Need a little help with clutch removal

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gravely_todd

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Location
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I have a "new to me" Solo 645. The saw runs great, but doesn't oil, and I took the sprocket off to expose the clutch and assume it is threaded on and that I just need to put in a piston stop and screw it off in the direction of the arrow? Am I on the right track ? This is really the first saw I have had to tear apart, so some of this stuff is new to me, so excuse my stupid questions....Is there a special tool to unscrew the clutch or what do you guys use ?? I did check to make sure there was oil in it and that the oiler adjustment was up all the way to test it out, but get no oil out of it...

Here is a pic of what I am looking at....sorry it is a bit blurry..

IMG00467.jpg


Thanks

Todd
 
Usually there is a hex nut built into the clutch so you can take it off with a socket, from your pics it is hard to see if there is one. It looks like you need a clutch removal tool. A Husky one may work on that saw. You are right about the piston stop and the off direction. Heres some clutch removal tools from Baileys.

http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=clutch%20removal%20tool&catID=95
 
You could also blow some air into the tank vent first. Remove the oil cap and blow some air into it. Also check your filter. The oil line could be air locked.
 
It does not look like there is any hex nut on that clutch. Many will take a hammer and punch to the clutch to loosen it but that can damage clutch, crankshaft, or shaft bearings. You can easily make a clutch removal tool from an old socket that is large enough to extend out to the solid edges of the central beam of the clutch. Just grind out the edge of the socket so it laps over the beam edges and use either a wrench (with blocked piston) or an impact wrench (with free piston). Just don't use the impact to tighten the clutch.
 
To bad so much of the crank is protruding. If it was flush you could grab the center beam with a 6 or 8" cresent wrench and remove with another adjustable wrench on the first wrench - a bit shade tree I admit, but it makes a pretty good purchase on the clutch. I might try to see if I could do it anyways.
 
I use some rope to lock the piston then use a Angle Grinder 2 Pin Spanner to remove the clutch, if it's really tight slip some pipe over the spanner for more leverage.
DSCF0415Large-1.jpg
 
Ok, I am aware of what I need to do and I am now going to hi-jack my own thread and ask the question........should I use rope or get a piston stop ? I have heard about using rope on other equipment before, so that is not new to me, but I have also heard of people saying NOT to use rope and I don't know why ? Is a piston stop better ? I know I can get a piston stop from Bailey's among other places, but I don't want to pay $4 for the stop and $8 to ship it when I can just use a new piece of rope for the local hardware store for a few cents. What is the popular concensus ??

Todd
 
Rope is bad. I have never done it but have heard that it can cause problems. I could see a piston getting stuck or worse. Get a piston stop. They are cheap. I use a plastic one that came with the ring clamp kit from Baileys. Otherwise you might be able to rig something else up that will work. You can also use an air impact wrench and I have, but I have also heard horror stories about that and I don't do it anymore.
 
I've used rope for years, just make sure that the piston is above the exhaust port, as mentioned. Far, far less chance of piston damage with rope than a stop, pressure is spread over more surface area. gmax is right.
 
A bench vice will work to get that clutch off. Tighten two bolts in the vice just far enough apart so they fit between the clutch shoes grab the whole saw and spin the clutch off.
Rope works excellent as a piston stop.
 
A bench vice will work to get that clutch off. Tighten two bolts in the vice just far enough apart so they fit between the clutch shoes grab the whole saw and spin the clutch off.
Rope works excellent as a piston stop.

Clever idea with the vise to hold the two pins.
 
That is a good idea about the vise, I may give that a try. I have a piston stop on it's way from Bailey's and I ordered a couple other things and threw it in the order..

Todd
 
+1 on the rope, as mentioned make sure the piston is above the port.

+1 on the rope - I've seen some nasty dents in the tops of pistons from piston stops.

A big Crescent (adjustable spanner) end on to the crankshaft may be as good a way as any of removing the clutch if the jaws will fit.
 
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