• If you have bought, sold or gained information from our Classifieds, please donate to Arborsist Site and give back.

    You can become a Supporting Member which comes with a decal or just click here to donate.

Want to Buy Needed, Good saws or easily fixable larger CC chainsaws.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I don't know how well the 357 is built but on an 034 super when it was the only saw I had I put an 24-25 3/8 pitch inch bar on it to cut an large white oak tree that yielded about 3 full cords of 16 inch firewood and it didn't hurt it a bit. Didn't continue using it long after cause it was a bit underpowered in large wood which concerned me mostly when falling large trees. At work was running short on 20 inch bars and I put an 24 inch 3/8 solid nose bar on another 034 super and cut mostly Black and pin oak trees into firewood in the 20 inch diameter range , some larger. No problems. Under 20 inches it ate it up at a comfortable pace. (White oak is harder)
For what reason wouldn't a 357 work decently with 24 inch?
 
I don't know how well the 357 is built but on an 034 super when it was the only saw I had I put an 24-25 3/8 pitch inch bar on it to cut an large white oak tree that yielded about 3 full cords of 16 inch firewood and it didn't hurt it a bit. Didn't continue using it long after cause it was a bit underpowered in large wood which concerned me mostly when falling large trees. At work was running short on 20 inch bars and I put an 24 inch 3/8 solid nose bar on another 034 super and cut mostly Black and pin oak trees into firewood in the 20 inch diameter range , some larger. No problems. Under 20 inches it ate it up at a comfortable pace. (White oak is harder)
For what reason wouldn't a 357 work decently with 24 inch?
Comparing a 034 super to a 357 isn't apples to apples. 61 vs 56cc for starters. Your other observation is admittedly flawed, you're cutting 16-20" wood, then go on to say it's not great above 20". the 357 like to kept in higher rpm for optimal performance, id even go as far to say they arnt a saw that has great torque in mid and lower rpm range. I am a big fan of them, as they are very dependable saws, but running that 24" bar without a good operator will kill it in short order.
 
a hybrid building would be a better option power wise. Just thinking practicality for your situation. Don't need a good saw over loaded/abused, since it's going to be loaned out. I sincerely wish you the best of luck with your circumstances.
I found a 18” bar and chain for the 357 but I’m happy to have the 24” that David gave me. I know that it will be put to use in one way or another especially at these times.
 
In emergency situations people use what they can get their hands on to get the job done, these folksare not looking to run saws every day doing production work. I'd suggest a couple 2 in 1 files, even the cheap generic ones to keep the chains somewhat sharpish on the loaned ones because thats the most likely reason for failure by the inexperienced.

Wht are you still needing?
 
I thought about a cheap harbor freight grinder to keep the chains reasonably sharp in short order.
Folks not accustomed to using saws tend to hit the ground a lot, I'd imagine.
Don't know if they have a power source for the grinder though.
 
I am still in need of a top handle saw several people have learners and I’ve been climbing them but my smallest saw is one of the ms170’s but a handheld is what I really need. I have a pretty well complete crankcase for a husqvarna ts540 xp but need the tank assembly, carb top handle and trigger air filter cover and sprocket cover.
Yeah I have a small chain sharpener but only cuts one direction. Still could use some mix, bar oil, a top cover and air filter for a 357xp. Some plugs, various carburetor kits, fuel line etc. I’m try to fix a ts400 for the fire department missing a coil flywheel cover, top handle trigger assembly top molding, air filter cover, operator lockout lever, kill switch knob and a carrying handle.
 
Comparing a 034 super to a 357 isn't apples to apples. 61 vs 56cc for starters. Your other observation is admittedly flawed, you're cutting 16-20" wood, then go on to say it's not great above 20". the 357 like to kept in higher rpm for optimal performance, id even go as far to say they arnt a saw that has great torque in mid and lower rpm range. I am a big fan of them, as they are very dependable saws, but running that 24" bar without a good operator will kill it in short order.
I don't understand how you get my post flawed. The first tree I cut I was referring to 16 inch lengths of fire wood, near 3 ish full cords, 1 tree. A lot of cuts is hard work for the size saw, in other words was referring to it never hurt the saw. The white oak tree was actually close to 30 inches in diameter for several feet up. The other identical saw was cutting 20 inch trees and larger, the point was it got the job done, never hurt the saw, power and speed felt satisfactory in 20 inch black oak species other then falling some that size.
Didn't know there was a 5cc difference or that the 357 would be that delicate with a 24 inch bar, never had 1 , that's why I asked for comparison. If that was my biggest saw I would not let just anyone use it.
 
I don't understand how you get my post flawed. The first tree I cut I was referring to 16 inch lengths of fire wood, near 3 ish full cords, 1 tree. A lot of cuts is hard work for the size saw, in other words was referring to it never hurt the saw. The white oak tree was actually close to 30 inches in diameter for several feet up. The other identical saw was cutting 20 inch trees and larger, the point was it got the job done, never hurt the saw, power and speed felt satisfactory in 20 inch black oak species other then falling some that size.
Didn't know there was a 5cc difference or that the 357 would be that delicate with a 24 inch bar, never had 1 , that's why I asked for comparison. If that was my biggest saw I would not let just anyone use it.
"If that was my biggest saw I would not let just anyone use it."
That was the point.
 
I am still in need of a top handle saw several people have learners and I’ve been climbing them but my smallest saw is one of the ms170’s but a handheld is what I really need. I have a pretty well complete crankcase for a husqvarna ts540 xp but need the tank assembly, carb top handle and trigger air filter cover and sprocket cover.
Yeah I have a small chain sharpener but only cuts one direction. Still could use some mix, bar oil, a top cover and air filter for a 357xp. Some plugs, various carburetor kits, fuel line etc. I’m try to fix a ts400 for the fire department missing a coil flywheel cover, top handle trigger assembly top molding, air filter cover, operator lockout lever, kill switch knob and a carrying handle.
check with Alex for any cut-off saw stuff.
https://www.arboristsite.com/members/alexcagle.59529/
 
I found a 18” bar and chain for the 357 but I’m happy to have the 24” that David gave me. I know that it will be put to use in one way or another especially at these times.
run full skip on it if the only thing you have is a 24. 18-20, however, is about the limit on that saw, frankly.
 
Where would you Guys get a good 357xp cylinder kit? Is the hyway nicasil purple box any good the oem one I picked up must’ve been cleaned up too much because it destroyed my piston and wasn’t holding much compression. Can’t afford a new oem and just need it going @dboyd351 sent me a nice few saws extra bars a few new ones and chains. Can’t wait to get out there again tomorrow and try them out. Thank you Don you are an amazing person.
 
Where would you Guys get a good 357xp cylinder kit? Is the hyway nicasil purple box any good the oem one I picked up must’ve been cleaned up too much because it destroyed my piston and wasn’t holding much compression. Can’t afford a new oem and just need it going @dboyd351 sent me a nice few saws extra bars a few new ones and chains. Can’t wait to get out there again tomorrow and try them out. Thank you Don you are an amazing person.
Duke’s has their new hard chrome version now, $65 for the full kit,

I recently installed one of these kits into a run-over 390xp. Had to do some minor cleanup to both p&c but overall it seems to be working just fine.
These are recommended over Hyway and Meteor (cylinders) by one of the porters on OPE.
 
Where would you Guys get a good 357xp cylinder kit? Is the hyway nicasil purple box any good the oem one I picked up must’ve been cleaned up too much because it destroyed my piston and wasn’t holding much compression. Can’t afford a new oem and just need it going @dboyd351 sent me a nice few saws extra bars a few new ones and chains. Can’t wait to get out there again tomorrow and try them out. Thank you Don you are an amazing person.
order a meteor kit, slap on and go...not as potent as oem but it should last without work
 
The 357 isn't going to like a 24" bar. 18-20" would be more in uts wheel house. Should be .325 on it too, not 3/8 unless someone swapped out rims.
It won't be a problem on there, just need to keep the hook moderate, and adjust the rakers accordingly. I've run them on my stock or muffler modded 359's before and they cut okay, just like a 353 with a 20x325, not optimal, but with a properly tuned chain. The biggest thing with all the saws in that series, is making sure you run sharp chains and all the more if they have the plastic intake clamps.
But a ported 562 or 372 sure would be nice for the 24" setup:chainsaw:.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top