 1st attempt.

I use a lighter to heat the hose, and pliers to slip it on. Don't heat it too much or it will mush up when you try to install it. Use the pliers on the unheated portion that is still stiff.

Pics are from a 036 but same deal. 1st picture the brass ferule is already installed and hose cut to length

Edit: One more thing, the brass ferrule makes the end of the hose a slight interference fit in the case. With that sealed the bar oil can only go towards the bar and not seep back into the clutch/oil pump housing.

 

[trains]

It’s broken, both were squished trying to get them on haha.

 

[huskihl]

The brass ferrule seals the hose to the case so oil actually flows through the bar oil hole instead of between the hose and case and back into the oil pump/clutch area

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

The brass ferrule seals the hose to the case so oil actually flows through the bar oil hole instead of between the hose and case and back into the oil pump/clutch area

This makes sense!! Thank you