Ms661 vs ms880 on 36”mill

[regulate34]

With unlimited wood, and a desire to upgrade in order to mill more, have you considered investing in a small bandsaw set up? Yes more expensive (usually $2000+), but much more efficient than a chainsaw in just about every way. Outside of small scale lumber, going big with a saw is usually only needed for slabbing big wood for table-tops, etc. but not really the best way to go for lumber production.

From a production stand point. Yes a band saw mill 100%

But I like chainsaw milling.

I actually have access to a 3blade saw mill.

It’s a old beast. Fun to run.

 

[IyaMan]

At the end of the day, if you like it, thats all that matters!

I run a 2188 (90cc) on a 28" Alaskan and it blasts through softwood like a dream. I imagine an 880 or 3120 would be like a hot knife in butter, but could be overkill in pine thats less than 25". And you'd use a lot of gas. (though the oil market is in middle of a full on crash as I write this...)

 

[ML12]

If you're in BC and around the logging industry, you should be able to find a 090 cheap enough.... Yes they don't rev like a modern saw, but they also don't care how much bar gets hung off the front of them either. Plus they're dead simple and robust as anything.

Otherwise, i'd lean toward the Husky 3120, they're just simple well constructed saws. The fixed high side shouldn't be a problem while milling, I would bet that they tend to run rich, if not just get mastermind to drill out the carb and add the high speed circuit.

 

[rarefish383]

Like usual, I’m late to the show. I was going to buy a 3120 but my dealer never gave me a quote and said it would be at least two weeks to get one ordered. So, I called my Stihl dealer. He had 880’s on the shelf. I walked in with cash in hand. While I was waiting for him to finish with another customer, I talked myself into saving a big chunk of my Money, and bought a 660. No problems with it, but if I were to do it over, I’d get the 880.

Or buy a band mill.

 

[CR888]

I'd buy a 3120....they can be bought new at a fraction of the MS880 list price. Displacement is king for milling, the 3120 is a lot of saw for the $$.

 

[Husky Man]

I'd buy a 3120....they can be bought new at a fraction of the MS880 list price. Displacement is king for milling, the 3120 is a lot of saw for the $$.

Yep, Dave "thechainsawguy" is selling NIB, PHO 3120XP's for $1,399.00 Shipped, last I looked, he has an ad in the AS For Sale/Trade forum.

I bought my 3120XP from Dave, as have several other members, plus he also sells through ebay(same Price, But $89 shipping) and last I saw his ebay listing, he had sold almost 100, there and IIRC about 3100 transactions/100% positive feedback. Dave is a Reputable seller, that I would buy from again without any hesitation

NO, I Don't get any "Kickback" from Dave , just a Happy Customer of His, letting other members know of my experience with him


Doug

 

[andy]

Yep, Dave "thechainsawguy" is selling NIB, PHO 3120XP's for $1,399.00 Shipped, last I looked, he has an ad in the AS For Sale/Trade forum.

I bought my 3120XP from Dave, as have several other members, plus he also sells through ebay(same Price, But $89 shipping) and last I saw his ebay listing, he had sold almost 100, there and IIRC about 3100 transactions/100% positive feedback. Dave is a Reputable seller, that I would buy from again without any hesitation

NO, I Don't get any "Kickback" from Dave , just a Happy Customer of His, letting other members know of my experience with him


Doug

Dave is great.... definitely an asset to all of us looking for new saws.

Did you see He added 880’s to his listings?
$1700 shipped is as low as you’ll find.
Now Stihl guys can stay Stihl for milling with 120cc’s without flipping down 20+ Benjies!
(Although by the time you add a large mount bar ..... !! )

 

[regulate34]

I have been thinking on this for a bit.

Part of me wasnts the 880 just to say I got the biggest. No 3cc idis. I know it’s a silly reason and the 3120 would do what I want with ease. But it’s a reason nonetheless.

I got a little savings going for this buy. If I keep working threw this virus stuff. I should have enough for the saw and a new Granburg double ended bar and mill set up.

For now. I’ll stock pile log for milling.

 

[Husky Man]

Regulate, how close to the capacity of a 36" Mill do you expect to be milling?

Blue42 has a similar thread running, and yesterday, I Maxed out my 36" Granberg CSM, and measured it's Capacity, 36" is the the length of the mill's Rails, NOT it's capacity, with the End Brackets set to the very ends of rails, the mill's capacity was 33.5" inside the faces of the bar Clamps

Also, using a 36" B&C will likely leave you a bit short of the mills capacity, I measured my "36 inch" Bars on my 3120XP, 395XP and 390XP saws, both my "36 inch" bars, an Oregon Power Match, and a Husvarna Branded bar, that I Believe is produced by Oregon, measured 34.5" from Saw Face to Bar Tip, when mounted, NOT counting the Dawgs, leaving the Dawgs on will cost you some more bar length.

Also measuring one of my bars, I wouldn't clamp the nose end bar, any closer than 2.5" from the end, you don't want to squish your nose sprocket.

To get the most out of a "36 Inch" mill, you really need a 42" Bar

If you are expecting to mill very much 30" or larger, you should consider a 48" mill.

I haven't measured the max capacity of my 48" mill with my 44" bar in it, but the difference in weight isn't that much compared to the 36" mill, with the "36 Inch" bars mounted, the weight and price difference between, 36" and 48" set ups,isn't that Great, if you are going to be milling 30"+ logs, it is worth considering a 48" set up. If a 30"+ log is going to be a rare occurrence, then a 36" set up should serve you well

With Granberg, and probably most other, Alaskan Mills, figure the Max Capacity of the Mill as 2.5" LESS than the mills "Listed" size
Also to get the most out any mill expect to get a Bar that is 6" or so longer than the Mills "Listed" size


Doug

 

[regulate34]

Regulate, how close to the capacity of a 36" Mill do you expect to be milling?

Blue42 has a similar thread running, and yesterday, I Maxed out my 36" Granberg CSM, and measured it's Capacity, 36" is the the length of the mill's Rails, NOT it's capacity, with the End Brackets set to the very ends of rails, the mill's capacity was 33.5" inside the faces of the bar Clamps

Also, using a 36" B&C will likely leave you a bit short of the mills capacity, I measured my "36 inch" Bars on my 3120XP, 395XP and 390XP saws, both my "36 inch" bars, an Oregon Power Match, and a Husvarna Branded bar, that I Believe is produced by Oregon, measured 34.5" from Saw Face to Bar Tip, when mounted, NOT counting the Dawgs, leaving the Dawgs on will cost you some more bar length.

Also measuring one of my bars, I wouldn't clamp the nose end bar, any closer than 2.5" from the end, you don't want to squish your nose sprocket.

To get the most out of a "36 Inch" mill, you really need a 42" Bar

If you are expecting to mill very much 30" or larger, you should consider a 48" mill.

I haven't measured the max capacity of my 48" mill with my 44" bar in it, but the difference in weight isn't that much compared to the 36" mill, with the "36 Inch" bars mounted, the weight and price difference between, 36" and 48" set ups,isn't that Great, if you are going to be milling 30"+ logs, it is worth considering a 48" set up. If a 30"+ log is going to be a rare occurrence, then a 36" set up should serve you well

With Granberg, and probably most other, Alaskan Mills, figure the Max Capacity of the Mill as 2.5" LESS than the mills "Listed" size
Also to get the most out any mill expect to get a Bar that is 6" or so longer than the Mills "Listed" size


Doug

I would say most logs are sub 30”.

I know you need a longer bar to maximize mill cut width.

The set up I have now for my 460 on a 25” ES bar only gives me 18” of cutting width.

But my plan is it go with the Granburg 36” double ended bar and mill combo.

I mill softwood. So I can run the chain on the aggressive side to gain speed. Especially with a 120cc set up.

I do this with my 460 when milling 12” and under.


Also with regard of mill size. I like extra room to have the mill cutting on a angle.
I find it cuts down on the fine dust and gives me more speed in the cut.

I think over a 36” set up with a 880/3120 with cut down on portablity. As I do go and mill some trees where they fall. Because we can’t access to move them.

 

[Husky Man]

I would say most logs are sub 30”.

I know you need a longer bar to maximize mill cut width.

The set up I have now for my 460 on a 25” ES bar only gives me 18” of cutting width.

But my plan is it go with the Granburg 36” double ended bar and mill combo.

I mill softwood. So I can run the chain on the aggressive side to gain speed. Especially with a 120cc set up.

I do this with my 460 when milling 12” and under.


Also with regard of mill size. I like extra room to have the mill cutting on a angle.
I find it cuts down on the fine dust and gives me more speed in the cut.

I think over a 36” set up with a 880/3120 with cut down on portablity. As I do go and mill some trees where they fall. Because we can’t access to move them.

If an 880/3120XP set up over 36" would cut down on Portability, I Have to Ask, WHY are you considering a Double Ended Bar???

I also have to ask, do you understand what a double ended bar IS, and what it's PURPOSE IS???

If a single 880/3120 is too much, why on Gods Green Earth would you want TWO Powerheads of ANY size?????, especially on mostly sub 30" wood???

Inquiring Minds want to know


Doug

 

[regulate34]

If an 880/3120XP set up over 36" would cut down on Portability, I Have to Ask, WHY are you considering a Double Ended Bar???

I also have to ask, do you understand what a double ended bar IS, and what it's PURPOSE IS???

If a single 880/3120 is too much, why on Gods Green Earth would you want TWO Powerheads of ANY size?????, especially on mostly sub 30" wood???

Inquiring Minds want to know


Doug

You should have a look at the mill kit they have. It’s a double ended bar with a assist handle.

Obviously I not thinking of running 2 power heads on a 36”.

I like the auxiliary oiler and I don’t need to buy a bar.

No to mention the 36” mill with the DE bar runs 153 drivers long. Should get more board feet between sharpenings over a 114 driver link. 36” bar.

 

[Husky Man]

You should have a look at the mill kit they have. It’s a double ended bar with a assist handle.

Obviously I not thinking of running 2 power heads on a 36”.

I like the auxiliary oiler and I don’t need to buy a bar.

No to mention the 36” mill with the DE bar runs 153 drivers long. Should get more board feet between sharpenings over a 114 driver link. 36” bar.

When I thought about it, I wondered if the helper handle was what you were after, but on a 36" bar, I just don't see the need for it.

An Aux Oiler is Nice, but again, on a 36", it shouldn't be needed with either a 661 or 880.

You didn't want a 48" set up, because it would reduce portability, but then add a Helper handle and an Aux Oiler, you lost me there, a few more cutters aren't going to extend your cutting that much IMO, especially in the sub 30" softwood you expect to cut, but it's your set up, so Have FUN and Stay SAFE


Doug

 

[regulate34]

When I thought about it, I wondered if the helper handle was what you were after, but on a 36" bar, I just don't see the need for it.

An Aux Oiler is Nice, but again, on a 36", it shouldn't be needed with either a 661 or 880.

You didn't want a 48" set up, because it would reduce portability, but then add a Helper handle and an Aux Oiler, you lost me there, a few more cutters aren't going to extend your cutting that much IMO, especially in the sub 30" softwood you expect to cut, but it's your set up, so Have FUN and Stay SAFE


Doug

Aux oil and helper handle add sweet FA to the mill IMO.

More oil will is never a bad thing.

The helper handle is nice when entering and finishing a slab.

48” adds 1ft plus weight.

Im not sure what you classify as portable. But I’ve packed my mill 2km on my back to build bike bridges and foot bridges for work.

Got to draw the line somewhere.
I draw it at 36” with a helper handle and aux Oiler.

My original question was about the power head comparison on a 36” mill. Not try to convince me to buy a 48” mill.

 

[Husky Man]

Aux oil and helper handle add sweet FA to the mill IMO.

More oil will is never a bad thing.

The helper handle is nice when entering and finishing a slab.

48” adds 1ft plus weight.

Im not sure what you classify as portable. But I’ve packed my mill 2km on my back to build bike bridges and foot bridges for work.

Got to draw the line somewhere.
I draw it at 36” with a helper handle and aux Oiler.

My original question was about the power head comparison on a 36” mill. Not try to convince me to buy a 48” mill.

From Granberg’s website:

Also includes 50” hardened steel bar (G743-3) with .063 gauge, one loop of .404 .063 chain at 138 links (G730-3


“48” adds a foot and weight “

so a 50” Bar, helper handle and Aux Oiler increases “Portability”????

Your Mill, Your Money, Your Choices

I don’t understand your Logic, but I don’t have to

Have Fun, Stay SAFE

Doug

 

[regulate34]

Have a good one bud. Wash your hands.