My cousins Stihl 029 Question

[tomdcoker]

If he's gonna rebuild it he should get the 390 kit

I agree. I upgraded a MS310 to a MS390 a couple weeks ago for a customer and did a muffler modification on it. The cost of a new motor (everthing need except the bottom pan) was $156.00 plus tax for either motor.
Look at the exhaust on the muffler and the exhaust port on the cylinder and you will know that it needs to be opened up. Tom

 

[tomdcoker]

I am not sure if he put it on or not but guessing he did. If it happened to start up he would have just left it at that,...He is VERY HARD ON EQUIPTMENT. His motto is "run her" I want to volenteer to take a look at it but I dont know anything about stihl muffler bolts like are they prone to breaking off on the head?
I am sure the Muff has never been off I bet the fuel line filter and plug are the orig prolly 20 years old?

Yes, that series saw has a tendecy for the bolts to break, but they fit in a slot so replacing them is a matter of $2.00 cost. Tom

 

[Jeff Lary]

Thanks for all the replys, I will try to convince him of the up grade. Why flywheel / Clutch before cylinder? Oh I will do what you say no worries there but just wondering ? How do you muff mod the stihl 29 muffler (notice I said muffler not muff, you guys are worse than me! ) is it like my partners a several peice unit and you just remove the baffel ?. What is the cost diffrence between a 29 top and the up sized top ? ( cannot remember what you said 39cc? maybe ) thanks, gotta go pull someones muff . Jeff

 

[Fish]

I am wondering a bit about a Stihl dealer that has problems taking a muffler off of that series
of saw........

 

[origionalrebel]

Ok time to chime in -- on taking the muffler nuts off the front -- spray them with WD40 or with another better penetrating oil -- let them sit, then spray them again for good measure (especially if they are well rusted).

Taking them off then should be no big deal. (If you do break one as has been mentioned they are not expensive). The "T" bolts fit into a slot in the cylinder which is behind the muffler (don't lose the conical washers on the muffler front -- you will need them when reassembling the saw). Then slide the muffler off (remove the front plate and spark arrestor screen and lay them aside first). The "T bolts" do not thread into the cylinder like pro saw fasteners, you angle them into the U slots and position them for the muffler to mount when assembling the saw.

At this point you should be looking at the gasket on the front of the cylinder- slide the muffler gasket it off as well. If the piston is not at the top, pull gently on the pull rope -- you should see then if it is scored or not as it rises into the exhaust window. If it is down you should be able to see the intake side of the cylinder (you may have to shine a flash light in now, depending on how well lit your shop is).

If you need to rebuild it because of scoring you might as well do several other things in the process.
(1). Plan on replacing the fuel line and impulse line (while you have it apart). It will amount to maybe $20.00 but you might as well while you have it apart and its "cheap insurance against engine failure (my opinion). Buy the genuine Stihl fuel and impulse lines -- they are great!

(2). Buy new oil seals for the crank case (Northwoodsaw.com is a recommended source). Buy the smaller thickness seals, and purchase a liquid gasket sealer that you will need to seal the crankcase/clam shell bottom. Many people here use Yamabond (believe Northwoodsaw has it as well.). Or if you're going hog wild - buy the pricey Dirko sold at the Stihl dealership.

(3). Since you seem to be planning a top end rebuild you might as well upgrade to the 039/MS390 piston and cylinder. It is a top end swap for your saw. You will be replacing the 029 (smaller piston jug etc.), with the largest top end in this series.

(4). Since there is an ongoing debate about quality I'm not going to recommend a source for the top end in the aftermarket realm. I would say that I have also seen used genuine Stihl engines and cylinders which are a good choice recently on Ebay.

If this is a learning experience for you, ignore the nay-sayers that say "don't rebuild the 029" it's heavy and you can do a pro saw and have more. If this guy wants to give you the saw that is toasted that is even better -- you can work on it in your spare time and ask questions in this thread. Plenty of help to be had here! Then you can rebuild it, mod the muffler, retune the carb and let the previous owner feel the difference when you're done! Hey that's my stump speech for an 029 upgrade (especially after that Obama "address to the nation" sheesh! what a load of cr*p).
Happy Sawing!
Enjoy the Journey!

will the 039 top end fit an 032? my fav. ole saw is an old 032 and i know sooner or later it's gonna give up. when it does, might as well make it a hotrod

 

[Fish]

will the 039 top end fit an 032? my fav. ole saw is an old 032 and i know sooner or later it's gonna give up. when it does, might as well make it a hotrod

No, not even close.

 

[H 2 H]

Thanks for all the replys, I will try to convince him of the up grade. Why flywheel / Clutch before cylinder? Oh I will do what you say no worries there but just wondering ? How do you muff mod the stihl 29 muffler (notice I said muffler not muff, you guys are worse than me! ) is it like my partners a several peice unit and you just remove the baffel ?. What is the cost diffrence between a 29 top and the up sized top ? ( cannot remember what you said 39cc? maybe ) thanks, gotta go pull someones muff . Jeff

About 10 cc bigger

MM

With baffle

Without baffle after mod

Section of muffler before mod

Section after mod

Cover of muffler

Cover of muffler after mod

It makes it alot easier to take the clutch flywheel off before you taking the cylinder off than before

 

[origionalrebel]

No, not even close.

 

[origionalrebel]

No, not even close.

what mods can i do to an 032 when i do have to build it?

 

[Jeff Lary]

I am wondering a bit about a Stihl dealer that has problems taking a muffler off of that series
of saw........

Amen to that ??? if it's like my partner bolts I been taking them out since 1983.

 

[Jeff Lary]

About 10 cc bigger

MM

With baffle

Without baffle after mod

Section of muffler before mod

Section after mod

Cover of muffler

Cover of muffler after mod

It makes it alot easier to take the clutch flywheel off before you taking the cylinder off than before

WOW what a nice explaination of a mm thanks sooo much for the photos.If I end up w/ his saw I will def do that. Other than the fact that now you probably read sign language cause yer deaf did it wake the saw up noticeably ? ha ha nice work Jeff

 

[7sleeper]

Put in a 039 top end and don't tell him anything. Just tell him regular saw mod.... It will be a secret little monster compared to how it used to be.

7

 

[griffonks]

Check with Baileys, a sponsor, on one 390 kit.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Ok I will but I still need the ok from cous,.. then just need to do all the work for free and find free parts and free gas and free delivery and he should be good to go, ha ha ha

 

[Fish]

I am wondering a bit about a Stihl dealer that has problems taking a muffler off of that series
of saw........

This was my first question!!!!

 

[Fish]

Hell, if I ran a big shop, the parts guys at the front desk would have the tools needed and the knowledge to write up a decent shop ticket!!!

 

[Jeff Lary]

Up date to my cousins 029. Turns out it is a 029 super he brought it up today and we tore it apart my first time touchin a Stihl. The piston and cylinder are both toast the jug is scared some and the piston is just all groved up bad. He has taken them to a guy that is supposed to have a bunch of parts to see what he can find.
I will tell you this from my prospective at least man is that thing a pain to get it to the point of getting the cylinder off compared to my Partners. I am a little worried about trying to put it all back together espically the handle/ top cover/ carb mouting section. But I will try.
How do you get the clutch off is that nut left hand thread? I would guess it is. We did end up taking the flywheel off and probably should have the clutch as well? But I did not,.. just a little nervous with another persons saw ( did not want to take any more off than needed I guess) I took off enough to suit me let me tell you !! ha ha. I will let you know how we make out. Jeff

 

[71dart]

Up date to my cousins 029. Turns out it is a 029 super he brought it up today and we tore it apart my first time touchin a Stihl. The piston and cylinder are both toast the jug is scared some and the piston is just all groved up bad. He has taken them to a guy that is supposed to have a bunch of parts to see what he can find.
I will tell you this from my prospective at least man is that thing a pain to get it to the point of getting the cylinder off compared to my Partners. I am a little worried about trying to put it all back together espically the handle/ top cover/ carb mouting section. But I will try.
How do you get the clutch off is that nut left hand thread? I would guess it is. We did end up taking the flywheel off and probably should have the clutch as well? But I did not,.. just a little nervous with another persons saw ( did not want to take any more off than needed I guess) I took off enough to suit me let me tell you !! ha ha. I will let you know how we make out. Jeff

Yes the clutch is left handed. Put some rope in your spark plug hole to stop the crank from spinning. The 390 kit from Baileys is only $113...might be a good way to go. It comes already sealed up just make sure your intake boot, impulse and fuel line are good and fastened properly. There's a lot of good info on this site to get that saw apart and back together again. And, of course, learning is fun!

 

[Jeff Lary]

Thanks for the reply,
I will have to wait for the cylinder to go on before I can remove the clutch. I did not listen / forgot when earlier they told me to remove clutch and fly wheel first.
He was told that no the cylinder is not trashed that it was trasfer we were feeling? Not too sure bout that but anyway we will try to remove that as well. Where is the impluse line/ connection on the saw I dont remember seeing one? All I see on the base section is a badly leaking gas line ( told him to buy new) and the tank vent? Is it attached to the handle assembly and plugs into the bottom of the cylinder ? I would have to go out to look again but I did not see one. As far as the piston he got a price of $90.00 I think and I told him to order seals as well. Sounds like baileys is a better deal? He is still on the road and the cylinder is with him. You Stihl guys must be a special breed, He was told by two diffrent shops that if the saw came to them they would have told him to junk it.They could not believe he/ I was into it as far as I am they told him the labor costs alone would have almost been enought for him to buy a new saw. Please answer me about the impulse line thing I just dont remember seeing one?I am wondering if it came unplugged with out my help when we were taking it apart/ If so that would explain why I dont remember it? Jeff

 

[VINIFIREWOOD]

Thanks for the reply,
I will have to wait for the cylinder to go on before I can remove the clutch. I did not listen / forgot when earlier they told me to remove clutch and fly wheel first.
He was told that no the cylinder is not trashed that it was trasfer we were feeling? Not too sure bout that but anyway we will try to remove that as well. Where is the impluse line/ connection on the saw I dont remember seeing one? All I see on the base section is a badly leaking gas line ( told him to buy new) and the tank vent? Is it attached to the handle assembly and plugs into the bottom of the cylinder ? I would have to go out to look again but I did not see one. As far as the piston he got a price of $90.00 I think and I told him to order seals as well. Sounds like baileys is a better deal? He is still on the road and the cylinder is with him. You Stihl guys must be a special breed, He was told by two diffrent shops that if the saw came to them they would have told him to junk it.They could not believe he/ I was into it as far as I am they told him the labor costs alone would have almost been enought for him to buy a new saw. Please answer me about the impulse line thing I just dont remember seeing one?I am wondering if it came unplugged with out my help when we were taking it apart/ If so that would explain why I dont remember it? Jeff

There should be two lines running to the carb. Obviously fuel and the other would be the impulse line.
90 for just a piston sounds steep when you can get both P and C from Baileys for not much more.
This is a perfect example of when its a good thing you can fix things yourself. Aside from saving the extra money, its the rewarding feeling you get when you get it all back together and you can say "I did that"!