M
moody
Guest
That's no joke. If I can get the file to send I've got a video of a tree that was hollow. It also had a large chunk blown out by lightning. Literally could walk inside it. 50inch tree:msp_mellow:
Need advice felling this forked, split tree
- Thread starter 40YearHomelite
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That's no joke. If I can get the file to send I've got a video of a tree that was hollow. It also had a large chunk blown out by lightning. Literally could walk inside it. 50inch tree:msp_mellow:
I hope the OP is reading this stuff and learning.
A tip I was given was to "hit the rakers a couple of times" with a flat file on every third filing. It seems to work well too, if I can remember if it is the third filing.
A tip I was given was to "hit the rakers a couple of times" with a flat file on every third filing. It seems to work well too, if I can remember if it is the third filing.
Aaah, Slowp just him learn how he wants to. One day he'll put a dull chain behind a little something or other and get his bell rung, that is after he comes to. Then he might start to think, "hey maybe those #######s where right.."
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
would you rather defend your self with a butter knife or a sharp kbar. to the op . just take it a little more serious. good luck.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
I measure the raker height every other sharpening these days and file as necessary, but every third sharpening would probably suffice and be more efficient.
BTW, I've been wondering about the OP's saw bogging down in the cut in the video; seems to me when the rakers are set too high, the chain has no bite and the motor tends to over-rev if anything...
braiding4fun
ArboristSite Lurker
I don't know much about felling trees, I'll say that right off. But I've been reading what you guys have to say about felling leaners and such, and I am glad to be able to learn from guys that know. I had to drop a leaning ash the other day, it was about 28-30". It didn't have any splits, but the center 3" was hollow and full of water. That was a bit of a surprise when I saw water start flying out of the tree.... I just did a face cut, and then back cut it, but having read this thread I think I would probably do it differently if I had it to do over. It didn't barber or split or anything, it went down just as planned, but I don't know that I was fully aware of how dangerous it could have been.
So to the OP, I'm sorry you feel jumped on, I'm sure if I'd posted video of my tree I'd have got the same reactions you did. I do want to say though, that I have learned a few things from your thread, and I'm glad you posted. Don't take it too hard that you're getting "educated", there are others of us who are learning too, even if it is at your expense. Thanks.
So to the OP, I'm sorry you feel jumped on, I'm sure if I'd posted video of my tree I'd have got the same reactions you did. I do want to say though, that I have learned a few things from your thread, and I'm glad you posted. Don't take it too hard that you're getting "educated", there are others of us who are learning too, even if it is at your expense. Thanks.
M
moody
Guest
I think that was caused by "over" dawging the saw.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
zogger
Tree Freak
That pic, after I first saw it, really helped me a lot. Leaners cool and steering them with the hinge and holding wood cool. That and learning about bore cutting.
I am still not getting it on *reversing* a lean though, correct sequence and style of cuts. I have around a 20 inch or so standing dead, most branches gone, red oak I would like to try whatever techniques are involved on that.
Wish we had a good sticky, with good clear pics, vids, etc. JUST for felling, (and no off topic banter as much as possible).
Hedgerow
HACK
braiding4fun
ArboristSite Lurker
So does anyone use this felling technique? I'm assuming that this wouldn't be a good idea on a leaner, but after looking at it, I'm trying to figure out why you ever would use this at all? Is it just so you can use a wedge on a tree that's too small to put a wedge in behind your saw on the back cut?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLkgWFh9lDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLkgWFh9lDs
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
that looks like a good way if need to wedge a smaller tree a certain direction ,i like it ,bigger trees just wedge normally
zogger
Tree Freak
Ha! I know on the banter..I just think a good practical felling sticky would be quite useful. I am not a pro feller though, I would rather someone who is started it off.
No need for any more stickies. Try this thread...there's 444 pages, some of which contain useful information.
http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/116358.htm
The banter is part of the fun. Sometimes.
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Reversing a lean depends on the size of the tree and how much lean it has. If the tree is big and it has a heavy lean you're probably not going to reverse it. A Coos Bay cut, in any of it's variations, mostly helps to lessen the chance of a barber chair. Notice I say "helps to lessen the chance." There is nothing you can do to totally eliminate the chance of a 'chair.
Look up the "soft dutchman", the "kerf dutchman", and the "sis-wheel cut". They're good for swinging a mild leaner if they're done right. No guarantees. The trees don't read the diagrams.
And, again, we have enough stickies. We do make an effort to eliminate as much off topic banter as we can but there's no way we'll ever get rid of it all. Deal with it.
Thanks for the reminder. That was demonstrated at a Game of Logging class. Only thing, a plastic wedge and axe were used. Any metal thing around a chainsaw makes me cringe.
Another way, and I think I may have tried it on a small tree, HELP ME REAL FALLERS
is to put in the back cut first, then front, and wedge it over some way. I think I did it and got my saw stuck and had to get help from a too excited friend. We got the tree down so maybe it is best not to do. Oh wait, that was what a logger said to do after I told him about getting my saw stuck and having problems.He said it was a good way to get our small maples down. He said our maples are tricky and the small ones are prone to setting back. I think I got it now.
So, the back cut first, then undercut is the way he said is best for our small maples. Got it.
That video method looks easier though. I wonder how it would work in small alder? Small Doug-fir?
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