My current truck is a 2000 psd. The cross members for the bed have rusted completely through. If I were driving at elevation, a turbo would be mandatory. On the interstate, it pulls an 8500 lb travel trailer better than my '93 did, but the IDI did better at pulling a 10k load up out of the creek bottom. I'll need to replace the PSD soon. No idea what I'm going to do then. With the current options, I'm thinking of piecing together a Fummins of some kind. I've never owned a 5.9, but I've always believed it was the best truck motor on the road. When the industry tanked in '08 and Chrysler was in bankruptcy, Ford should have gone after a contract with Cummins. If nothing else, they should have tried to get a 4bt for the F150 so they would have it available for the new Ranger.
Ms400 vs Ms461 vs Ms462 vs 500i?
- Thread starter Courage
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My lawd, 6 cords a year and considering a $1700 saw ?
I do like that mindset though
I cut 8 cords for myself and another 8 cords for 2 elderly people from church and I don't know how much in the Carolina's with clamshells
I do like that mindset though
I cut 8 cords for myself and another 8 cords for 2 elderly people from church and I don't know how much in the Carolina's with clamshells
I don't have a $1700 saw, but I do have 6 saws that are probably worth a combined total of around $1,700 and I only cut about 4 cords most years. I used to think that CAD was a bunch of nonsense until I got infected. Now I'm just glad I was able to stop at 6 (or maybe eventually 8)My lawd, 6 cords a year and considering a $1700 saw ?
I do like that mindset though
I cut 8 cords for myself and another 8 cords for 2 elderly people from church and I don't know how much in the Carolina's with clamshells
3 in the truck and 4 in the garage.I don't have a $1700 saw, but I do have 6 saws that are probably worth a combined total of around $1,700 and I only cut about 4 cords most years. I used to think that CAD was a bunch of nonsense until I got infected. Now I'm just glad I was able to stop at 6 (or maybe eventually 8)
CAD don't want no part of this !
Just need to get the right truck, since the early 2000's you could opt in a cummins in an f-450 or larger chassis truck. Didn't matter if it was a pickup version or chassis cab configuration.
although I've done quite a few cummins swaps in the past, it's getting quite difficult to do them on any semi modern truck platform. Basically need same year or newer emissions on the engine being swapped for any state or federal inspections requirements. Only found that out after swapping a 12v in place of a 24v when the block cracked. Truck wouldn't pass inspection anymore. Ended up swapping front cover assembly and bolting the 24v head and fuel system on the 12v block. Quite the nightmare. Also, if your state is super communist, it would need an enhanced inspection since swapping engines not available from the oe is considered a major modification since 2007. Best sticking with older "pre" emissions vehicles for swaps anymore.
That's an advantage of living in Indiana. So long as it's not a commercial vehicle, I can do what ever I want with it. We don't have any state emissions inspections for passenger vehicles which includes 3/4 and one ton trucks. Whether or not I'm ever able to sell the vehicle in the future is a different question, but I'm not in the habit of selling vehicles that are still roadworthy. The main thing I haven't decided is whether or not I want to go back to a manual transmission or not. In genera, I prefer a manual transmission in a truck, but I also appreciate the finesse that an automatic provides when backing a trailer into a tight spot. Then there's the whole question of what parts will fit together for a specific model year and cab configuration.
well, you're lucky in that regard. We don't have tail pipe or plug in testing yet, supposedly it's in the works for anything 07 and newer. State inspection dictates emissions systems must be intact and functional. Most turn a blind eye, but it's gotten quite a few companies in big trouble recently.
My next swap is a 94 f-350 crew cab. Most likely going automatic this time. Manual transmissions don't hold up well even to moderate hp mods behind cummins. Most autos can be built to hold the power for less then the custom parts I have in my nv4500. Either going to use a 5r110 or 6r80. I'd love the 10r140, but it needs too many inputs that can't be done without an engine ecu hooked to the tcm.
I have no desire to do any hp mods. If it can pull a 10k trailer 80mph down the interstate on relatively flat ground, that's good enough for me. I appreciate what a person gan get out of a 5.9, but my primary interest in it is for its durability and efficiency.
Been towing all sorts of trailers my whole life and couldn't resist the temptation to mod every truck I owned..... until I got smart
Lift kits, 35" tires, pedal commander, performance chips, headers, you name it, I likely tried it.
I understand the appeal, I like to blow money but for towing heavy loads your best bet is to stay stock and use tow-mode.
Don't ask me how many transmissions I've grenaded over the years
You already have received some great advice on the newer saws, and I like the M-Tronic (have 2 ported 462s and a ported 261). Not worrying about the tune or having to clean the air filter after every use is (IMO) great! (Note: 400s had not come out yet when I purchased the 462s, otherwise I would likely have one of each).
The 500 is a great saw, but the fuel injection eats fuel, and it does not have the clean air filter technology that the 400 and 462 have.
That said, a good porter (like Doc Al) can make that 036 run as strong as a 462 or 461. Just another option to consider. A ported 036/360 is a great power to weight option.
I would also recommend the Stihl Light bars, in 28" length your back will thank you (they are not cheap, but often if purchased with the saw it is not as bad). I like 20 or 24" bars on my 462s, if I ran a 28" I would put skip or semi skip chain on it. I like to be able to lean on them a bit.
Another option (if you can find the parts) I have a 440/460 Hybrid ported by Doc Al that will pull 28" full comp like nothing! It is a VG power to weight combo.
The 500 is a great saw, but the fuel injection eats fuel, and it does not have the clean air filter technology that the 400 and 462 have.
That said, a good porter (like Doc Al) can make that 036 run as strong as a 462 or 461. Just another option to consider. A ported 036/360 is a great power to weight option.
I would also recommend the Stihl Light bars, in 28" length your back will thank you (they are not cheap, but often if purchased with the saw it is not as bad). I like 20 or 24" bars on my 462s, if I ran a 28" I would put skip or semi skip chain on it. I like to be able to lean on them a bit.
Another option (if you can find the parts) I have a 440/460 Hybrid ported by Doc Al that will pull 28" full comp like nothing! It is a VG power to weight combo.
I used to go to church with a guy like that. He and his dad have an excavation company. I don't stay up to date on transmissions, but I never liked the E4OD that Ford used to use which was a major reason my '93 had a ZF5. Before buying my current truck, I asked him about the 4R100. His response was that he'd never been able to blow one up despite trying to drag race while towing 15k so I knew I'd be fine with it. I've never had enough disposable income to pour any of it into my vehicles, but I'm not beyond basic mods to make something a more useful tool. I put a 6 position chip in my 7.3 PSD and even on the most conservative settings it made a HUGE difference in how well it drove and towed. Having the ability to reach down and grab an extra 50 hp in the middle of passing someone going uphill who decided to be a jerk was also nice. Unfortunately, I have an occasional moisture leak around my windshield, and that leak finds its way down to the PCM which caused problems with the chip so I had to take it out.
I currently have 17 running saws. A few are new but most were "recovered from dead" or are Asian project saws (Stihl 440 or 660 clones). I mostly just use the 90+ cc saws for milling or noodling large hardwood rounds.
One of my ported Asian clones dynoed at 8.6 Hp. I used to fix saws for some local tree guys and a pro firewood guys but have mostly given up doing it. It was a learning experience, and the cheap Asian parts made it feasible to bring some broken down saws back to life. Mostly played with 440s, 460s, 461s and 660s.
One of my ported Asian clones dynoed at 8.6 Hp. I used to fix saws for some local tree guys and a pro firewood guys but have mostly given up doing it. It was a learning experience, and the cheap Asian parts made it feasible to bring some broken down saws back to life. Mostly played with 440s, 460s, 461s and 660s.
I've owned numerous m-tronic saws and all have run great. I see zero reason to avoid them.
I've owned and run 462 and 500i. I still own the 500, I sold the 462 to a buddy. Both were great saws, I would have no issues owning another 462 if I find a good price.
I've not owned, but I have run a 400. Personally I like the 462 better, but the 400 is fine too. I don't think you can go wrong, but if you plan on running a 28, I would suggest the 462. Mine in stock form ran a 28 in hardwood without any issue.
I've owned and run 462 and 500i. I still own the 500, I sold the 462 to a buddy. Both were great saws, I would have no issues owning another 462 if I find a good price.
I've not owned, but I have run a 400. Personally I like the 462 better, but the 400 is fine too. I don't think you can go wrong, but if you plan on running a 28, I would suggest the 462. Mine in stock form ran a 28 in hardwood without any issue.
