New 357xp

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moecoors

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Roblin,MB.CA
Hi folks,
Just bought a 357xp. What do I need for extras, if any? Any tips on this particular model? Iwill be cutting mostly poplar, jack pine, and birch.
Thanks
 
357

I should handle what you are doing just fine. It should also do well with a 18 in bar.:D :rock:
 
I should handle what you are doing just fine. It should also do well with a 18 in bar.:D :rock:

Yup, but 18" is about max, for good balance and power - if you are just crosscutting, it should be a very good saw......:rockn:

Btw, welcome here (to the madness)......:rockn: :rockn:
 
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If the forward corner on the cutter is square, or "pointed", and there is a small ramp in front of the rakers, it is a LP - if the ramp is absent, but the raker somewhat wide and rounded, it is an LG....

There are similar variations of semi-chisel, but I don't have any relationship to those.
 
Dunno why it can't run a 24" bar, my 361 will do it.

Try it you might like it ;)

My 372 can pull a bigger bar, but 20" is about right in hardwoods...
My 7900 will run a long bar, but 24" is awesome and my 066 can run a stupid long bar, but with a 28" it is a terror in hardwoods. I sometimes wish we had stupid huge softwoods to see what our saws would do with long bars, but hardwoods are a thing of beauty. 20" bar is standard logger issue in these parts with 460's and 660's....:rock:
 
Dunno why it can't run a 24" bar, my 361 will do it.

Try it you might like it ;)

I'm with you Ich, 24" bar on that saw in softwoods with 3/8 skip or semi-skip would do fine.

Moecoors, is that your only saw? If so, depending on the size of the trees you are cutting, a longer bar will make it more versatile. If you have a bigger saw, stick with the 18" bar and put an 8-pin sprocket on it for faster chain speed. Then, put a 28", 32", or longer bar on your bigger saw.
 
I'm with you Ich, 24" bar on that saw in softwoods with 3/8 skip or semi-skip would do fine.

Moecoors, is that your only saw? If so, depending on the size of the trees you are cutting, a longer bar will make it more versatile. If you have a bigger saw, stick with the 18" bar and put an 8-pin sprocket on it for faster chain speed. Then, put a 28", 32", or longer bar on your bigger saw.

Yeah that's my only saw. However the wood here is not large. Sometimes I buck green birch in the winter which is frozen rock hard. Other than that it's easy sawin.
 
Dunno why it can't run a 24" bar, my 361 will do it.

Try it you might like it ;)

User expectations.....:rockn: :rockn:

My 372 can pull a bigger bar, but 20" is about right in hardwoods...
My 7900 will run a long bar, but 24" is awesome and my 066 can run a stupid long bar, but with a 28" it is a terror in hardwoods. I sometimes wish we had stupid huge softwoods to see what our saws would do with long bars, but hardwoods are a thing of beauty. 20" bar is standard logger issue in these parts with 460's and 660's....:rock:

Right!!!!!

.....not allowed to rep you at the moment...:blob6: :blob6: :bang: :bang:
 
Hi folks,
Just bought a 357xp. What do I need for extras, if any? Any tips on this particular model? Iwill be cutting mostly poplar, jack pine, and birch.
Thanks

Did you get online or from a shop? My 357 had some trouble with the auto decompression set up.It now runs great with a manual button. My partners 357 maybe two years older than mine has been flawless.
We were removing a double leader Basswood tree today I was using a 357 w/ 72dl chain on the ground for flopping the leaders and the butt wood. I perfer using the saw with a 68dl setup.
 
It has'nt been mentioned but some PPE is a mighty fine idea. Helmet with hearing protestion, Chaps, and Gloves well worth the investment. Read any on-line packages carefully. I ordered a package from your home state and the gloves were'nt what I expected. They made it good for a slight additional fee, but I had to bit__ a little. Package I ordered is'nt offered any longer.
 

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