Need advice felling this forked, split tree

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A lot of the advice was to back cut it, which is what the landowner did, with a follow-up photo of exactly what was going to happen if you back cut a leaning split tree .............. barberchaired.

It was basically a fail without injuries. But it got wrote off as a success because nobody got killed.

Everybody chalks up wins a little different I guess.

Sam

so, no face just back?
 
so, no face just back?
No the photo showed he faced it and back cut it.


But face or no face a split tree with a lean is going to 'chair when cut from the back, that is just the physics of it, it is a barber chair that is waiting to have the back cut, and if you back cut it, guess what you just released it, doesn't matter what name or the speed with which you back cut it it will barber chair.

If you bore cut a leaning tree you have removed about 90% of the reason or chance there is to barber chair, I've cut some seriously leaning trees in these bottom's ground and the worst I get is a weak slabing of the front of the tree or the root system pulls out of the back and it goes over, but in both cases there were usually some things I didn't do correctly to prevent that, like too thick of a hinge or not enough face (like a good 90 degree face cut).

Sam
 
Drywall Stilts is what I would use, LOL.

Sam

Mastermind would be the right dude for this job then. Check out his YouTube videos, and you'll see he brings his stilts everywhere he goes.

i think we may need randymac on this one ,he seems to have the right answers when comes to chains and straps ..........

And my signature line is better for it.

#### a bunch of sissy gear.
:ices_rofl:

Do what you think best.

I would face cut deep, at chest level and plunge cut behind the crack, saw forward, prepare to run.

Potential addition to my aforementioned signature line?
 
I would call James, he doesn't need a stinkin' ladder...

[video=youtube_share;7oCDcTxFUkk]http://youtu.be/7oCDcTxFUkk[/video]
 
That tree is'nt near as bad as the one in the other thread.

The way I would do it is with a shallow, but wide open face. 90° would work for me. Bore in right behind that split and then cut forward towards the face to set a hinge. then I'd just cut it out the back like any bore cut. You can do all of that in one cut. It should be fine.

Only thing better than that would be a bucket truck to raise up and take it down one side at a time.
 
That tree is'nt near as bad as the one in the other thread.

The way I would do it is with a shallow, but wide open face. 90° would work for me. Bore in right behind that split and then cut forward towards the face to set a hinge. then I'd just cut it out the back like any bore cut. You can do all of that in one cut. It should be fine.

Only thing better than that would be a bucket truck to raise up and take it down one side at a time.

On leaners you don't want to bore in very far behind the hinge and then come forward, because it is much more difficult to gauge when its about to sit down or crush your hinge, as you inch forward making the hinge, and thereby making the hinge smaller. Its better to make the hinge first within reason and then work backwards out the back.

Sam
 
Why not just take the right side leaner off and leave the rest of the tree? Just me, but I'd prefer to have a mast producing tree on my property vs. a rotting stump. Acorns are good... bambi likes to eat them, i like to eat bambi...

I've got another 40+ acres with plenty of big oaks like this one and the acorns are falling like mad this year. Not to mention hickory nuts, persimmon, grain, etc. Bambi has plenty to eat :cheers

At least one big tree like this falls every year from ice, wind, lightning, and disease. I figured I'd take this one before it rots so that I can put it where I want it, use the firewood, and keep it from falling across the road on its own terms.
 
Apparently you don't know the rule about saws and ladders ................ never combine the two.

Sam
unless your looking to be just another Idiot on youtube with a gaping wound, looking for 10 seconds of fame ...
 
I've got another 40+ acres with plenty of big oaks like this one and the acorns are falling like mad this year. Not to mention hickory nuts, persimmon, grain, etc. Bambi has plenty to eat :cheers

At least one big tree like this falls every year from ice, wind, lightning, and disease. I figured I'd take this one before it rots so that I can put it where I want it, use the firewood, and keep it from falling across the road on its own terms.

Kill them and cut them up before they rot. This is good advice for bambii (thats plural) and trees.

Sam
 
Just for the record, I use ladders pretty often when working on trees. Mostly, this bull#### about never mixing ladders and chainsaws is about insurance companies and liability. If you have half a brain, a whole ladder and some patience, ladders can be an important tool for arborist work.

Yeah, but don't listen to me. I've only been using ladders for some of this stuff since 1979 with no mishaps.

I'm sure Randy will have something pithy to say about ladders, since he's all full of himself after the lifetime quote about chains and straps, but I go my own way, and don't listen much to snakes and adders. ;)
 
Shallow face cut, then stab and slab it:)

Thanks, Brad. Straight to the point :rock:

Ok folks, I think I have a pretty good plan, thanks to all your advice:
  1. make a 90deg shallow open-faced notch to allow it to fall toward the lean
  2. bore completely through behind the notch to leave about a 2" hinge
  3. cut from the bore all the way back
  4. let it fall

I'll follow up with results and pics :greenchainsaw:
 
Thanks, Brad. Straight to the point :rock:

Ok folks, I think I have a pretty good plan, thanks to all your advice:
  1. make a 90deg shallow open-faced notch to allow it to fall toward the lean
  2. bore completely through behind the notch to leave about a 2" hinge
  3. cut from the bore all the way back
  4. let it fall

I'll follow up with results and pics :greenchainsaw:

With all due respect for one of the cool saw modders, Brad's not a faller per se. That being said, I like the OP's new plan just slightly better than his original one.
 
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Just for the record, I use ladders pretty often when working on trees. Mostly, this bull#### about never mixing ladders and chainsaws is about insurance companies and liability. If you have half a brain, a whole ladder and some patience, ladders can be an important tool for arborist work.

Yeah, but don't listen to me. I've only been using ladders for some of this stuff since 1979 with no mishaps.

I'm sure Randy will have something pithy to say about ladders, since he's all full of himself after the lifetime quote about chains and straps, but I go my own way, and don't listen much to snakes and adders. ;)

I think the "anti ladder crowd", which included me, were referring mostly to the use of ladders by inexperienced people.

Most of us are aware that a ladder, used safely, is a good tool. But, you gotta admit, most people don't have a clue about how to use them right.

Anybody ever count how many ladder disaster tree vids are on You-Tube? There's a bunch.
 
I think the "anti ladder crowd", which included me, were referring mostly to the use of ladders by inexperienced people.

Most of us are aware that a ladder, used safely, is a good tool. But, you gotta admit, most people don't have a clue about how to use them right.

Anybody ever count how many ladder disaster tree vids are on You-Tube? There's a bunch.

I think insurance claimswise you are combining two of the worst "tools" with a ladder and a saw, LOL.

Sam
 
Cut a notch in the direction of the lean. Bore the heart wood out from the back side, eliminatining a barber chair while keeping post wood on corners for hinge. Then put in a standard back cut. You don't need any thing else. Good luck.
 

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