I chunked down last week with a 361 i have that brad ported and it pulled 28" with full skip just tits...i put the pump parts from a 461R in and it kept the bar wet.
There must be more to the story as why spend the bucks for a short lived venture if it can be accomplished with what you have and in about the same time? H'mm a sub-variation of cad maybe? Like to tinker with the old saw? New long bar creates an excuse to upgrade to a saw designed for it? Or maybe it is really all about the table tops. If they are worth the cost of a bar and your intended upgrade then go for it. Either way I would cut it, they would still be wedge shaped.
Ron
It's not stock anymore. The cylinder has been cleaned up/light port as well as muffler modded. I don't doubt you that a stock 361 would not like it, but it's not stock. I've already run it really pretty hard milling and it stays really cool all things considered.I don't think a stock 361 will like it at all. Considering the Chinese 660 is under $300 shipped you may as well just hold out and make the table cutting a lot more fun.
Yep, nearly 100% Huztl. If the cylinder burns up yeah it's a setback, but not the worst. Gives me an excuse to get the big bore kit, and toss a 660 kit in the cart to finish the job up.It's a huztl aftermarket one anyways right? The cylinder kit is $16 if you burn it up. Guess it wouldn't be the worst thing ever but still inconvenient.
Yep, nearly 100% Huztl. If the cylinder burns up yeah it's a setback, but not the worst. Gives me an excuse to get the big bore kit, and toss a 660 kit in the cart to finish the job up.
Haha, not helping me here! I will get the kit eventually, but just don't know quite when.Let me help with that urge. Kit copy crack.
http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...nk-Cylinder-Piston-Ignition-Coil-p225729.html
Wouldn't one of those newer lightweight bars solve that problem?If you have the power , and the HO oiler, you still have the issue of the bar being too heavy for the AV springs. This can pull on the intake boot and causing an air leak, which was one of the 361's weak points. A 20" or 24" bar will get the job done and it won't be as hard on your saw.
Haha, you wish! This little experiment is going to turn out so well it will be the new rage for all the people who are capped out with 60cc saws.If you buy a stihl light bar 32 or 36" let me know when you're ready to sell it used [emoji51]
Wouldn't one of those newer lightweight bars solve that problem?
Haha, you wish! This little experiment is going to turn out so well it will be the new rage for all the people who are capped out with 60cc saws.
Well, at the very worst I would have to get another saw, because when left unattended for more than a month, those bars usually get caught sleeping on someone else's saw.[emoji23]
Isn't it a 60cc saw?
I had been told by the local shop that idling a saw actually built up more heat than running it.
I think if I was attempting this, I would make the kerf/cut as close to a (yah I had to Google this) Isosceles Trapezoid,View attachment 581401 as possible. So I was doing everything I could to minimize the surface area the saw is trying to cut at any given moment.
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