Need Help Identifying MCculloch Chainsaw
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Looks a lot like a MCCULLOCH 740. There is a plate under the carb that you can get the numbers and get a positive ID. Usually the problem you have to take the carb off to get to them.
altatim
ArboristSite Operative
Looks like it says right on the bottom. 1-45 or something similar.
Im not familiar With McCulloch So I Wasn’t Sure How To Read Them Numbers,Thank You
Thanks I’ll Take It Off And See
It is a 1-45. The basic cylinder block could have been made into a 1-42 or 1-45 but that one got the 1-45 treatment. Better for you as the 1-45 has bearings in the piston (1-42 is just a bushing) and many 1-42 models did not include the lower brace. 80cc, manual oiler only.
Most of the 1-45 models came with the Walbro/MAC flatback carburetors. While they are a bit different, I think they actually perform better than the Tillotson HL counterparts. The flatback is a bit more sensitive to adjustments, and the primers often leak...
Mark
Most of the 1-45 models came with the Walbro/MAC flatback carburetors. While they are a bit different, I think they actually perform better than the Tillotson HL counterparts. The flatback is a bit more sensitive to adjustments, and the primers often leak...
Mark
It's a 1-45 Mac.
A series of those Macs about same on parts/pieces.
1-40's, 1-50's, 250's.
Heavy saws, low speed, lots of torque, I've got some that I play with. I only use them after a log is down on the ground.
Just set the saw on top of the log and let the big 404 chain and weight of the saw do the cutting. Can drink a cup of coffee while it's cutting.
I converted the finelky flat back carbs to the Tillotson carb.
They have a sound of their own.
Does yours start and run?? Parts can be found on flea bay and some at chainsawr.com. I have a SERVICE manual that covers most all of them.
I have a 1-43 that has OEM owners manual and it's a low hour saw with the OEM chain and bar. Hard to start coming out of storage if you don't know their recipe for a cold start. (for most all of them series)
Mark Heimannm in the above post is the resident expert on Mac's. He helped me get mine going as I got experience with them.
A series of those Macs about same on parts/pieces.
1-40's, 1-50's, 250's.
Heavy saws, low speed, lots of torque, I've got some that I play with. I only use them after a log is down on the ground.
Just set the saw on top of the log and let the big 404 chain and weight of the saw do the cutting. Can drink a cup of coffee while it's cutting.
I converted the finelky flat back carbs to the Tillotson carb.
They have a sound of their own.
Does yours start and run?? Parts can be found on flea bay and some at chainsawr.com. I have a SERVICE manual that covers most all of them.
I have a 1-43 that has OEM owners manual and it's a low hour saw with the OEM chain and bar. Hard to start coming out of storage if you don't know their recipe for a cold start. (for most all of them series)
Mark Heimannm in the above post is the resident expert on Mac's. He helped me get mine going as I got experience with them.
Hello Okie, I recently acquired a 250 but don't know very much about it. I assume it is older than my 795, is that correct? Do you know what years the 250 was produced, and is there a way to tell the actual year my saw was made? If you have the manual in digital, that would be a great help. If so, could you post a link please, thanks
Thanks For All The Great Info There,The Saw Is In Really Great Shape And Was Sold At A Local Dealer Here Close To Me According To A Sticker Thats On It,I Cleaned It All Up Good But I Have No Spark So I’ll Have To Try And Sand The Points And See If That Does It,I Appreciate Your Knowledge
Thank You,Haven’t Got It To Run Yet ,Has A Spark Issue But Cylinder ,Gas Tank And Everything Is Super Clean,These Macs Are Different To Work On Than What I’m Used To But I’m Havin Fun Learning
heimannm might know but when they were made is not very important. All are old.Hello Okie, I recently acquired a 250 but don't know very much about it. I assume it is older than my 795, is that correct? Do you know what years the 250 was produced, and is there a way to tell the actual year my saw was made? If you have the manual in digital, that would be a great help. If so, could you post a link please, thanks
If you are going to play/repair with the 1-40's - 250's and more you might check and see if chainsawr still has for sale the downloadable MAC SERVICE manual for those saws.
They had such priced very reasonable few years ago. I got such and then sent it too a DVD or CD disk (can use even if computer crashes) and when I'm working on a Mac I can just print the info I need. Several models of the Mac's and the Service sections are from the Mac service manuals.
chainsawr is also a good place to review and look at McCulloch parts, pieces, get parts numbers and then search and they sometimes list all the models that their part interchanges with.
You have to keep a heads up on some places like for example fleece bay that list the parts as VINTAGE and jack up the price.
You mention sanding the points. Sandpaper is not a good idea for points.
NEW Points and condenser is not easy to find for those models at a reasonable price. Heimannm might have some parts?
I keep a Nova or Atom chip around to sub for points just to see if I then get spark. Saves pulling the flywheel at first. I do not use the chip as a permanent fix.
Filing and re-adjusting really old worn out pitted points is usually just a temporary fix for me and most generally is not a good thing for me. Kinda like peeing into the wind.
NOS points are easy, 50076 or 88806, I have plenty @ $5.95/set.
Condensers are harder to find, I do have a stock of good used units if that becomes a problem.
Mark
Condensers are harder to find, I do have a stock of good used units if that becomes a problem.
Mark
Thanks, I'll follow up with chainsawr
Test with the kill switch wire disconnected. Also look at the kill switch wire. Old insulation sometimes breaks off.
The NOVA chip I mentioned just replaces the points/condenser EXTERNALLY outside the flywheel.
The ATOM chip I mentioned are NLA as new. they were really good and color coded for their intended use. I tried using the NOVA chips in some of the old Mac and they were not reliable, sometimes out of time and might run good for day or two and all at once the saw chip fail. I just use them to sub for the points and condenser to see if I get a spark when I have no spark, not intended to get a run. The $20 type that can reverse the polarity is good for testing USUALLY.
The NOVA chip I mentioned just replaces the points/condenser EXTERNALLY outside the flywheel.
The ATOM chip I mentioned are NLA as new. they were really good and color coded for their intended use. I tried using the NOVA chips in some of the old Mac and they were not reliable, sometimes out of time and might run good for day or two and all at once the saw chip fail. I just use them to sub for the points and condenser to see if I get a spark when I have no spark, not intended to get a run. The $20 type that can reverse the polarity is good for testing USUALLY.
