My new toy- ms362cm 18b/c

[MustangMike]

you have something wrong with your saw then ,crank seal or a bad carb possibly ,i have run triple port on stock cylinder 440 saws and they idle fine and rev up fine ,i had one act like you are describing once ,the crank seal and main bearing was not all the way in on the oil pump side of the saw i was working on an it had similar symptoms ,it should start and run with 1 turn out on both screws then adjust 1/8 turn at a time till makes the most power loaded

Thanks, I appreciate the information. I suspect I may have a crank seal problem as it is occasionally hard to start. When it starts it runs fine, but every now & then it is tough to start. Thanks for your reply, the evidence is mounting that I have a problem.

Appreciate it.

 

[CR888]

If the ms241c-m was priced correctly it would sell itself over most 40cc saws. The problem this saw has is its price, its a real 'pro' saw with side chain tesioner, adjustable oiler, mtronic ect but its similar size, weight and price of the 550xp, with considerable less power. For the $500 price tag, the 241cm is a lost saw that does not make sense to buy. If it was in the $350-$400 bracket it would give consumers a reason to buy it. The way it stands you would be wiser to get a ms250, dolmar 421 or 550xp for similar money.

 

[Trx250r180]

Thanks, I appreciate the information. I suspect I may have a crank seal problem as it is occasionally hard to start. When it starts it runs fine, but every now & then it is tough to start. Thanks for your reply, the evidence is mounting that I have a problem.

Appreciate it.

Couple quick things to check ,if you have a compression guage ,should have around 150psi ,170-175 psi if the base gasket is deleted ,if you hold the pull cord in the air ,does the saw drop slow or fast ?if fast it will be hard to start ,you for sure have low compression ,if you have the black fuel line still ,go to the dealer and get the green one that does not shrink up in ethonol, under load i have had the black ones collapse under vacuum ,the crank seals are cheap and can be swapped just by pulling the flywheel off and the oil pump off ,i would change them just because they harden up after a while and could cause a leak ,if it still runs bad after those few checks i would replace/rebuild the carb ,on the L screw if you turn it in while idling it should shut off fuel to the saw and die ,if it stays running you for sure have an air leak ,the H screw will still stay running screwed all the way in that is ok ,just don't run it like that ,when tuning i start at 1 turn out on both ,then i put the bar i am going to run ,normally a 32 or 28 ,then i will drop the saw in a test cut and turn the H till it makes the most power ,this will normally be a little rich for limbing ,but will not run lean when bucking ,once have the H set i will tweak the L till my idle is strong and smooth ,it is normally real close to 1 turn out though maybe 1 1/4 even with triple ported muffler

 

[MustangMike]

Brian, Thanks a ton for your very practical advice. I did install the Green Fuel Line last year and I rebuilt the carb (a professional told me it could be the diaphams), but no change. I believe compression is good because it cuts well and almost took my arm off when I tried to start it warm the other day, but I did your test and it falls very slowly, in fact, after the 1st two chugs it almost seems to stop before chugging a third time. I still have the gasket, aside from the duel port muffler cover she is completely stock.

I suspect it is the cranks seals or impulse line. I've never pulled the flywheel on a chainsaw before, do you need a tool? I suppose I should hook up with my nephew (MechanicMatt), he plays with them all the time.

How much do you gain by pulling the gasket, and what other adjustment would you need to make? (Timing?).

No, I'm not converting it to a big bore (just kidding).

Thanks again for your excellent advice.

 

[MechanicMatt]

Uncle Mike, That little white topped husky you liked the other day has no base gasket. Just like the days of your old FE big blocks, compression goes a LONG way. The flywheel is not hard neither is the oiler. And yeah, I saw the recoil pull through your fingers when we were noodling up the ash chunks. Brian, it four strokes out of the cut and cleans up in the cut. I was worried for it after seeing the dual port, so that was the first thing I checked. Isn't there a trick where you have the saw idle, then rotate it every which way to get see if the idle goes up? I thought that was the "back yard" test for crank seals. I too have a mighty vac we could test the saw with, but ive told my uncle before,the saw is over 20 years old, maybe its time for some seals regardless. Or just send it off to get built, and have them put fresh seals in it then. Ported 044, triple port muffler, 200+ psi. You'd forget all about that little 362cm of yours

 

[MustangMike]

A few people had requested I post some pics for my muffler mod on the 362, so hear they are. Not as elaborate as KGs, but you can do it with just a drill and a piece of sheet metal. Also, if you ever want to restore it to stock, just replace the muffler cover. I cut the corners in the back of the deflector, bent the sides in, and bent the top down. It is firm against the muffler flange so it will stay down.

I made 3 port holes through the muffler cover, one 3/8" and two 1/4", all covered by the same deflector (more volume than a single 1/2" hole, but less likely to inhale debris).

I also removed the muffler screen, and if I wanted to vent it more I would add a few more holes next to the original port.

The noise level when operating the saw is basically unchanged, and the saw should run cooler (and now it has duel exhaust, much cooler)!

Nothing fancy, but easy to do w/o any sophisticated tools.

 

[Spectre468]

Looks good, Mike!

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks, and you can see in the background that wood is not the only thing I've cut. My friend Harold and I put up 22 tons on granite on the house, all cut with hammer and chisel, was a lot of work.

 

[Spectre468]

Thanks, and you can see in the background that wood is not the only thing I've cut. My friend Harold and I put up 22 tons on granite on the house, all cut with hammer and chisel, was a lot of work.

Yeah, I noticed that, too. Very nicely done!

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks.

 

[TOU]

Hey All,

First time post...nice site! Great input on this thread, thank you.

I currently have a Makita/Dolmar DCS6401-20 but am finding it lacking. It runs fine but I think it less powerful than I think it should be even on 12" trees. I am not a professional but like quality tools & tend to overbuy rather than under buy even if it a bit more money. I could probably spend some time & money having it revamped but it was a refurb to begin with a couple of years ago...I think it was originally a rental before being rebuilt.

I have been researching a new saw the last few months and have narrowed it down to the Stihl 362CM as I want to be able to push a 25" bar (will also buy a 20" bar) as I am a bit over 6' 1" an it seems it would be nice on my back to pivot for limbing etc. I live in Utah & will be cutting wood at higher elevations and lower elevations. It is mostly for firewood & clearing & this will be my one and only all around saw.

Okay that all said, anyone able to compare my Dolmar vs this 362...I do not mean to start any controversy, I just would like to have your all's input.

Also, they tell me that the biggest case will only fit a 20" bar without modifying the bar cover. Is this true? The dealer I was looking at also sells Husky cases which do have a case to fit a 25" bar and will fit the Stihl (sacrilege I know). Anyway it is a really cool square case that seems much more ergonomic, stackable & roomy...considering it.

Thx for your replies

TOU

 

[Spectre468]

I can't speak to the Dolmar as I have no experience with them, but all I can say is that the 362 C-M won't disappoint, especially as a one and only do it all.

 

[weedkilla]

If you have any interest in hotting up a saw, the 6401 is a great base to start on. Search dolmar bb or dolmar 7900 and you will have enough reading for a month.
The 362cm is a great choice for a single saw set up. If you bought one perhaps the 6401 could be built up and fitted with a longer bar for bigger wood, keeping a 20" on the 362, or look at a good 50cc saw for small work and have a big bore 6401 for the bigger stuff. Really depends how much you like tinkering in the shed - or if you want to use one of the builders on this site to build you something out of the 6401.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WyFQBUgLAx4

Dunno what the 6401 would fetch you second hand, but my guess is not much.

 

[MustangMike]

TOU, Welcome to the site and glad you liked this thread. There is a lot to learn on this site.

I love my 362 C-M as an all around saw, and run a 20" bar on it (square file chain also helps), but when I am bucking big wood (over 20") I still love to break out my 044 (70.7 cc). The M-Tronic on the 362 is wonderful, always starts easy and adjusts to any conditions.

I can't improve on the advice given by Weedkilla, sounds like an excellent strategy to me. It is always good to have a second saw, in case one gets stuck, hits a nail or rock, etc. If you cut enough, stuff happens.

Just bought a 24/25" bar cover yesterday (one of the thin ones like the one that comes with the saw). It is a little taller than the 20" cover. However, it will work in the case, but you just have to compress it a little (not much), so it will work.

Best of Luck
MustangMike

 

[TOU]

Thank you all for your feedback. I read a ton about Big Boring the Dolmar/Makita but I think in the end I have to make a choice on one or the other for now. Also I'm not sure I'm up to doing the BB myself & not sure I want to put money into this saw. So I listed it in my local classifieds for $275. While I guess I may regret selling it somewhere down the road as they do seem to have an almost cult following for those that want to tune & put BB kits on them.

That all said, I believe I will have to live with a single all around reliable saw & believe the 362 CM should fit the bill for many years to come. I am buying it with the 25" bar as it is much cheaper to add a 20" bar & chain rather than the reverse.

Thx again!

TOU

 

[MustangMike]

Good Luck with your saw. Often the 362 C-M will take about 5 or 6 tanks of fuel before it breaks in. It will cut fast right from the start, but will bog easily on big wood if you don't let the saw "run". After 5 or 6 tanks, it will have far more torque.

 

[Spectre468]

Sweet! Good choice!

 

[7sleeper]

Thank you all for your feedback. I read a ton about Big Boring the Dolmar/Makita but I think in the end I have to make a choice on one or the other for now. Also I'm not sure I'm up to doing the BB myself & not sure I want to put money into this saw. So I listed it in my local classifieds for $275. While I guess I may regret selling it somewhere down the road as they do seem to have an almost cult following for those that want to tune & put BB kits on them.

That all said, I believe I will have to live with a single all around reliable saw & believe the 362 CM should fit the bill for many years to come. I am buying it with the 25" bar as it is much cheaper to add a 20" bar & chain rather than the reverse.

Thx again!

TOU

@TOU,

sorry my friend but you are making a serious mistake! Get a standard 7900 top end and you will never look back or regret having one of the all time greatest out there! The 362 comparing it to a regular 7900 is simply insulting.

Good luck!

7

 

[KG441c]

@TOU,

sorry my friend but you are making a serious mistake! Get a standard 7900 top end and you will never look back or regret having one of the all time greatest out there! The 362 comparing it to a regular 7900 is simply insulting.

Good luck!

7

I love my 362c but agree with 7 sleeper!! I traded my 441c that I was having problems with and got a 461r. Cut with it awhile ago, Wow!!!!!is all I can say!

 

[MustangMike]

Congrats on the 461, I hear they are very nice saws! The closest I've run is my brothers 460, but I think the 461 is an improvement on it. What size bar? Give us some feedback, because I heard the 441 C is also supposed to be very strong.