Ms260pro oil pump help?

[hogjaws]

Hey everybody, Thanks in advance, Longtime lurker 1st post.
I have read many helpful posts in the past and enjoy the site much.
Hope someone can help, I am a weekend firewood guy and recently
purchased a used ms260 pro, it was used little and not kept clean
and I suspect the oil pump has some debris clogging it up. Can anyone
suggest the best way to check this and clear it. Thanks to all again for all
the great info this site provides.

 

[bcorradi]

Is it outputting any oil or is it just outputting a minimal amount?

 

[hogjaws]

Oil output is small so I dont think it is totally clogged

 

[bcorradi]

Ok

You do know that your MS260 pro is outfitted with the adjustable oiler which doesn't output any oil when it is at idle right?

 

[hogjaws]

BTW this saw was barely used, only a couple of times but the guy cut up a bunch of pine trees with it and never cleaned it. It was a mess, but I picked it up with another Ms260 both for 300.00 Could'nt pass them up. Now they look like new, anyway I do not suspect a bad oil pump just clogged.

 

[hogjaws]

Yes the reg ms260 that came with pumps at idle but the pro will not pump
when running either.

 

[wood4heat]

I had a similar problem with my 361, I took the bar off to see what was going on and found the small hole on the bar that oil passes through was plugged. I used a small stick to clear it and it took care of my problem. Now I carry a pick in my tool bag in case it happens again.

 

[bcorradi]

If you are sure it is not the oil passages in the bar that are plugged then you will need to further inspect the oiler.

In order to rule out the bar just remove the bar and chain and inspect the flow with the sprocket cover removed.

If it has very few hours like you state the oiler line being plugged would make the most sense. In order to remove the oiler line you will need to remove the clutch drum and the clutch. If you need help removing any of them let us know. Plus while your in there you can clean the oiler area.

 

[hogjaws]

If you are sure it is not the oil passages in the bar that are plugged then you will need to further inspect the oiler.

In order to rule out the bar just remove the bar and chain and inspect the flow with the sprocket cover removed.

If it has very few hours like you state the oiler line being plugged would make the most sense. In order to remove the oiler line you will need to remove the clutch drum and the clutch. If you need help removing any of them let us know. Plus while your in there you can clean the oiler area.

I should have been more specific I have checked with the bar removed
very little flow at full throttle and seems to be no debris at outlet on bar
end of line. I am assuming he got junk in the oil tank when refilling.
Is there any filter to check at pick up tube in oil tank and if not do I
need any special tools to remove clutch drum and clutch.
I am fairly capable with tools but have never taken apart any of my
saws past cleaning and adjustments. Thanks again for the info and the quick response.

 

[bcorradi]

Ohh ok.

You really don't need any special tools to remove the clutch and clutch drum. I have rarely seen problems at the pickup end so i would guess your problem lies between the pump and output line.

1) Needlenose pliers
2) Small flatblade screwdriver
3) Short piece of rope
4) 19mm socket and ratchet

I have to run now, but i'll describe more later if no one else has replied by then.

 

[wood4heat]

Sorry, my bad.
After I posted that I thought it was probably an oversimplified response but I'm a newbie to chainsaws so what do I know. I hope you get it figured out. ( I just like that little guy )

 

[bcorradi]

Getting access to the oil pump.

1) Remove the circlip and washer from the clutch side. Place a rag over the washer while removing it to ensure it doesn't fly across your shop.
2) Pull off the clutch drum and bearing.
3) Now remove the sparkplug and manually turn the saw over till the piston is near Top Dead Center.
4) Insert a piece of rope down the sparkplug hole to stop the piston from going to the down stroke.
5) Now use your 19 mm socket and ratchet and place it on the clutch nut and tighten it (Left hand threads so you will be tightening it not loosening it) till the clutch comes off.

Now you will have access to the oil pump.

To remove the oil output hose.
1) Remove the innerguide plate. Not sure if yours is the pressed on type or the screw on type. (the innerguide plate is the brassish looking plate that goes over your bar studs)
2) Gently disconnect the hose from the pump.
3) Slide the hose out through the output hole thats behind the innerguide plate. (You may need to use your needle nose pliers to gently grab the end of the hose and pull it through)

If you still do not find your problem then report back and we'll show you how to get the oiler worm gear and rod off.

One other note you will need to make sure your oiler worm rod gets positioned in the slot in the clutch drum when you are putting it back together.

 

[hogjaws]

Arboristsite ROCKS!!!

Thanks B I cant thank you and all the
other posters here enough for this and other
info I have recv'd from this site.
I cant get into the 260 until this weekend
I'll let you know how it goes.
Hope I can return the help to others
sometime.
Arboristsite just flatout ROCKS!!!

 

[hogjaws]

Thanks for the help Bcorradi

Thought I would try one last time b4 teardown to
loosen up whatever was clogging the oil line.
What da ya know it worked, I let her rip wot for 30-40 sec
and all the sudden a big ol wad of sawdust comes burpin
out the line. The guy I bought this from must have pushed
the junk way up in the outlet line and jammed it because I
thought I had cleared that end out. Anyway Bcorradi thanks
again for the help with teardown info. The 260 is all cleaned
up and runnin great. From all the info I read on muffler mods
I will try that next after I cut some and see what this thing
will do in the stock configuration.

 

[bcorradi]

Np....Have fun with your 260's.