My Splitter Build (heavy on photos)

[jthornton]

Thanks Dave, I'll put a full flow ball valve in there. I think I'm going to come out of the front of the tank. I would need about 18" of hose for that so it would be easy to put on and off. This gives me the added benefit of the pressure hose facing the right way.

JT

 

[ETpilot]

Are you adding a baffle inside the reservoir? If so, please post a picture of your design. I am going to use a round reservoir and am thinking of how to add a baffle.

 

[jthornton]

Are you adding a baffle inside the reservoir? If so, please post a picture of your design. I am going to use a round reservoir and am thinking of how to add a baffle.

I don't have a photo yet, I'm thinking something tacked to the side of the tank that covers the return with some holes to slow down the velocity and splashing. Maybe someone has some photos we can both look at.

JT

 

[Jakers]

if you run your return below the full oil line you wont get any splashing. it just makes changing return filters interesting. they exchange oil pretty good with just that. if you arent gonna run a cooler and are slightly worried about temps getting warm then you can run cooling "flues" through the tank with just a fan on them too. i never really saw the need for a baffle tho

 

[jthornton]

Does anyone see anything terribly wrong with this location for the splitter valve?

Keep in the back of your mind, I'm right handed, the beam folds down for transport only.

JT

 

[triptester]

Do you normally have a shut off valve on the suction line? I assume some kind of baffle between the return hole to break up the flow?

JT

I put a shut off in the suction line incase any work needs to be done on the pump or suction hose. Abaffle down the center of the tank with suction and discharge at the same end forces the fluid to travel the longess distance for cooling and removing air. Also consider an inspection openning in the top of the tank for cleaning.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/triptester/hydraulictank004.jpg

A drain can also be seen through the suction hole.

 

[jthornton]

I hope my tank looks that good when I'm done. I pretty much have to have the return on one end and the suction on the other end or so it seems at this point. I'll make a similar setup to your fill cap, what kind of gasket material did you use?

JT

 

[triptester]

The valve at that level will be in the way of the split wood.It should be raised up.

 

[jthornton]

That does pose a small problem as I can't mount the valve to the beam very high or it will hit the engine when I lower the beam for transport. I'll have to study the options...

JT

 

[jags]

I agree that the suggested valve position is not optimal. It wouldn't need to be attached to the beam. An upright piece of 2x2 tubing would give you a substantial "base" to work with.

 

[triptester]

The control valve could be mounted to the right and just above the wedge. It should clear the engine. I noticed the exhaust is right next to the hydraulic tank it could cause a heat problem.

 

[Preston]

To me it looks like you will have to be over on or into the trailer to operate it. Is that so or am I looking at it wrong?

 

[jthornton]

With the valve in this position or higher it clears the engine when down.

JT

 

[jthornton]

To me it looks like you will have to be over on or into the trailer to operate it. Is that so or am I looking at it wrong?

I'm standing behind the splitter when splitting.

I will have more table area around the reaction plate when I'm done (I hope).

JT

 

[triptester]

The handle must be above the face of the wedge so wood doesn't interfere handle operation.

 

[jthornton]

The handle must be above the face of the wedge so wood doesn't interfere handle operation.

One of the things I value the most about this forum is the experience you guys have and that you don't mind sharing it.

I understand what your saying but I never cut 24" logs so the stop will be set at 20" as I usually only cut 18" rounds so the handle will above the bottom of the wedge in normal operation. Here is what I cobbled up and tacked on... the only thing that bugs me is the return line hanging out in outer space. Also a round would have to be 2' in diameter x 24" long to touch the handle if I split it in half. At this point I can always knock it off and move it up. I do like the feel of the handle at this position... I don't want it too high as I'm a bit short and don't want to reach above my shoulder to operate it.

Thanks
JT

 

[gulity1]

The valve is an Ok postion for you ? make sure stand there with you hand on it for some time The reason I say that is my shoulder cramps when my hand is raised above my shoulder for any time longer then about 1 min bad rotator cuff along with other stupid stuff. Now imagine a hose about the size of a shop vac hose and others hanging bending etc there are we still happy?? What height is the reaction plate off of the gorund? seems like about 28-34 inches is about right for height, figure kitchen counter top are 36" tall if I remeber right, just an example. If you need hyd hoses contact me I am sure I can help 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 or 3/4 Most suction is wire re-enforced just an fyi it ahs about a 6-8 bend radi if I remember.
When you fab your tank you can use a 90 shut off then a 90 to make your turn and get your 180 turn done and also take care of the shut off issue If you need a pic of the fittings I can try to post one if you would like

 

[jthornton]

The reaction plate is 30" off the ground with the wheels off the ground. A 90 out of the tank would work perfect, the bend radius would be 12"-14" to the pump suction. I'd love to see some photos. The splitter valve is a Prince with 3/4" in and out and 1/2" working ports but the data sheet that came with it doesn't say what threads they are...

JT

 

[triptester]

Consider running the valve flat it should make for a better hose routing

.

 

[jthornton]

Mounting it flat does make sense and easier to operate with in and out instead of up/down on the lever... that's why I just tacked it in position until I got more feedback.

Thanks
JT