MS261 with 20" bar - why is that not recommended?

[StihlPotlicker]

Hey guys. Bought an MS261 two years ago with a 20" bar and have loved it. I heat my home with a wood stove, so the main job of this saw is bucking large diameter logs, around 20-25" usually. Usually these are Red Oak but also sometimes Ash and Maples.

I'm now reading online that many guys do not recommend a 20" bar for bucking hardwood with a 261. I'm confused why? I see people say the saw can't keep up but I haven't noticed any issues.

I rather not go down to the 18" as the 20" can reach through on the majority of my logs. I upgraded to the 261 from an MS250 that only had an 18" bar, and if I remember correctly the 18" bar on that actually measured closer to 16". With the 250, I was still satisfied with the power but the length really sucked as it took me twice as long to buck logs (cutting one side and then another).

Am I doing damage to my saw running a 20" bar and bucking hardwood like this? Is there something I should be listening for or keeping an eye out for? Saw has never stalled and yes the RPMs go down when fully sinking into a log but not anymore than any saw would I feel like.

Thanks guys

keep chain sharp, AND let the saw do the work. just for fun and giggles I put a 24" b/c on my 260 and noodled with it and was forcing it more than the saw doing the work. not recommended but it was fine., so you will be fine with a 20" b/c. i run those on my 261s and I converted them over to 3/8 sprocket and .05g chain too

 

[Marley5]

2-3 cords per year,
You'll get decades of use from your 261.

We have several Stihl dealers around here and there #1 selling firewood saw is the MS 250 with 18" bar so I doubt the 261 minds wearing a 20.

 

[Gagliano7]

My 261 cm came with a 20 inch bar from the stihl dealer. All I cut is hardwood. Never had a problem with the 20 inch bar. I like having the reach.

 

[eglaude]

I’ve done A LOT of bar and chain combinations on my 261, and honestly the 18” bar running a .325 full chisel is a sweet spot for the species of wood that I cut in South Texas. If anyone can actually tell the difference with a 20”, you are pretty damn good, but practically speaking the reason you have the 261 to begin with is to keep it light and have plenty of power when you need it. If y’all want to bury the bar deep in a solid oak, then use the right size saw for the job. When I get over a 25” bar diameter at the stump, out comes my 461 beast with a 28” or 32” bar and let the chips fly. It will give you a workout I won’t kid you there, and I go back to it’s little brother as soon as I can.

 

[RCamo]

I have a 20" on my 261 and haven't had any problems cutting southern hardwoods. If I have to cut the really big stuff I pull out the MS660 and after cutting with it I'm glad to go back to the 261! I mix Red Armor at 40:1 as recommended by @huskihl and like I said no problems at all.

 

[stihltech]

So it is advertised with a 20 inch bar and chain. Stihl says it is OK.
The proof is in the maintenance. But that goes for ANY saw ( or other piece of equipment).
Sharp and maintained is the answer, Period.

Now can we go back to oil, mix ratio, saw brand, etc?

 

[eglaude]

I have a 20" on my 261 and haven't had any problems cutting southern hardwoods. If I have to cut the really big stuff I pull out the MS660 and after cutting with it I'm glad to go back to the 261! I mix Red Armor at 40:1 as recommended by @huskihl and like I said no problems at all.

You’re right, the 261 has no problem with a 20”, BUT you do have to make a choice on the setups you run when you get where you are going. Since I have a CAD, I have multiple saw cc classes depending on what the job size is. Sometimes the 261 can do it all but I don’t usually swap bar and chain setup unless I have to. So for me, when dogs deep in a large
buck with my 261, I’m WOT for extended times and if your not thinking about what you’re running you’ll end up with a nice top-end, and maybe more, repair job on your hands,

While on the topic of setups, you can, and likely already do, end up having a bunch of bars lengths, chain sizes, cutter types along with the rims for each that will just be hard to manage unless you want your shop to look like Buckin’s. I speak from experience and I too like BBR’s saw shop but it’s not easy in the wallet.

I’ve seen tree service “wannabes” show up and tackle storm work tree jobs with the one and only saw they own from a big box store and just bear down until something gives up, and that is usually the saw because the guy on the trigger doesn’t have a clue.

This could end up as another oil war, but I only run MOTUL 800 2T in my big saws, and usually Saber in the smaller stuff, including my supporting 2-stroke equipment. Regardless, everything gets 40:1. If your have to run the Stihl Ultra, make sure your pour. is heavy and not just use that little bottle and go.

 

[farmer steve]

Lots of pros and cons on bar length so far. Hey it's the internet! I run my 261 with the 18"bar,.325 chain and love it. If I need bigger I just grab the 462. We just logged 50 big oaks so I have lots of tops to cut. Me and the saws are going to get a workout.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Lots of pros and cons on bar length so far. Hey it's the internet! I run my 261 with the 18"bar,.325 chain and love it. If I need bigger I just grab the 462. We just logged 50 big oaks so I have lots of tops to cut. Me and the saws are going to get a workout.

Sounds like you need to host a gtg! Where exactly are you in PA? I’m in southern MD.

 

[farmer steve]

Sounds like you need to host a gtg! Where exactly are you in PA? I’m in southern MD.

Just north of Hanover.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Just north of Hanover.

A tad over 2 hours from me. Let me know if you’d like some help.