MS201t Problem

[Ddogwood]

The starter rotor, bit that the rope winds onto part no 5 on pg 13 of IPL, and the starter pawls connect to, is that worn, and canting over and binding when under more load ie plug in. Had a 660 that had that issue.

with the starter recoil assy off, is the crank easy to turn or hard with that removed ?

Thanks! Now that is something that I haven't looked at.

Does it make weird squealing - binding noise when the plug is out and you pull it over?

Nope.

Maybe its the rotor in the starter housing. Not correctly on the post,worn to the point its wobbly, or bad internals. Had one do that to me once, every time I'd go to start it under compression, the rotor would tilt and bind up against the flywheel. Had to put new innards in the starter assembly.

Another good suggestion. I haven't looked specifically for that. Thanks.

Could be tight main bearings
I just got a box of MS460,so i decided to pull the cyl,it was missing a bolt.
with everything removed,clutch,flywheel it is hard to turn the crank in the cases.
I am going to split the cases to check out the bearings

It is not the bearings, but thanks.

Take it off and see how easy it is to turn over by hand with flywheel

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Good thought. Thanks

 

[Ddogwood]

I have been working on small engines since I was 9 years old, but this one has truly stumped me. I will get out to the shop in the next day, or so, and check out everything that you folks have suggested regarding the starting mechanism, and get back to you with what I find. Cross your fingers. Thanks everybody!

Ddogwood

 

[lone wolf]

I have been working on small engines since I was 9 years old, but this one has truly stumped me. I will get out to the shop in the next day, or so, and check out everything that you folks have suggested regarding the starting mechanism, and get back to you with what I find. Cross your fingers. Thanks everybody!

Ddogwood

Isn't that the only thing left?

 

[tomdcoker]

Maybe its the rotor in the starter housing. Not correctly on the post,worn to the point its wobbly, or bad internals. Had one do that to me once, every time I'd go to start it under compression, the rotor would tilt and bind up against the flywheel. Had to put new innards in the starter assembly.

All of the above. It could be cracked part of the way around the circumference of the sprocket and when you poll the cord it expands and causes binding.

 

[lone wolf]

All of the above. It could be cracked part of the way around the circumference of the sprocket and when you poll the cord it expands and causes binding.

It prob is because what else haven't you done?

 

[Ddogwood]

Isn't that the only thing left?

Seems so.

 

[lone wolf]

Seems so.

Prob!

 

[mkinslow]

Any updates on this?

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[Ddogwood]

Any updates on this?

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Not yet. I have been very busy at work, and just haven't had a chance to look at it. But, I will get back to you ASAP. Thanks for your interest.
Ddogwood

 

[Ddogwood]

Not yet. I have been very busy at work, and just haven't had a chance to look at it. But, I will get back to you ASAP. Thanks for your interest.
Ddogwood

 

[Ddogwood]

Any updates on this?

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So, I took a look at the pull starter assembly. I first pulled the spark plug to check the pull-start with it in, and it pulled easily. I then put the plug back in, and the pull-start became very hard, plus made a bit of noise, but nothing alarming. So, I removed the assembly and visually checked it; nothing obviously wrong with it; I pulled the cord; all worked fine. I inspected the pawl and looked for any indication of wear and if it was functioning properly, and everything was fine. The only thing that I noticed was that the bale was a bit wobbly.

Given that I have gone through everything else on this saw, I purchased a new OEM starter online, which will be delivered tomorrow.

I will let you know what happens.

Ddogwood

 

[Ddogwood]

So, I took a look at the pull starter assembly. I first pulled the spark plug to check the pull-start with it in, and it pulled easily. I then put the plug back in, and the pull-start became very hard, plus made a bit of noise, but nothing alarming. So, I removed the assembly and visually checked it; nothing obviously wrong with it; I pulled the cord; all worked fine. I inspected the pawl and looked for any indication of wear and if it was functioning properly, and everything was fine. The only thing that I noticed was that the bale was a bit wobbly.

Given that I have gone through everything else on this saw, I purchased a new OEM starter online, which will be delivered tomorrow.

I will let you know what happens.

Ddogwood

So, I got the new OEM Starter Assembly. Before I installed it, I compared it to the old one; there was a noticeable difference in the between the bales. The new one has no wobble, while the old one wobbles markedly in comparison. Anyway, I installed the new starter assembly and it is still damn hard to pull start.

However, the saw did start, and I discovered that the bar was bad and made a lot of noise, so I purchased a new bar and chain and installed them.

So, now I have replaced everything on the saw: New head and piston assembly, new crankcase assembly, new OEM flywheel, new OEM starter assembly, bar and chain. I have torn it apart completely three times to make sure that everything has been assembled correctly, and it checks out. It is in reality a new saw!

Current condition:
The saw starts and runs great! It accelerates beautifully without hesitation, or strain, idles great, cuts well, in general, runs as you would expect it to run.

EXCEPT IT STILL IS UNBELIEVABLY HARD TO PULL-START!

In order to start it, I have to place the saw on the ground, hold it tightly to the ground using my left hand on to top handle, and placing my right knee on the air filter cover and pull with my right hand. I have to pull so hard that it feels like the rope is going to break. But, then it starts and runs great!

I am totally stumped at this point.

I've got this Stihl MS201T climbing saw, that is basically brand new, that can't be used as a climbing saw, because there is no way that you could start it while up in a tree!

I like a good challenge, but this is ridiculous.

Ddogwood

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Hi ,would you like to sell your old parts?
I have a saw that needs some parts to make a runner out of it

 

[lone wolf]

Did you leave the cyl base gasket out when you assembled for a performance enhancement by chance? You said with the plug out it pulls easily this leads me to believe it is what I suggested. Does it in fact pull over easy with plug out now but not in?
Also is it assembled with an aftermarket piston and cylinder?

 

[lone wolf]

I might have a couple used OEM cylinders here. I could look at the shape of them. Are with able to do a compression test on that saw? Do you have the right 10 MM adapter with a Schrader at the tip?

 

[boltonranger]

I would really love to hear a compression reading on this...

 

[lone wolf]

I would really love to hear a compression reading on this...

Sounds like its the compression if everything else was accurate. You need a proper adapter for the right reading. Long story, what it took to figure it out for me. Snap On sells an adapter hose about 50.00 and it was still off on the reading until I changed the Schrader valve. Now its dialed in, I cross checked it 3 times and it works right. I am satisfied with the Snap On adapter and recommend. With the wrong adapter with the Schrader too high in all the cheaper ones I was getting 130 PSI in all my saws and stuff,with the right adapter 160 PSI.

 

[Ddogwood]

Did you leave the cyl base gasket out when you assembled for a performance enhancement by chance? You said with the plug out it pulls easily this leads me to believe it is what I suggested. Does it in fact pull over easy with plug out now but not in?
Also is it assembled with an aftermarket piston and cylinder?

Yes. It is an aftermarket piston and cylinder, but remember, it was hard to pull with the OEM Piston & Cylinder. And, no, I didn't leave the gasket out.

 

[Ddogwood]

Sounds like its the compression if everything else was accurate. You need a proper adapter for the right reading. Long story, what it took to figure it out for me. Snap On sells an adapter hose about 50.00 and it was still off on the reading until I changed the Schrader valve. Now its dialed in, I cross checked it 3 times and it works right. I am satisfied with the Snap On adapter and recommend. With the wrong adapter with the Schrader too high in all the cheaper ones I was getting 130 PSI in all my saws and stuff,with the right adapter 160 PSI.

This is what I was saying before. It pulls like a much bigger saw that requires a compression release to start.

 

[Ddogwood]

I might have a couple used OEM cylinders here. I could look at the shape of them. Are with able to do a compression test on that saw? Do you have the right 10 MM adapter with a Schrader at the tip?

No. I don't have the proper set-up to give it a compression test