Need a mid-range saw recommendation

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Agree with the 250 crowd. I’ve repaired and modded a half doz or so and they are a great saw for the average homeowner who cuts a few cord a year. Muffler mod is a must to wake him up, imo. Carb issues are the most common complaint. Sometimes hey just need cleaning but oe replacements are relatively cheap, so…
Reminds me…need to order another 250 carb for the one on the floor, lol…

18”, .325 works great.
 
I been using 025's ànd the newer version ms250 a good 20 years. I find them a very comfortable saw to run with out getting fatigued and still getting a lot of work per hour of use. They are sweet handling and have been as reliable as pro saws the 3 ones I spent a lot of time using. 2 we're personal, the 2nd I got cause 1 was stolen, . Now I am older I use it more . We had 1 at the state nursery decades old well used, much by careless ameutures, was still going strong when I left. I never had a problem with easy starts, you just don't pull them fast and hard like standard starters and they work well.
A good muffler mod and 3/8 picco makes them zip through the wood quicker, are easier and cheaper to maintain but they are quite peppy with standard .325 also.
 
MS 250 is still available around here and a fantastic firewood saw. Muffler mod and it's beyond.
Echo CS 490 is another serious consideration.
By the way, don't understand the starting issues with the the 250 " user error " ,
Perhaps the easiest starting saw I own, 3 pulls consistently.
Not sure what your other two saws are but my 250 is by far my hardest to start. Educate me on "user error" please.
 
Not sure what your other two saws are but my 250 is by far my hardest to start. Educate me on "user error" please.
The starting "issue" that usually occurs with the 250 is with a cold start with the choke on. Due to the slow cranking speed the user might not notice the "pop" and continue to pull with the choke on flooding the saw.

To prevent this limit the number of pulls on full choke or better yet pay attention to the saw pulling on your arm or ripping the handle out of your hand. If you experience either the saw has 'popped" and just remove the choke and pull until it starts. Warm starts are usually not a problem.
 
I owned an 025 at one point (early 2000s), and I've handled a few MS250s over the years. I'll never own another one. I'd take a used 026 over a new MS251 any day of the week.

FWIW, a 361 is a midrange saw :) For what you're wanting, you're looking for a good 50cc saw. Personally, my requirements for a saw of this size is that it has to put out at least 3-1/2 hp and has to weigh less than 11 pounds, and of course it has to be reliable.
 
The starting "issue" that usually occurs with the 250 is with a cold start with the choke on. Due to the slow cranking speed the user might not notice the "pop" and continue to pull with the choke on flooding the saw.

To prevent this limit the number of pulls on full choke or better yet pay attention to the saw pulling on your arm or ripping the handle out of your hand. If you experience either the saw has 'popped" and just remove the choke and pull until it starts. Warm starts are usually not a problem.
My neighbor has a 250 that starts just fine when its cold, but once its running, you better not shut it off. He even goes so far as to refuel it while its running because once it stops, its done for the day.
 
The starting "issue" that usually occurs with the 250 is with a cold start with the choke on. Due to the slow cranking speed the user might not notice the "pop" and continue to pull with the choke on flooding the saw.

To prevent this limit the number of pulls on full choke or better yet pay attention to the saw pulling on your arm or ripping the handle out of your hand. If you experience either the saw has 'popped" and just remove the choke and pull until it starts. Warm starts are usually not a problem.
This was the most common complaint I encountered in my dealership days. To the point of gas running out of the muffler and hydro-locking the engine.
Pay attention to your starting procedure as SteveSr says.
Try richening the low speed mixture screw a tiny bit- 1/16- 1/8 turn and see if that helps.
Zama carbs sometimes develop internal air leaks when they get old.
Warm restart problems can also be the ignition coil fading away when it gets hot.
 
Not sure what your other two saws are but my 250 is by far my hardest to start. Educate me on "user error" please.
Only use 2-3 pulls on choke then flip it up to next position up which is high idle.
After the saw has been used and is warm it starts on the 1st pull on high idle.
Example of high idle position PXL_20250102_203019564.jpg
 
Not sure what your other two saws are but my 250 is by far my hardest to start. Educate me on "user error" please.
Evidently some start harder then others. I speculate fine tuning of something is off most likely the choke fully closing, an air leak somewhere or a fault in the carb.
Try this if u haven't, put it on full choke, pull it over slowly about 12 reveloutions of the piston, leave the choke on, get the saw well braced, give it a strong full pull until it pops and go to part throttle and use a cocistent strong full pull. If it doesn't pop it will probably be flooded after a few to several pulls.Then hold the throttle wide open until it starts and revs fully up.
 
Only use 2-3 pulls on choke then flip it up to next position up which is high idle.
After the saw has been used and is warm it starts on the 1st pull on high idle.
Example of high idle position View attachment 1230789
I agree with this start technique. If the ms250 has ran in the last 15-20 minutes even, just go to high idle first. Should fire up in 2-4 pulls.

Another tip, that I don't think was mentioned, but applies to a lot of saws if they are either prone to flooding or are hard starters - starting from cold pull 2-3 times on full choke - then put saw on the ground, put your boot toe in the handle so it puts the saw at full throttle position (disengage chain brake first and make sure bar is not going to hit anything on ground), and then pull til it starts. This will start them, almost all of them. If it doesn't then you for sure have a vacuum, air filter, carb, or larger leak issue. If warm restarting (15-20 min post run on an ms250 in mild or warm temps), just skip the full choke step.
 
Some good ideas on starting an MS250. On mine most of the problem seems to be I can't get a good strong pull. I'll admit I'm 71 and not the physical specimen I once was but damn if it isn't the hardest pulling saw I've ever attempted. I want to like the saw (and do when I can get it started) but its always a struggle.
 
Some good ideas on starting an MS250. On mine most of the problem seems to be I can't get a good strong pull. I'll admit I'm 71 and not the physical specimen I once was but damn if it isn't the hardest pulling saw I've ever attempted. I want to like the saw (and do when I can get it started) but its always a struggle.
You would love an ms261cm. The decompression valve on it makes a difference for people in your situation. It's quite bit more powerful and the same weight. But also darn near twice the price. For the ms250, the boot in the handle works well as long as it doesn't hurt your back. I really love the ms250, but I agree, mine has ridiculous compression, and my wife and 74yo father really struggled with it...so I did get a 261 for them.
 
Hey guys, Merry Christmas/Happy New Year! Looking for another saw. Right now I have an MS170 and a MS361. Sometime the 170 isn't enough and the 361 is overkill. Been very happy with the Stihls, but I'm open to other recommendations. Anyway, what I want is a mid-range saw, started looking at the 250 and that seems to be in the sweet spot, definitely don't need a pro saw. This will mainly be used to do the occasional cutting on my property up in West Virginia. Would like to stay in the $500 range. Thanks in advance.
Dear J.J. , staying with stihl the model 250 . I worked at stihl dealership and the model 250 would have $50.00 off from September or October thru December 31st. I have a 261 tricked out thats , out of the $500
range , cuts super fast. Everyone wants to cut with it. I am going work make it fast and exciting.
There is another saw if it want give you the sour belches is husqvarna 346xp and 353 chain saws , they are light and fast, then send the chainsaw guy that is on here and have it tricked and ported. That will go over the $500.00 .
J.J. these saws are discontinued
but do your homework and find a used one husqvarna 346xp or the 353. I have seen new ones on here for $800.00 , that's mega bucks.
I run 16 inch bars and 20 inch
bars on mine. I understand thats out of the $500.00 range. I am not sure of the price of the Stihl 250 , before I semi-retired to take care of mom was with discount $399.00. I am not sure now.
J.J. , the porting and other things they do , you will find yourself
hunting things to do with the saw.
J.J. , I did this and makes it easier , faster when you get to use it and buy and extra saw chain.
J.J , I kno I am out of the price range , the stihl 250 with and 18 inch will be close too $500.00 , and if you can wait till they have the special pricing at September or October and $50.00 off. I hope this helps J.J. Thanks Buck
 
We have a 250 at work. New maintenance kid said he tried to start it but failed. He claimed something wrong with it cause it just floods out. Was gonna take it to Stihl dealer to fix.

Now, he is not at total saw noob as he has an Echo 590 for a few yrs now and cuts almost every weekend. I have seen some vids of him and said saw dropping sticks.

So, I had to explain the quirks of the 250 starting procedure after I pulled my guts out with the throttle pinned wide open as he starred in disbelief when she coughed to life! LOL :laughing:
Dear Chevboy0167 , this may be hard to do , I use premium or hitest gas. The 250's are terrible to try and start with regular gas and when cold dbl. Whammy , Buck
 
You would love an ms261cm. The decompression valve on it makes a difference for people in your situation. It's quite bit more powerful and the same weight. But also darn near twice the price. For the ms250, the boot in the handle works well as long as it doesn't hurt your back. I really love the ms250, but I agree, mine has ridiculous compression, and my wife and 74yo father really struggled with it...so I did get a 261 for them.
I added an Echo CS4910 to the fold. Nice saw, don't really need the 250 now but haven't made it to giving up on it. I'll fiddle with it some more when the weather is a bit better and then likely see what I can get for it.
 
My neighbor has a 250 that starts just fine when its cold, but once its running, you better not shut it off. He even goes so far as to refuel it while its running because once it stops, its done for the day.

I can appreciate his frustration!! I have the exact same problem with my 250. After refueling, etc., it doesn't want to hear it, until it sits for an hour, or so.

For a lot of jobs, I prefer to use the 250, but after shutting it off, I need to use my CS 590 to continue, for a while. Then, if I'm lucky, the 250 will start...

Pi$$es me off...

Rich
 
I can appreciate his frustration!! I have the exact same problem with my 250. After refueling, etc., it doesn't want to hear it, until it sits for an hour, or so.

For a lot of jobs, I prefer to use the 250, but after shutting it off, I need to use my CS 590 to continue, for a while. Then, if I'm lucky, the 250 will start...

Pi$$es me off...

Rich
My first saw was an 025. If dad hadn't been using Stihl saws for my entire life, I would have never owned another Stihl. I know a lot of folks like them, but honestly they are no better than what ever cheap junk you can buy at the box store. If a person is looking for a 50cc Stihl, its a 026/260/261 or nothing. I'd take an old 026 over a brand new MS251 every day of the week and twice on Sunday. If I somehow found myself with a MS251, I'd sell it as fast as I could and put the money towards a gently used 261.
 
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