Need some help with a log splitter.....

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Frog

Rubber fitting in picture between pump and engine ? Frog ? hmmm Lovejoy coupling... and rubber insert called a ''Spider''..never heard of it called a frog but who knows, it might
 
Rubber fitting in picture between pump and engine ? Frog ? hmmm Lovejoy coupling... and rubber insert called a ''Spider''..never heard of it called a frog but who knows, it might


Kydan,

It could be called a "Spider" - at least this woman didn't call it a "rubber thing-a-ma-jiggy"... :) I am MUCH better at tool names - not good at all at part names. :)

Shari
 
I think ya' did a great job so far. Northern tool should have that part. You shouldn't have to remove engine just the coupling . probaby a hex set screw.
 
I think ya' did a great job so far. Northern tool should have that part. You shouldn't have to remove engine just the coupling . probaby a hex set screw.

Yep, there should be two on each coupler, if you can't get enough room with moving just one, loosen the other one as well. Then line up the marks on the shafts when reassembling.
It's hard to determine from the picture how deteriorated that hose is. If it fells soft and spongy, I would recommend replacing it if it causes you concern. Most likely it will be working long after we are not, but then again? It does not have to be high pressure, it's a suction hose. The hyd place will know what that means. It's a heavy hose with a wire core to prevent collapsing. Not terribly expensive and I would recommend the new style clamps if you do go that route. They work MUCH better!
As for the hoses running underneath, unless you are traversing rough ground with humps, bumps, and the possibility of catching or tearing them on something. Which you have not yet, I would leave them be.
 
Kydan,

It could be called a "Spider" - at least this woman didn't call it a "rubber thing-a-ma-jiggy"... :) I am MUCH better at tool names - not good at all at part names. :)

Shari
Shari,
I don't know how far you are from Farm and Fleet in Oak Creek, but they should have the rubber "spider" couplings.
I get mine at a local Fleet Farm which is almost the same store.
Jim
 
Kydan - We already checked at Northern and they do not have the size we need on the shelves. Now that I know the name of the part ("Spider" and Lovejoy coupling), maybe I can find the correct size in their catalogue.

sawinredneck - I just checked that suction hose again and can't tell if there is any wire core to it but it seems firm when I try to squeeze it. Interesting - there is a splice connector in this hose 1/2 way between the two ends. One end of the hose is probably 2" i.d. and the other end is probably 1-1/2" i.d. so the splice connector is also a reducer.

beerman6 - You said Grainger sells Lovejoy couplings - would there be a part number or some other identifing mark on this spider or the coupling itself somewhere?

PS All you guys are great to help me out with this! One of our son's IS mechanically inclined but lives 4 hrs. away from us without internet access. Hubby taught him mechanics and he was an eager learner - then he married, moved and took all his skills (and some of our tools :cry:) with him.

Shari
 
When you replace the spider,take out the bolts connecting the pump to the mounting bracket,then just pull the pump free and change the spider.Reassemble in the reverse order.Should be a lot easier to do and you don't have to try to get the coupling to move on the shaft. Scott
 
The spider is an LO75 Lovejoy Coupler Insert.
You can order them from Grainger. They offer them in Buna, Hytrel, and Polyureathane. For a 5HP motor use the Buna. For 6hp+ use the poly or hytrel.
 
Don't worry about the small hyd. tank unless you're going commercial with that unit - Mine did 10+ cord/year for 25 years on that setup. Didier used hosebarb connectors for the suction line, I found 5/8" heater hose worked fine, lasted about 5 years before it got squishy.
 
Success! I only did one split so far.

18" round, 19-1/2" long

success.jpg



One, only one, remaining question (I promise): I could not remove the hyd. connection from the butt end of the cylinder, therefore I could not add fluid there. I made sure the tank was 90% full, extended the ram slowly on the first run, topped off the tank again, retracted the ram and topped off the tank again. Tell me fellas, did I do this right?

Shari
 
connection

You do not need to take anything loose on the cyl. just fill the tank, fire it up cycle it back and forth a couple of times. it will bleed the air out of the cyl itself. You may need to add oil to the tank as the cyl fills, just run it and check fill as needed. Just be sure to check the tank when the cyl is retracted, that is all that you need to do.
Have fun with your splitter.
 
You did fine - Any air still in there will work it's way out by extending & retracting the cly to it's limits a few times. Here's a few pics. of my Didier, it started out the same as yours, but kind of did a "transformers" thing over the years.
sp4.jpg
One good thing was getting it up waist high, but then you need a log lift, so then a bigger tank.
sp1.jpg
The 'woodcatcher' grate on the front is one of the easiest, cheapest, labor saving things you can add.
 
Shari, It's really not a problem helping you!

Success! I only did one split so far.

18" round, 19-1/2" long

success.jpg



One, only one, remaining question (I promise): I could not remove the hyd. connection from the butt end of the cylinder, therefore I could not add fluid there. I made sure the tank was 90% full, extended the ram slowly on the first run, topped off the tank again, retracted the ram and topped off the tank again. Tell me fellas, did I do this right?

Shari

Keep asking questions! It makes us feel useful helping a woman in need. Tongue and cheek comet!


Great job!:clap::clap:
 
Success! I only did one split so far.

18" round, 19-1/2" long

success.jpg



One, only one, remaining question (I promise): I could not remove the hyd. connection from the butt end of the cylinder, therefore I could not add fluid there. I made sure the tank was 90% full, extended the ram slowly on the first run, topped off the tank again, retracted the ram and topped off the tank again. Tell me fellas, did I do this right?

Shari

Yes Shari you did it right. If the cylinder was in all the way it wouldnt hold much fluid anyway. So by topping it off like you did it made up for the little oil that had to fill the space. Great job. Now youve got that big pile of wood to split and test out your handywork. :cheers:
 
Don't feel ashamedabout asking anything!! It's the only way to know.
Glad it's working for you.
 
Hey, fellas, thanks so much for all the encouragement and good directions! I couldn't have done this without all your help. :yourock:

I don't want to get going on the wood I have because that spider should really, really be replaced before any kind of heavy use. I am going to call Grainger on Monday to see if they have the part. Hopefully, I won't have to come back here for more help on that. :)

Thanks again, fellas! You are FANTASTIC!

PS Anyone want to start a Didier sub group on AS? :)

Shari (& hubby, too!)
 
log lift

You did fine - Any air still in there will work it's way out by extending & retracting the cly to it's limits a few times. Here's a few pics. of my Didier, it started out the same as yours, but kind of did a "transformers" thing over the years.
sp4.jpg
One good thing was getting it up waist high, but then you need a log lift, so then a bigger tank.
sp1.jpg
The 'woodcatcher' grate on the front is one of the easiest, cheapest, labor saving things you can add.


I can't see what you have to work the log lift, is it hyd lifted or do you do it with man power.

Joe
 
You did fine - Any air still in there will work it's way out by extending & retracting the cly to it's limits a few times. Here's a few pics. of my Didier, it started out the same as yours, but kind of did a "transformers" thing over the years.
sp4.jpg
One good thing was getting it up waist high, but then you need a log lift, so then a bigger tank.
sp1.jpg
The 'woodcatcher' grate on the front is one of the easiest, cheapest, labor saving things you can add.
Dam is that my suggestion to run a 20lb Propane tank for a oil tank?
This is a great thread to help out!
 

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