Need help I’m stumped 031av flooding issue.

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rapozokurt

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what’s up y’all, first time on the forum. I have an 031av that I’ve been working on for months. It has a flooding issue, so I rebuilt the original walbro carb and still floods and the metering level looks perfect. So I bought a dukes aftermarket carb for it, still floods. Has a lot of compression by pulling on it. Impulse line was cracked so I replaced it and it still floods. Took the whole saw apart to pressure test it and no leaks coming for either seal or anywhere. Muffler isn’t clogged up or anything. Has strong spark. Points look new. I’m really frustrated and ready to throw this thing in the rubbish ha. I take the spark plug out and dry it and pull on the cord to unflood it and then try to start it and it runs for a brief 1-2 seconds then floods out.
 
Did you pressure test the carb(s)?
What happens when you remove the carb, pour a bit of fuel in the cylinder and start it?
Did you use a spark tester with adjustable gap? Maybe the spark just looks strong, but really isn't.
Did you try a different plug?
Did you check if the spark is on time? If your flywheel key sheared, the strongest spark won't make the thing fire.
 
Did you pressure test the carb(s)?
What happens when you remove the carb, pour a bit of fuel in the cylinder and start it?
Did you use a spark tester with adjustable gap? Maybe the spark just looks strong, but really isn't.
Did you try a different plug?
Did you check if the spark is on time? If your flywheel key sheared, the strongest spark won't make the thing fire.
Pressure tested Both carbs the needles are sealing and no leaks from gaskets. It has a new spark plug. I didn’t know the spark needed to be on time. Flywheel key looks fine. How do I see if the spark is on time ?
 
Pressure tested Both carbs the needles are sealing and no leaks from gaskets. It has a new spark plug. I didn’t know the spark needed to be on time. Flywheel key looks fine. How do I see if the spark is on time ?
If the plug doesn't fire at TDC, you won't get proper ignition. The points are adjustable, but only a bit, so I'd say it should fire even if it's not perfect.
I would try without a carb, with just a splash of fuel into the inlet. If it doesn't fire that way, I think you have an ignition problem.
 
If the plug doesn't fire at TDC, you won't get proper ignition. The points are adjustable, but only a bit, so I'd say it should fire even if it's not perfect.
I would try without a carb, with just a splash of fuel into the inlet. If it doesn't fire that way, I think you have an ignition problem.
If I
If the plug doesn't fire at TDC, you won't get proper ignition. The points are adjustable, but only a bit, so I'd say it should fire even if it's not perfect.
I would try without a carb, with just a splash of fuel into the inlet. If it doesn't fire that way, I think you have an ignition problem.
should I just do a electronic conversion ? The cylinder is getting gas but too much, flooding.
 
If I remember right, timing 2.1 mm before TDC. I think I still have the gauge for the sparkplug hole. There may also be a mark on the flywheel and the case to line up. Pitted points and bad condensers do odd things to spark.
So, is the carb flooding or do we have a spark issue?
Shut the high and low needles down and see if it starts and/or the plug still gets wet.
Electronic conversion? Did many in the past. Does take the points and condenser out of the equation.
 
If I remember right, timing 2.1 mm before TDC. I think I still have the gauge for the sparkplug hole. There may also be a mark on the flywheel and the case to line up. Pitted points and bad condensers do odd things to spark.
So, is the carb flooding or do we have a spark issue?
Shut the high and low needles down and see if it starts and/or the plug still gets wet.
Electronic conversion? Did many in the past. Does take the points and condenser out of the equation.
It’s flooding no matter
I'd corner the problem before firing the parts cannon (what a great expression).
Try @stihltech suggestion first.
 
What is your starting procedure? Do you get the choke off as soon as it fires or are you trying to get it to start and run with the choke on? Are you setting the carb to fast idle to provide a partially open throttle?
Don't get sidetracked by timing issues, if it starts and runs for a few seconds before "flooding out" there is probably nothing wrong with timing or ignition.
Does that saw have a "primer" bulb? If the check valves in the bulb are defective or if it is plumbed backwards, it can cause flooding. Eliminate it by blocking the tube from the carb to the bulb.
If flooding is the real basic problem it should be easy to solve.
 
What is your starting procedure? Do you get the choke off as soon as it fires or are you trying to get it to start and run with the choke on? Are you setting the carb to fast idle to provide a partially open throttle?
Don't get sidetracked by timing issues, if it starts and runs for a few seconds before "flooding out" there is probably nothing wrong with timing or ignition.
Does that saw have a "primer" bulb? If the check valves in the bulb are defective or if it is plumbed backwards, it can cause flooding. Eliminate it by blocking the tube from the carb to the bulb.
If flooding is the real basic problem it should be easy to solve.
Choke on until it pops then choke off like every other tool I have. There’s no primer bulb.
 
Next time it floods pull the fuel line off the carb and pressure test the carb fuel inlet. Should hold 10psi indefinitely.
I had a flooding issues with my other 028, that problem was the metering level kept moving too high. This one is not the case.
 
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