My BR600's tale of woe and intrigue...

[RunIt]

One year update on new BR600 (2nd machine)

I very much appreciate the advice and help given on this thread and would like to give back in a small way by a few thoughts on my year old (2nd) BR600 Magnum. This unit is not used commercially but sweeps a fair amount of cement in a rural setting, maintains some (cough) 'grass'/trails and blows a decent amount of snow in southern Michigan (also maintains my heat pump coils).
I have chosen to do three things different with this machine that may or may not be its undoing in the long run but have kept up its original power for now. I don't adjust the cold weather port, run premium gas only (Stihl oil) and don't plan on making the required valve adjustment until it blows up like the last one (I lost power significantly that was never regained after this was done on the last unit). Filters are changed regularly.

My 'gauge' of power on this unit seems to be the tube's ability to be pushed up in the air when the handle is let go of. I had a hard time qualifying any loss of power when my other unit 'worked' (and was adjusted umpteen times by qualified technicians to the 'acceptable' rpm) just before it died. When you blow snow with this unit you know exactly what it is possible of doing and anything less is immediately noticeable.

I would buy this unit again if it died tomorrow yet I am surprised that no other designs have taken its place (cfm to weight king?) and wonder if the new Ryobi design (tube running below the engine for efficiency) or any other will pop up when the time comes.
Is there anybody else out there running their BRs in this same manner?

Thanks again for helping me choose the Stihl once again over other capable models that may even have the extra power that I'm always seeking (suggestions welcome).

 

[RunIt]

oh...and one more thing...

...my Magnum also does one job better than any other that I can think of:

Blowing wet, dry or frozen dog doo-doo long distances to keep same out of our house and give our pitiful 'yard' a chance (priceless):kilt:

 

[Saw Dr.]

don't plan on making the required valve adjustment until it blows up like the last one (I lost power significantly that was never regained after this was done on the last unit) ...... (suggestions welcome).

Not adjusting the valves is just foolish. We have seen a couple of HIGH hour 4282 machines that have had valves so loose that the pushrods eventually fell out. Likely never to happen on a homeowner unit, but still. The valve adjust is an insanely simple procedure (for those who know how to do it,) and I check them on pretty much every 4 mix unit that comes in just as a good shop practice. It really only takes a few minutes. I can adjust the valves on TWO BR-600's while the other shop mechanic goes and takes one smoke break. If your last 600 lost power after the valve adjust, it was not done correctly. Should the valves be adjusted when the engine is on valve overlap (the wrong TDC, 360 degrees out) it WILL still run. (DO NOT ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS) It will just have reduced power output. Changing the carb, adjusting it to the moon, and subsequently replacing the ignition module before pressure and vac testing it will not rectify this. Re adjusting the valves properly will fix it, and then the technician gets to explain it to the boss. The upside is that the shop now has a known-good test carb and ignition for 4180 machines......

The rumors of the big strato blower did not play out. The BR-430 is out, and a very nice machine but not in danger of dethroning the big redmax or shinny. 4Mix is not dead, and I suspect they will continue it in the blowers on into the future. We do maintenance for several operators and homeowners with 600's. I suspect we are responsible for over 200 of those things including the 60-75 we sold last year alone. So far, we have seen two failures. One was straight gassed on tank #2. The other came in without an air filter. Piston was sanded and eventually broke at the skirt. It actually ran until a piston fragment jammed in the cam geartrain and it would not turn over.

As the OP mentioned, Stihl stood up to the plate with the credit for the shortblock. Most dealers can find the part# for the shortblock, and it is a very effective way to get a machine back up and running quickly for reasonable coin. The retail price in on the entire engine assembled is lower than the price of an OEM top end for most pro saws, and it can be changed in under an hour. I wonder what became of the OP's machine. Likely, it got a new heart and is out blowing leaves again.

 

[RunIt]

Not adjusting the valves is just foolish...If your last 600 lost power after the valve adjust, it was not done correctly. Should the valves be adjusted when the engine is on valve overlap (the wrong TDC, 360 degrees out) it WILL still run. (DO NOT ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS) It will just have reduced power output. Changing the carb, adjusting it to the moon, and subsequently replacing the ignition module before pressure and vac testing it will not rectify this. Re adjusting the valves properly will fix it, and then the technician gets to explain it to the boss...

Thanks for the advice. I took it to two reputable shops and the rpm was "always within specs." yet never close to what I knew it could do (before the suggested adjustment) or what I needed when blowing snow.The best time to move snow is always the nastiest in terms of cold and wind and less than full power just means more time outside. Since doing it myself is even scarier than paying somebody to screw it up slightly less I guess I'll have to take my chances vs insisting over and over again that "it's still not right" to those whose work you otherwise respect (how many mechanics own brand new vs rebuilt 'running fine now' orphaned BR600s in the first place).

"...rumors of the big strato blower did not play out. The BR-430 is out, and a very nice machine but not in danger of dethroning the big redmax or shinny. 4Mix is not dead, and I suspect they will continue it in the blowers on into the future..."

If there is a more comfortable machine with the same or better specs and as light or lighter I'd like to know about it. I saw a much smaller Ryobi (Model BP-42; only 510 cfm) coming out with a new tube design in the latest Popular Science but again I sling that 600 around pretty easily and would have to be convinced that a RedMax or Shindawa at least blew more snow when conditions become warmer (to me, the true test of any blower).

Thanks again for the experienced advice right out of the shop. I normally don't like to treat my favorite tool like this but obviously (see also my decision to not mess with the cold weather port) I'm addicted to how this thing runs right out of the box and am not happy with it otherwise.

 

[RunIt]

Caveat:

...by the way, if you are simply blowing leaves with this unit you will never know the difference should an 'adjustment' leave you with the same feeling I did with my last unit (full power not forcing your hand to keep the wand down with a new tip). Any blower will move powder snow just fine at zero degrees and the wind blowing 20 mph or better.
As the day progresses and the snow sets up even an incremental power increase makes all the difference.

 

[angelo c]

Not adjusting the valves is just foolish. We have seen a couple of HIGH hour 4282 machines that have had valves so loose that the pushrods eventually fell out. Likely never to happen on a homeowner unit, but still. The valve adjust is an insanely simple procedure (for those who know how to do it,) and I check them on pretty much every 4 mix unit that comes in just as a good shop practice. It really only takes a few minutes. I can adjust the valves on TWO BR-600's while the other shop mechanic goes and takes one smoke break. If your last 600 lost power after the valve adjust, it was not done correctly. Should the valves be adjusted when the engine is on valve overlap (the wrong TDC, 360 degrees out) it WILL still run. (DO NOT ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS) It will just have reduced power output. Changing the carb, adjusting it to the moon, and subsequently replacing the ignition module before pressure and vac testing it will not rectify this. Re adjusting the valves properly will fix it, and then the technician gets to explain it to the boss. The upside is that the shop now has a known-good test carb and ignition for 4180 machines......

The rumors of the big strato blower did not play out. The BR-430 is out, and a very nice machine but not in danger of dethroning the big redmax or shinny. 4Mix is not dead, and I suspect they will continue it in the blowers on into the future. We do maintenance for several operators and homeowners with 600's. I suspect we are responsible for over 200 of those things including the 60-75 we sold last year alone. So far, we have seen two failures. One was straight gassed on tank #2. The other came in without an air filter. Piston was sanded and eventually broke at the skirt. It actually ran until a piston fragment jammed in the cam geartrain and it would not turn over.

As the OP mentioned, Stihl stood up to the plate with the credit for the shortblock. Most dealers can find the part# for the shortblock, and it is a very effective way to get a machine back up and running quickly for reasonable coin. The retail price in on the entire engine assembled is lower than the price of an OEM top end for most pro saws, and it can be changed in under an hour. I wonder what became of the OP's machine. Likely, it got a new heart and is out blowing leaves again.

Hey Tim,
How about sharing some tips on the valve adjustment. Is there s good tech sheet ori is it something you picked up along the way?

PS i love my 600. If i have any real jobs to do withna blower its my first choice. If im just blowing the porch off ill grab the redmax. He vibration and noise levels do nt compare.

 

[angelo c]

Hey Tim,
How about sharing some tips on the valve adjustment. Is there a good tech sheet or is it something you picked up along the way?

PS i love my 600. If i have any real jobs to do with a blower its my first choice. If im just blowing the porch off ill grab the redmax. THe vibration and noise levels do not compare.

Typing with thumbs on phones is dangerous while driving.