my efforts at square chisel..

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I believe the topic of the thread was merely square-filing work chain, BK.  Isn't producing professional-quality race chain really a different thing altogether?  Yes, of course it is.
 
G.....the only difference between filing a work chain and filing a race are the angles you might use. Using the file is exactly the same. Go out and try to file one, you'll see!
 
Bknott;

How many hours would you guess to start getting decent results for someone already handy with round file.
 
frank im not sure as rite now im going from a picture.. i got one ordered .. the pic looks like ,the 90 on the inside starts at what would be the gullet.. then it appears to go strait up.. u just about got to see it .. could be i just havnt understood , what the deal was, with square filing..or mabe stihl is tryin for somethin other than a fast chain with this thing . it says for special situations ..
. i thot the idea was an 90 rite in the beak area.. well,, it ll be fun finding out,, what i didnt know about this stuff.
im watching the last laps of the nascar season .. it gonna be one hairy ending .. i got a feeling..:)
 
Tony, the angles on the working corner of the file is 120 deg. but because of the angle of the dangle etc. cuts a 90 deg. corner in the tooth. Lot easier to explain with a file and tooth at hand. Sure would save you some false moves to have someone give you a few pointers. Mind you if you are bull headed enough to outlast a bit of frustration (and I think you are, lol) you can teach yourself. don't be shy to PM me.
 
Dan you need to dress the wheel but you knew that already. As for filing you'll need some Obegrs 150's. They call them Goofy's. Get rid of the the 6 sided and 4 angle sided files. Once you get the hang of the square ground you'll never use round again.

Some members have posted they don't have time at work to file the square, it takes the same amount of time. One thing is the round file wieghs about 1 oz on my triple beam and a goofy is at 2.6 oz's so the power to wieght ratio isn't that big. But the gains are better.
 
Mark, that was clever about the file power-to-weight ratio.

B, nice "avatar".  I was wondering if you were a big baby...

I'm not talking about the various angles you might use depending whether you're cutting valley redwood or ridge-top hickory, but instead all the other stuff done to that chain in your earlier attachment.  Or do you doggy-bone and everything else your work chains too?  LOL

I promise you I'll try my hand at square-filing a chain this week sometime.

Glen
 
well i got the light,really helped..
i tried the reverse filing an twist..seemed to come natural. it works
i believe i got a good start..
even dropped the depth to .030.
aint worried its gonna cut well.
if it cleans out the cut well enough..
them 15-20 inch hickory logs i got out there,, need to be afraid.. i hope.:)
 
Here's what I was shown, start with the horizontal dressing first. Set the angle, take very little off at a time. You can hear the wheel getting dressed. Ding, ding ding, then twist the dresser another 1/16 of a turn until you hear zing all one even sound. As for the vertical do the same. If you have a tooth that's perfect place it in the holder and match it up.

You will know when that wheel starts to load up, it's all sound and sight. One thing that I found out is you need the wheel of the grinder eye level. After doing a few chains it will be old hat. Maybe Woodshonkie can give his system.

It the classic case of "it's hard to get good help over the internet"
 
Frank your asking a question that I can't answer, but it's not easy to learn. It takes a lot of practice of filing both sides the same and every tooth the same. I file right and lefthanded, thf files right handed only. I file both teeth downward and thf files one up , one down. In the end you to have the nack of putting an edge on that tooth. Still, some people file better than others and some people are just better off grinding.
 
I've got two of the flat 6-sided ones.  One's an Oberg and the other's a Brazilian-made Stihl.  I'm pretty sure...
 
I'd wondered about filing from the inside but pulling the file to direct it into the corner.  I plan to at least try it that way once or twice in addition to outside->in.

I've invested in a bit of tree-climbing gear this summer and haven't got around to the filing.&nbsp; I round-file pretty good, and quick, and have always had good success doing things of that nature with my hands.&nbsp; But I <i>am</i> getting older all the time...&nbsp; You know how that goes.

Glen
 
G.....I know this shouldn't be much of a problem for you, but use slow short strokes. LOL
With a tooth that doesn't have a groove to the point yet, make one, and don't worry about the angle. Once you have a groove to follow move your file to the angle you want, and stroke it, short and slow.
 
i went to pulling after a bit..
seemed it allowed more control .
this definitly a different skill than round filing. not that i got it yet ,but i made more progress than i expected ,with fair results.. little fine touches ,kinda like an artist or somethin.. if u fellas ever saw my free hand writing .. u would know that fine motor control,, aint eactly my strength.. still im haveing a little fun here.
this i think will be like anything else..
u get out of it what u put in.. il never be an mechanic .. but this i can do . given enuf time:)
 
Glen your so right but Dan did make mention he was going to break out his square set grinder set up. I am so sorry about that.
I guess BK gave you all the info you need. But you do need to get rid of those cheesy 6 sided files. I do all my hand filing right handed. I never lost a chain with a file but I have with the grinder.

Treeco Since you have the Stihl grinder could you weigh it for me, I want to campare it against my Silvey. I know from the information here that Stihl doesn't give the most accurate info sometimes.
 
The short strokes and the reference to dressing the wheel lightly are all about getting the inside corner as sharp and crisp as possible; any wobble in your filing stroke lifts the file out of the corner and wallows out either the side or top plate edge. I have my chain at shoulder height and that seems to make parallell strokes easier. A lot of files have one or more corners that are not crisp to the edge and I use these for roughing in, then keep a few selected files for finishing. For just cutting wood or practicing it is not that critical thoug. Still faster than round filed or ground.
 
Dan what I do to get me the most accurate weight is place the bench on a rollback and bring it to a weigh station. Try not to let anything fall of either on the way over. You now I like the weight to be on the mark so I can do my comparisons for my power to weight ratio equations.
Thanks and keep posting BK has it all covered.
 
Originally posted by Marky Mark
I guess BK gave you all the info you need. But you do need to get rid of those cheesy 6 sided files.
I guess I'm at a loss as to how you're going to get the correct angles if your file doesn't have six sides.&nbsp; What do you recommend?&nbsp; 5-sided?

I was wrong about the files I've got.&nbsp; The one isn't an Oberg, it's Viiala.
 
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