Need your advice on trailer design

[zogger]

Torflex axles , last a lifetime , never have to deal with springs , hangers , worn bolts or bushings .

Quite interesting, just looked at their youtube vid. So, do you just buy full replacement axles, or what, say if you already have a small trailer?

 

[dancan]

You'd have to weld in some mounting brackets .

 

[stihly dan]

some pics maybe?

 

[stihly dan]

 

[stihly dan]

 

[stihly dan]

After a long wait its coming along quickly. should be done by the time the snow melts and scrounging is in high gear.

 

[brenndatomu]

So what exactly did you decide to build? 'Cause from the pics it looks like an ordinary "car hauler" type trailer. Care to elaborate on the "custom" stuff that is not so obvious at first glance?

 

[stihly dan]

So what exactly did you decide to build? 'Cause from the pics it looks like an ordinary "car hauler" type trailer. Care to elaborate on the "custom" stuff that is not so obvious at first glance?

That's about what it is. Ordinary. Only difference is it is built stronger than a store bought one. The deck is also as wide as the outer edges of the fenders. Because it is free labor, there will be 4 coats of black rustoleum.

 

[brenndatomu]

That's about what it is. Ordinary. Only difference is it is built stronger than a store bought one. The deck is also as wide as the outer edges of the fenders. Because it is free labor, there will be 4 coats of black rustoleum.

Make sure they do good prep before paint. Grind/sand as needed, wipe all surfaces with MEK (if they will use that, or paint thinner if not) use a good primer, and then the paint. I have not been too impressed with these new "primer and paint" all in one formulas BTW. Paint is one of those "you get what you pay for" items and even then it is still all about a proper prep job. My brother found a brand of spray paint at our local NAPA store that will lay down like a factory baked on finish if prepped correctly. It's about $12-$15 per can though

 

[stihly dan]

Just dropped of 1 12,000 lb drop leg jack and 2 8,000 lb drop legs jacks for the rear. Although now I'm thinking of grabbing another 12,000 for the front, 1 on each side that are controlled by 1 arm. this way the none tipping trailer can be a tipping trailer. And a special thanks to @ValleyFirewood and @Locust Cutter for this idea. On a bad note, I did find out today that the box incorporated into the tongue is a no go. Welding instructor thinks its best to have a middle support rail as well. so it will have to be a purchased box on top.

 

[stihly dan]

Added another 12,000 lb jack. And having them weld in a support for the 1,000lb hydraulic hoist To be mounted. Here is a pic with the extra wide sides done. Stake pockets and rub rail almost done.

 

[Locust Cutter]

Stihly,
I hadn't thought about the middle support stringer for the tongue so that's a good call on his part. The trailer I had seen the in-tongue box on was a 14k trailer with HEAVY duty either I-beam or box member (IDK) for the tongue... It didn't need any help. Either way, it's looking good and I'm envious of the fabrication skills... If i's not too rude, would you mind either in here or in pm telling me about how much you have wrapped up into this venture?

 

[stihly dan]

Stihly,
I hadn't thought about the middle support stringer for the tongue so that's a good call on his part. The trailer I had seen the in-tongue box on was a 14k trailer with HEAVY duty either I-beam or box member (IDK) for the tongue... It didn't need any help. Either way, it's looking good and I'm envious of the fabrication skills... If i's not too rude, would you mind either in here or in pm telling me about how much you have wrapped up into this venture?[/QUOTE

The trailer frame is a 2X6 fully boxed rolled steel. So far I have $3,000 into it for the axles and metal. Another $450 for the jacks all 4. I should be into this for less than $4,000 when done.

 

[brenndatomu]

Can't a box be built "around" or maybe on-top-of the hitch frame?

 

[Locust Cutter]

Yes you could, but you could likely buy an aluminum truncated triangle box with lock a lot cheaper than fabricating one. It would also be much more corrosion resistant than steel, except for the possibility of the galvanic corrosion where the aluminum and steel would meet if there were no rubber grommets or pads to separate them.

 

[stihly dan]

Can't a box be built "around" or maybe on-top-of the hitch frame?

Yes, but in the frame would have given more room less space taken up. There will be some sort of box there, just not in the opening. I have to pop in to make sure the lights, have reverse lights.

 

[les-or-more]

Not to argue (it's your trailer) but I'd weld it to the platform. The tongue, unless it's made out of the same material thickness of the frame, won't hold as much weight as the frame box will (plus it's further out and is only affixed by welds usually and has a greater disadvantage by the weight arm). If you mount it against the frame box, you can the have the real-estate to mount a locking, angular tool box for chains, boomers and other misc equipment... I'm not trying to be rude in the least, but since you have a golden opportunity to build the near "perfect" trailer I think you'd regret mounting the jack forward on the tongue in the long run.

When you put the chain box in the tongue it creates another, the drop leg is underneath. It is amazing how the trailer can get unhooked in a puddle so you get wet crawling under to pick the drop leg up. The jack is easier to place just behind the coupler, get a short ball mount and drop the gate on the truck before its final location, then give it another inch or two. Then you are covered for the majority of vehicles to drop tailgates when hooked up without hitting the jack.

 

[les-or-more]

Like this one.

 

[CUCV]

Not sure if they have built the tongue but I like it about 5 1/2' long opposed to the 4' that many trailer mfg like to build them. I prefer the jack to be mounted between the deck and ball. If it's close to the ball like in the a-frame couplers its tough to open the tail gate and if its close to the deck I feel cramped with certain items on the deck. I often put my excavator bucket up in the wire mesh chain storage area. Also I like round tube welded in between stake pockets for tie down points.

 

[Locust Cutter]

I guess (not that it's truly needed) but I'd like a pair pf 3-4K drop-leg jack mounted on the outward edges, akin to a GN trailer. Then the the handle could be on the side, with a box or chain tray in the tongue and the drop-legs would be easily accessible.